Paris 2019 – Day 18

We planned our day to avoid the Yellow Vest protests, or at least we figures we did based on their Facebook page.

On todays list; Sacré-Cœur, Montmartre, and the souvenir shoppes along Rue de Steinkerque, and  the Funicular.

We took the bus to the Franklin D. Roosevelt metro stop and then took the #2 line to Anvers, walked up the hill on Rue de Steinkerque where Pat and Shelley did some souvenir shopping while I watch the Slight-of-hand hustlers on the street.  It so interesting to watch the hustle and how they cheat even the winners. At the end of the street we mad a left turn on to Place Saint Pierre to the funicular and took it to the top of the hill where the Basilique du Sacré Cœur de Montmartre or just is located.  We walk around to the west to avoid the steps up to the cathedral.  We then headed for the Place du Tertre where local artists display there work and wandering artists will draw your photo or caricature for some Euros.

I was getting to be lunch time so we found a cafe with tables in the sun, Au Cadet De Gascogne rich on the square.  Everyone had a salad and a glass of wine, Pat opted for a beer. After lunch a a visit to the WC in the cafe we explored the remainder of the small area of Montmartre, excluding some of the out lying areas like the vineyards and the museum.  After some time we headed back down the hill to the metro when along came a parade of Yellow Vested vandals shouting and screaming and chanting about the injustices marching up Rue de Steinkerque  so we stood to the side and let them pass.  They were for the most part peaceful mostly because there was police everywhere dressed in riot gear, and at the top of Montmartre before we boarded the funicular for the ride down the were Gendarme’s in full Riot gear like

Le Coincidence at 15 rue Mesnil in the 16th arrondissement

something out of a terminator movie.  Back on the metro we made it as far as Villiers before the metro came to a stop and were were forced to get off, again because of security concern.  A bit of investigation and we found we found transfer to the #3 and then to the #9 to get back to the apartment.

Were in the apartment recovering and thinking about dinner.

A full breast of duck, medium rare, I took the photo after I started to eat dinner.

We decided to go to a restaurant recommended by Shelley’s sisters friend so we figured we would give it a try.  The restaurants name is Le Coincidence at 15 rue Mesnil which is off Place Visitor Hugo.  We stared with sharing a bowl of butternut squash and a plate of asparagus with poached egg and salad.  For our main course we all selected the the duck breast with and orange sauce, creamy mashed potatoes and mushrooms. We all thought the food was good, the owner and the staff were very nice and helpful.  If I only had one bad thing to say it is that they cater to an English speaking clientele, not a bad thing but we prefer French speaking restaurant where we have to some times struggle but we get a better description because translation can be a problem.  But if you would like not to struggle and have good food this may be a good choice.

Steps today =10,862 or 4.9 miles (-527 calories)

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Paris 2019 – Day 17

Club Sandwich Museum style

Today was the day for the Musee de Louvre at the east end of the Jardin des Tuileries.  We arrived at about 10 AM and the line was short so we entered through security and down to purchase our tickets.  Much to our surprise because Shelley was using a cane to walk her and an escort got in free.  So for three people we only had to buy 1 ticket, saving 34€. We wandered around the museum for hours, Pat and I have not been there in about 10 years, even though we have visited Paris often. The museum interior has changed a great deal, for the better, it’s still confusing with ½ floor especially because we were trying to use elevators as much as possible due to Shelley’s knees but we managed. We decided to have lunch in one of the museums cafes we choose Cafe Richelieu Angelina not for any special reason other than it was in the area where we were.  The food was OK for museum food, Pat had a Caesar Salad with chicken, Shelley a Croque Monsieur and I had a Club Sandwich, none of which were normal for Paris but we found them acceptable.

A few more hours and we headed home to put our feet up, ice Shelley’s Knee for a bit before we head over to La Cordonnerie for dinner. So far we have clocked about 5 miles.

On the way back to the apartment following a great dinner at La Cordonnerie we stop at Trocadero and got off the metro and waited for the Eiffel Tower to begin it 10 minutes of flashing which it does every hour on the hour from 9pm in the summer until 1am.  Winter hours are slightly longer.

