Notre Dame – Tribute

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Paris 2019 – Day 28

Headed to the Airport – Au revoir Paris for 2019.

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Paris 2019 – Day 27 (last full day)

Jardin du Ranelagh, Paris 16th Arrondissement

Well all good things must come to an end and will we will definitely miss our City away from home it always good to get back to your own home and familiar surroundings.  We have spent a good part of the morning organizing and collecting our belonging and packing what we can, of course there are the last minute items in the morning.  The Beurre Le Bordier will be the last thing to go in the suit case, 6 250g package which I may add I got on Sale: BOOM! In addition to Le Bordier we purchased and taster 5 other butter this month in Paris. We used to eat exclusively President’s butter in France and now we pass it up, don’t get me wrong it’s still the #1 butter in France but there are so many more choices, becuuse there are so many choices why not try them all.

Bordier butter is a family history born in Brittany in Saint-Malo. Jean-Yves Bordier, son and grandson of Beurrier Cheese Company founded the company, a symbol of quality and authenticity.

Known and recognized, Bordier butter represents haute cuisine. Present in renowned gourmet grocery stores and restaurants, Bordier butter has even led to the opening of boutiques and a bistro around butter in Saint-Malo.

Bordier butter: modern crafts

Bordier butter, Jean-Yves Bordier, son and grandson of butter-maker cheese.A cheese refiner by training, Jean-Yves Bordier places his work under the sign of craftsmanship. He refines his cheeses in seven reconstituted natural cellars in order to obtain tasteful and perfectly textured pastas by working with quality milk in the respect of the traditions. The idea also lies in the idea of ​​preserving traditions in a modern industrial scheme.

Passionate about his work, Jean-Yves Bordier set up his empire in 1985 when he took over the La Maison du Beurre dairy (created in 1927) in Saint-Malo.New immersion in the craft industry, where he rediscovers the art of kneading butter according to the traditional method of the nineteenth century around the essential gestures of ancient butter that he takes over and perfected. He develops his techniques, shapes and transmits them to the point of creating a real company and being solicited by the greatest French and foreign chefs who become his loyal customers. Bordier butter is born as well.

Border butter: the creamery of excellence

Jean-Yves Bordier managed to lead his cheese supply at the best artisans, and the manufacture of butter. The company Beurre Bordier takes a real scale, stemming on a strong and anchored universe. The Bordier Butter also becomes a dairy and a grocery store. Its butter becomes a reference, coming in different forms, butter butter traditional nature scented with original scents: those of the sea with seaweed or smoked salt to those who fall under the new codes of gastronomy with Yuzu , Espelette pepper or Madagascar vanilla.

Then comes the bistro “Around the butter”, located in Saint-Malo intramural in 2011. Proof of the development of the company. Now, Jean-Yves Bordier does not have that butter in his mouth. In an old building located in a typical alley of the city, the bistro reveals a great height under ceiling and a cordial environment, in the air of the time. The place acts as a chic brewery and serves as an aperitif a tray of Bordier butters to taste to awaken the senses before the dishes. Directly adjacent to the bistro, the Bordier creamery takes place, offering a wide choice of cheeses and delicatessen products. Recipes using their butter.

This afternoon we when for a walk through Passy for the last time on this trip and we walked over to the Jardin du Ranelagh and sat in the sun for a while and then moved to a shady part to continue our people watching and enjoying the spring colors of the park in Paris, what’s not to like about that?

We made reservations at La Table Lauriston for dinner, because we cook in so many time we figured we should sample a few more eateries to add to our list and people probably get tired of seeing my food on Pat’s Facebook page.

I had an excellent shoulder of Lamb and Pat the Sole

Steps today 9,721 0or 4.4 miles

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Is a Navigo Découverte Card right for you?

Every time we visit Paris we charge our Navigo Découverte card, one week is about $25 and a month is about $85. You can now charge your Navigo for a single day for about $8.50. We try to plan our visit to coincide with a full month.