Steps = 16,242 or 7.3 miles (-789 Calories)

 

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 16

After breakfast we stopped at the butcher shop before leaving the neighborhood and ordered and reserved a rotisserie chicken.  We headed to the Notre Dame because it was a sunny day we were able to get some photos or the stained glass windows which can only happen when the sun is shinning.  After wards we headed to Rue De La Cité to the flower market.  We were in the neighborhood of Saint Chapelle so we went by but decided not to go into the chapel because of the number of steps, Shelley thought she would have some trouble.  Next stop was saint Michel and the Latin Quarter.  It was time for a glass of wine anyway.  After a glass of wine we jumped on the bus and took it over to the Jardin Des Tuileries and sat for a bit and did some people watching, next stop Musee de l’Orangerie and Claude Monet’s water lilies.

Because we did not have lunch we headed back to the apartment for wine, cheese and some of the Terrine of Lapin (rabbit) we purchased at the Market on Wednesday.

We sat around and talked and I started dinner and at about 6:45 Pat waked up to the corner and picked up the chicken.  For dinner we had Rotisserie Chicken, Haricot Vert and sautéed potatoes with lardons and onions. Of course a baguette and wine.

 

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 15

We got up this morning, on the first day of Spring,  and showered because the water in the building was going off this morning from 0900 to 1200 hours due to some work in get e building.

We took Shelley to the President Wilson Marché, one of the largest in Paris, it was not extremely busy today which was great for looking “Je suit juste là pour retarder”.  Shelley found the market very interesting observing thing that were new to her.  She purchased a dress for her granddaughter Lily and a new pair of gloves.  So many of the stall residents speak English so this came in handy, Pat and I are usually troupers about our bad French but I think Shelley found the English mad things easier.  Pat purchased some Paris kitchen towels and some tulips I stoped at one of the stalls and bought some terrine of Lapin (rabbit) to go with our wine and cheese tonight.

Next be boarded the 52 bus and headed to the Arc de Triomphe so Shelley could view it after Pat read the history.  We then took a stroll down the Av. des Champe-Élysées. We were amazed at the amount of damage that was done by the protested over the last number of protests, they seem to really have it out for the HSBC bank, breaking windows and all of their ATMs

We stopped for wine, Cappachino and Onion Soup for Shelley at the Bistro des Champe. Tonight were going to go dinner at  Le Relais du Bois. We have been her before and they have great liver.Shelley ordered the oysters, not realizing they were raw she did not think  she liked raw oysters but with some lemon and  capers from  Pat’s salad she enjoyed them. She ordered the filet of  Beef with  béarnaise sauce. Pat when the sole and the tomato salad and I went for the carrot salad and the veal liver.

Carrot Salad

Tomato Salad

Sole

Fresh oysters

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 14

SHELLEY ARRIVES TODAY!

We were up at 0530, yes you read that correctly 0530.  We dressed and headed to the RER C at Boulevard Henri Martin, arrived at about  0550 but the train did not come until 0608 which put us a bit behind schedule especially based on the fact UALs site said the flight was to land 21 minutes early. Well; long story short we arrived Shelley was siting on a bench in the Aero Port Charles de Gaulle.  We collected Shelley and headed back to terminal 2 to get her a Navigo Découverte pass.  I had the forethought to bring along a photo for the pass.  We headed back to the apartment to get Shelley settled and for a breakfast of fresh fruit, croissant, croissant aux almond, and a apple puree in puff pastry.  In addition I purchased a loaf of Brioche for breakfast tomorrow.

Cafe Gambetta

We decided to make it an easy day for Shelley so we took the 63 bus over to Iéne and transfer to the 82 bus to the Eiffel Tower (Champ de Mar) and got on the 69 bus to Gambetta, we read about this in one of Rick Steve’s books years ago it is a cheap way to see a large section of Paris all the way to the 20th Arrondissement.  We got off the bus at the end and stopped at le Cafe Gambetta for a glass of wine.  Shelley created a new rule if we stop for wine she pays, so what’s not to like about that rule?  After wine we when in search for the 69 bus stop back to central Paris, due to construction is was moved with limited directions.  We found the stop and boarded the bus and were headed back when the bus stopped about 8 stops from the end due to, you guessed it another protest!  Not sure whether or not it was the Yellow Vests but in anywise off the bus!  We walked back to the River and got the 63 bus back to Passy.  One in the neighborhood we did our nightly shopping, vegetables from the fruit market, a traditional baguette from La Pompadour, fish from Amand Vanhomme, cheese from the Fromagerie on Rue de la Pompe, a 30 month old Comté, some Reblochan and some Mobier** and then a quick stop at the Fran Prix for eggs.