OK, this visit our card expired after 10 years and we had to get a new card. At the Aéroport Charles DeGaulle it was a seamless experience.  The lady took our old card, out out the photo, wrote our names and handed up a new card, without the 5€ charge: EXCELLENT!

So we recharges our cards (for a month $85)at the Airport and took the RER Train to our apartment ($11.75). A singe ride on the PARIS metro is $2.12. You can buy a book of 10 tickets for $16.60 or $1.60 per ride.

We calculated that we rode the metro, bus, RER Train and Tram about 8-10 times per day.

The math:
$1.60 * 25(days) * 8 (trips) = $320

So you can see for us we saved $235 in transportation costs per person.

We like to hear your experience? Add a comment below.

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Paris 2019 – Day 26

Our last day with transportation in Paris, our Navigo expires at mid-night so if we want to travel by metro or bus we must purchase a ticket at 1.90 euros.

Today was the first day of daylight saving time in France.

31 Mar 2019 – Daylight Saving Time Started

When local standard time was about to reach
Sunday, 31 March 2019, 02:00:00 clocks were turned forward 1 hour to
Sunday, 31 March 2019, 03:00:00 local daylight time instead.

We’re off today to the Portes de Vanves flee market. (Marchê aux Puse Portes de Vanves). At Alex’s recommendation we decided to take the above ground route.  We walked up to the Boulevard Henri Martin and walked west to the Périphérique Circulator Bus or PC3 and got aboard and headed in the direction of Pont du Garigliano.  Upon arrival we boarded the Tram T3a and got off at Didot and a short 2 minute walk to the market.  We browsed the market for the complete length and Pat observed some items that she would have purchased if she still had the business “The three French Hen” but that was what seems like a long time ago in Richmond.  We noticed that there was a street market in processionals so we walked that market as well. The street market was the Marché Brune.On the Circulator ride Bach we passed another Marché, Marché Point du Jour, but we decided not to stop.

When we got on the PC3 instead of getting off at our stop we chose to ride it to the end of the line and get back on, you get an interesting perspective about the far reach of Paris along the western side.  This is also where all of the car dealerships are located as well as a large number of parks, a stadium for foot Baal and other activities like skate parks etc.

On our way back we walked down Avenue Victor-Hugo to find a place for a glass of beer it is quite warm today at 64-degrees.  Were wanted to stop at the newly renovate restaurant by the RER station but all tables were taken by families have Sunday dinner, very upscale and I’m sure they made reservations.  We ended up at Le Victor-Hugo cafe and enjoyed the Beer and a very small;ll cup of free pop corn.

Tonight were headed to Le Stella for dinner.

“Le Stella is an outstanding restaurant located in the upscale Trocadero neighborhood of the 16th arrondissement. Le Stella is a classic French bistro. The menu features classic French game and seafood dishes and lovely wines and the dining area has a variety of internal and external seating options to accommodate for winter warmth and hot summer evenings. Le Stella is frequented by the French, so is sure to provide you a truly authentic and memorable Parisian restaurant experience. The waiters can help with English translation of the French menu.”

“Since most of Paris’s storied brasseries are now owned by corporate chains and serve wilting, mediocre food, it’s a pleasure to head to one of the last remaining independent ones in a quiet corner of the silk-stocking 16th arrondissement for a fine feed of such well-prepared French classics as onion soup, escargots, sole meunière, steak tartare, roast lamb and other Gallic standards. The people-watching here might be subtitled ‘the discreet charm of the bourgeoisie’; service is efficient and this place has what the French call du gueule, or real character.”

“This tony establishment is on a corner with tables for outdoor seating three seasons of the year and oyster shuckers with their fisherman caps outside busily preparing large platters of oysters, crab, langoustine and large shrimp. Le Stella is a true Parisian brasserie – you won’t find tourists here – just the upper crust of Paris coming for a relaxed family meal.

Don’t be intimidated by the waiters in black bow ties either – they are friendly. The clientele come dressed down in jeans and maybe polo shirts (just don’t be surprised if the women are also wearing Jimmy Choo six-inch high heels with a fur coat).”