Morbier is a semi-soft cows’ milk cheese of France named after the small village of Morbier in Franche-Comté. It is ivory colored, soft and slightly elastic, and is immediately recognizable by the distinctive thin black layer separating it horizontally in the middle. It has a rind that is yellowish, moist, and leathery.Traditionally, the cheese consists of a layer of morning milk and a layer of evening milk. When making Comté, cheesemakers would end the day with leftover curd that was not enough for an entire cheese. Thus, they would press the remaining evening curd into a mold, and spread ash over it to protect it overnight. The following morning, the cheese would be topped up with morning milk. Nowadays, the cheese is usually made from a single milking with the traditional ash line replaced by vegetable dye.
So look for true ask line.

Now back at the apparat I put out the cheese, opened a bottle of Cote du Rhône and sliced some of yesterdays bread.  Shelley when to take bath while I made dinner of fish, green peas and garlic smashed potatoes.

Tomorrow the water goes off at 0900 until 12 so we prepared for coffee, etc.

We are all going to bed early due to the early morning and Shelley has been up for 24 hours plus.  She is a trouper!

Tomorrow President Wilson Marché

Steps = 8,629 or 3.9 miles (-419 calories)

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Paris 2019 – Day 13

We decided to take a walk around Passy to do a little window shopping.  We walk down Rue de la Pompe and wandered around, not many shop are open on Monday but only the food purveyor close up their windows so there is always plenty to see.  Pat’s looking for a new French purse or what ever it’s called these days but alas the hunt continues.

Paris’ 16th arrondissement has to be one of the most overlooked areas in the city – partly because it is tucked away in the west corner of town, and partly because it has a reputation for snobbery. It’s true that its inhabitants are moneyed: You just have to look at the posh cars, chic art-nouveau apartment blocks and designer-suited locals carrying luxury shopping bags to understand that. But this is also one the city’s most authentic areas – especially around Passy where, off the beaten tourist track, you’ll find luscious eateries, cools cafés, and atmospheric old village lanes.

Start on rue de l’Annonciation, a cute and cobbled pedestrian street – home to Aux Merveilleux de Fred. If you’re into meringue, this patissier might just be your idea of heaven: Merveilleux are gigantic meringues layered with cream and chocolate, rolled in white and dark chocolate flakes. Next head to the corner of rue Bois le Vent, where Passy’s colourful covered market (Tue-Sun) is perfect for filling up a picnic basket. If you fancy a spot of shopping, head along rue de Passy to Franck & Fils, a rather exclusive department store (80 rue de Passy; www.francketfils.fr). Or get cultural at the bottom of Passy’s hillside at the Musée du Vin, where you can go wine-tasting after your visit. The museum is also a reminder that for centuries, Passy was (like Montmartre and Belleville) a wine-growing area. Louis XIII even used to stop off for a drink here on his way home from hunting in the Bois de Boulogne.
If you’re into literature, head back up the hill to visit the Maison de Balzac, the house where Honoré de Balzac wrote his enlightened Comedie Humaine (1840-1847), while dodging tax collectors. Then end your tour by paying tribute to three of history’s most famous composers – Claude Debussy, Gabriel Fauré and George Mandel – who are buried in the charming Cimétière de Passy (Place du Trocadéro) – a peaceful place to stroll after a busy day.

After our walk we were back at the apartment to add water to the Tulips and a quick WC break, then on the bus and across the river to the Eiffel Tower and then a couple of bus rides to see if we can find alternate routes that are convenient for out Friday night dinner engagements at La Cordonnerie.

Some Fruit, wine and cheese shopping and a baguette and back to the apartment for wine and dinner prep.

Step to day = 9,490 or 4.3 miles (-461 calories)

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Paris 2019 – Day 12(Sunday)

Cleaning day, hard to believe we have been here almost 2 weeks so we arranged for the mid-stay cleaning before Shelley arrives on Tuesday.  We had our coffee and croissants and were out the door by 9:30.  Our plan for the day was to visit two or three markets. Sunday markets are usually small so we set our expectation accordingly.

There was a bit of confusion during the planning phase, it seemed when I made the list I mixed up some Saturday and Sunday market but were were able to make the adjustment as needed so our first market was Marché Alibert at  Rue Alibert, in front of Hôpital St-Louis, metro stop Goncourt in the 10th arrondissement.  The market was small only about 15 stalls but still had multiple vendors for fruits and vegetables and cheese.  The schuss vendor who also attends the President Wilson Market has a smaller stall.

 

The next market was out in the 12th the Marché BercyMarché Bercy at Place Lachambaudie, Metro: Cour St-Emilion on line 14 which is actually the newest metro line opened in 1998 and is a deep line with escalators and an elevator at each stop, we honestly can not recall being on the 14 so this may be another first..  After exiting the metro we saw a sign above brick arches, Bercy Village,  and we decided to investigate. We found a paved courtyard bordered with white stone storehouses and terraces.

Bercy-Village-Cour-Saint-Emilion-1-|-©-OTCP-Daniel-Thierry-|-188-33.jpg

Bercy Village established 2002

An architecture that combines stone with steel, wood and glass.
The Cour Saint-Emilion and its 42 storehouses, which are registered on the French supplementary Historic Monuments list, are all that remain of the Bercy storage areas where, for over a century, the largest wine market in the world was held.
Bercy is also a diverse area with shops, restaurants, leisure activities and entertainment spread over 26,000 square meters including Five Guys, Fnac, Va Piano, Sephora, Fragonard, Nature & Découvertes, Maje, Sandro and the UGC Ciné Cité cinema multiplex.
Open every day from 11am to 9pm (restaurants close at 2am)

The market was the amulets of all only about 7 stalls however all of the more important thing were covered meat, fish, vegetables and event Chinese takeout for those who tire of the classing roast chicken Sunday dinner.

We headed to the 3rd arrondissement to the Marché Enfants Rouges, 39 rue de Bretagne metro stop Filles du Calvaire on line 8.  After leaving the station and we walked down to rue de Bretagne and discovered many Italian markets, some thing we have not cone across before, however for some reason we were unable to locate the market which is indoors, we think we walked past the entrance and just kept walking.  By the time we realized our error we decided to bag the market for the day.

The plate actually come with 10 I had eaten some before a took the photo, sorry!

Interior of a falafel for those who have not had them

Sunday line rain or shine

A bit after 12 we made the decision to walk over the the Marais for lunch at l’as du Fallafel. We arrived and like many Sundays the line were long, so we checked in the the number taker and got our number.  We were in line about 5 minutes when one of the runners asked us if we would like to eat in the annex, of course we said yes have been in the restaurant multiple time it was not about Facebook or Instagram posting but eating their great falafels. So off we when and order the special platter and a lemonade.  As always the lunch was excellent, falafels with red cabbage, white cabbage, cucumber and tomato salad, hummus and sweet red pepper relish, with pita bread.

Time to head back to the apartment for a bit of rest.

Porc leg with sauerkraut

Dinner tonight was very simple leg of of Porc with chou croute and bread and wine.

Steps 14,222 or 6.4 miles (-691 calories)

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Paris 2019 – Day 11

Off to the Marché President Wilson this morning.  President Wilson Marché is amoung the largest in Paris.  The market stretches from the metro stop Iéna to Alma Marceau on line 9.  The market has over 70 stalls, some of which stand 50-60 feet in length and the stalls include seafood, meat, cheese, vegetables, nut, spices ,olives, pastries, bread, and prepared items of all imagination.  We purchased a leg of Porc and Sauerkraut (Chou croute) for tomorrows dinner, we also selected a piece of Tarte Tropézienne, not nearly as good as we

Tarte Tropézienne

have had previously so the search will continue.

Tarte tropézienne, also known as “La Tarte de Saint-Tropez“, is a dessert pastry consisting of a filled brioche.[1] It was created in 1955 by Alexandre Micka,[2] a pâtisserie owner in Saint-Tropez. The pastry was named by actress Brigitte Bardot while she was there filming And God Created Woman.[3]

Micka’s pâtisserie “La Tarte Tropézienne”

Micka’s original pâtisserie still exists and is named “La Tarte Tropézienne”.