“The food is terrific, with classic dishes such as escargots, steak au poivre, and sole meunière. For dessert we tried profiteroles, which is vanilla ice cream served in a light pastry puff. The waiter has a pitcher of extra rich warm dark chocolate sauce that he pours on top.”

We arrived at La Stella around 7:30 after a short walk from our apartment, we were seated inside at our request.  we ordered a carafe of Rosé and 6 oysters.  For dinner Pat ordered the Cod with Chorizo and it came on a bed of cabbage and leeks with a bit of curry, I ordered the veal liver which came with green beans.  We both very much enjoyed our dinner.  For dessert Profiterole for Pat and a apple tart for me, all made in house.  Coffee and cappuccino.

As we walked out to the street the 52 bus pulled up, 2 stop and back at the apartment at about 9:30.

Steps today 13,948 or 6.3 miles (-677 calories)

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 25

Staying close to the apartment today due to the Yellow Vest activities.  We when to the Marché President Wilson this morning to get fruit and sausages, peppers and onions so I can make some sausage and peppers with 3 different type of sausage Merquez, which is lamb sausage, a port sausage and a chipolata. The sausage and peppers turned out very good, a simple but flavorful dinner with the addition of a baguette and some wine.

Steps today = 3,863 or 1.7 miles (1188 calories)

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 24

We’re off to the markets and other things today.

We have decided to visit another 3 markets today:

All of the market proved to be worth the visit event the smaller one Marché Bobillot at Pace de Rungis.  However the largest and best for the day was Marché Auguste-Blanqu the one we passed up on Tuesday were glad that we decided to return on this visit. The above links contain the descriptions and photos.

After the markets we stoped at La Maison d’Isabell to buy a couple of their award winning croissants, we planned to get them yesterday and we forgot.  YUM!

We headed over to Bon Marche so Pat could continue her quest for the perfect purse and I always enjoy waling around La Grande Épicerie de Paris. Nothing purchased today.

Back to the apartment to update the blog and rest before our last dinner a La Cordonnerie.

Lieu Jaune with red quinoa and sautéed celery in a time butter sauce.

Terrine de Canard

Vegetable plate

Our dinner tonight was of Lieu Jaune (Yellow Pollack) in a lime cream sauce with red quinoa, and Sautéed celery. Both pat and I chose the fish Pat stared with a vegetable plate and selected the terrine de canard. Because the weather is warming and we were have fish we selected a Rosé from Provence as our wine. No dessert tonight because we opted for a second bottle of wine however we did have an espresso and a cappuccino to complete the meal.

Lieu Jaune (Yellow Pollack) From the family Gadidae, such as cod or cod, whiting, hake or burbot

It is a little known fish of the public but that the chefs adore, especially those who fight for sustainable fishing, like Gaël Orieux, godfather of Mr. Goodfish. These chefs try to cook other species than traditional salmon and cod to avoid overfishing as is the case today for bluefin tuna.

The Yellow Pollack is caught on the line on the Atlantic, Brittany and Channel coasts. It has a dark lateral line with a well marked curvature above the pectoral fins. Its lower jaw is visibly longer than its upper jaw. Its head is sharper than that of the black place, its cousin, and its color is rather coppery but is sometimes darker brown. His belly is clear.Young people have recognizable yellow-orange colors.

This wild fish has a flesh that resembles that of cod, nacreous that stands out in petals, and whose flavor is exceptional. At the sign of freshness, its flesh must be pink.

Watch over the stalls of your fishmonger, it is not found as easily as salmon but it will seduce the whole family because it has few edges and its taste is fairly neutral.

It should not be confused with the black pollack of the same family, but which, more common fish, has a drier flesh, and sells half the price of the yellow pollack, much more tasty and with finer flesh.