We took our bounty back to the apartment and then headed over to the Opera area in the 9th arrondissement to find the on Rue de Martyre.  We took the bus in that direction by alas it’s Saturday and the Yellow Vest protested were on the move so the bus ended at Place Victor Hugo and we got on the metro and completed our journey to Notre-Dame de-Lorette and the market.  The market which is in the 9th arrondissement is in a up and coming area, actually I would say that was true a few years ago and now it is pretty posh.  we walked the market and enjoyed looking at the treasure a few years ago would have been going home in our suit case but after our move and down size there is no room at the inn, but its always nice to appreciate interesting items.  Following the market we made our way back to Opera and the protest, this time in the form of a “Rave for the Climate”.  In addition e were amazed to find the Apple store boarded up as thought there was a hurricane coming, even the flag was wrapped up and the Apple Logo covered. After leaving

Boarded up Apple Store

the Opera area we made our way over the the Hotel De Ville metro stop to visit the BHV department store.  Wow has this store up graded and up scaled and is now up there with some of the more chi-chi stores in Paris, but the prices were still pretty good.

Popoline – New exciting cream puffs

While on our visit to the Brocante market I noticed a pastry shop called Popoline.  Popoline make cream puffs and they appertains to be the new part in Paris.  This is the second of third store I have seen specializing in creampuffs.

Glass of Rosé at Bianco Italian

After shopping we headed over to the 1st arrondissement to get a glass of wine and an early dinner.  We chose to stop for wine at one of our favorite watering hole the has a happy hour of 2 for one named Bianco Italian.  After drinks the hour was perfect for a burger at Cafe du Centre.  Both of these were located on the Rue Montorgueil in the 2nd arrondissement, several years ago we stayed on Rue Tiquetonne just off Rue Montorqueil so were very familiar with the area, it has become much more of a tourist area but the burgers at Centre are still excellent.

After dinner we mapped a route home around the many metro stops still closed as a result of the yellow vest protests.

Steps = 19,309 or 8.7 miles and (-938 calories) add 16 flights of stairs!

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Paris 2019 – Day 10

Fresh Cod Fisk fillet

Sauted and steamed cod with mashed potatoes and haricot vests with garlic.

The first thing you may notice there was no day 9, well there was a day 9, however it rained on and off most of the day so we limited our activities to research and local shopping to re-stock the larder.  We shopped for fish and fruit and of course bread. We purchased fish Cabillaud (cod) from Maison Vanhamme which is on Rue de la Tour and Monsieur Amand Vanhamme has very nice fish at a reasonable price. I coupled the Cabilluad with  potatoes from the market and some haricot vests from a few days ago.We were off  today to continue our market visits. We visited the Marché Gros-La-Fontaine and the Marché Porte Molitor.

We’er back in the apartment taking a break, I got my wires crossed this morning so we went a bit out of the way to get to the second market a simple spelling error took us on a wild goose chase but this is why unlimited metro and bus travel is fantastic it bulky cost time and you get to see and have adventures.  Plus it adds to our healthy exercise.

Butternut squash soup

Sautéed trumpet mushrooms

Steak frites, ribeye of Aubrac beef

Slices of duck breast with pieces of Foie Gras and an outstanding sauce!

We have dinner reservation tonight at La Cordonnerie at 8PM so we will update after dinner. Another fabulous dinner by Hugo, it seem that every time we go it just keeps getting better.  His sauces are just toto die for. tonight Pat stayed true to her plan to have steak frites (ribeye of Aubrac beef), while it is always my plan I can never pass up his special plats.  Tonight Pat had a Velouté of écraser butternut, made from a squash grown in a friend garden at 800 feet and then steamed and mixed with a bit of cream and sugar.  The soup was OUTSTANDING! I started with the salted trumpet mushroom sautéed with butter, white wine and a bit of cumin, followed by the Margret of canard with slices of Foie Gras in a sauce that was incredible, along with scallop potatoes, braised turnips and red beans cooked with a piece of smoked meat that could satisfy the most discerning  southerner.

Hugo cutting Pat steak.

 

Steps = 14,881 or 6.8 miles (-733 calories)

 

 

 

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 9

Rain, Rain go away!

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