It is a lean, low calorie fish that provides as much protein as meat but much less fat, (less than 2%), most of which are polyunsaturated fatty acids, especially omega 3 , with

 

Make your own Line Cream Sauce

1 (Use Juice And Finely Grated Zest)
Lime juice 1/4 Cup (4 tbs) (Rose’S)
Sugar1/4 Cup (4 tbs)
Heavy cream2 Cup (32 tbs)
Butter8 Ounce , cut into pats (2 Sticks, At Room Temperature)

1. In a heavy bottomed medium saucepan, combine lime, zest and Rose’s lime juice.

2. Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer till it is reduced to 2 table spoons.

3. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve. It will form thick syrup.

4. Gradually stir the cream into the lemon sugar syrup. Simmer until reduced to 1 cup.

5. Take the sauce pan off the heat and whisk in half the softened butter, stir to blend before adding the other half until incorporated into the cream.

6. Using a fine mesh sieve, strain the sauce into a bottle or a sauce boat and use as desired.

SERVING-

7. You can refrigerate the sauce in a well sealed jar for 2-3 days

8. Warm the sauce in a saucepan before using. Do not boil the sauce or it will curdle.

Step today = 18,825 or 8.5 miles (-914 calories)

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 23

Off to check out additional markets today.

We began with the Marché Saxe-Breteuil in the 7th arrondissement which is actually on the line between the 7th and 15.  A very nice market in a very nice residential are of Paris.

Next stop the 5th arrondissement and the Marché Maubert where we came across La Maison d’Isabelle at 47 Boulevard Saint-Germain the bakery who is the 2018 Croissant au Beurre of the year

Next stop was a little further afield in the 6th arrondissement the Marché Port Royal.

We then when over to the first arrondissement to the Marche des Halles which used to be a good market but we found little food and most to he was take-out.  This area which used to we the belly of Paris is now very tourist inhabited.  The cook ware stores still remain to the likes of E.Dehillerin, Mora, La Bovda, Datou, A.Simon, etc.  While I was not planning to buy I could not help but get some bread moulds for the bread I have been making lately at home.

We had plans to shop for dinner at the Marche des Halles but we quickly changed those plans and after a walk around the area to scope out other change we jumped the metro back to the 16th arrondissement.  We drop off the moulds at the apartment and headed up to Rue Passy tossup for dessert.  We oped to get to Aux Mervielleux by Fred (see our post that includes this) . Start on rue de l’Annonciation, a cute and cobbled pedestrian street – home to Aux Merveilleux de Fred. If you’re into meringue, this patissier might just be your idea of heaven: Merveilleux are gigantic meringues layered with cream and chocolate, rolled in white and dark chocolate flakes.  We chose two mini Merveilleux a Le Merveilleux for Pat and a Le Magnifique for Mike.  While walking bake we found a pastry shop the had a mini Tarte Tropézienne about the size of a hamburger roll.  We purchased one of these as well.

Back by the apartment we purchased a fleet of beef from the butcher, Brussel sprouts and potatoes from the vegetable/fruit store and a baguette from La Pompadour.  Home for wine and then dinner.

Steps today = 17,232 or 7.8 miles (-837 calories and 7 flights of stairs)

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 22

We depart after breakfast and headed over to metro stop Passy to visit the wine museum (Musee du Vin).  While a stones trow from the apartment we have not been before, my brother and his wife visited on a previous trip and did not give it high marks

Musee du Vin

The Wine Museum is housed in what used to be crude limestone quarries that were mined between the 13th and the 18th centuries to supply the stones used to build Paris. This limestone is a characteristic feature of a geological age universally known as ‘Lutécien’ (from Lutece, the former name given to Paris) and is situated at 37.80 metres above sea-level. The museum galleries were dug out in the lower part of this geological layer by means of a “turning pillar” technique. The pillars were evenly spaced to support the quarry roof. Especially in the 19th century, stone walls were built as reinforcement for these galleries. The limestone was formed by the accumulation of seashells at the bottom of the warm sea that covered the area 45 million years ago. Fossils from these animals can still be seen in some places (bivalve mollusks or stretched shells). The well at the entrance of the museum is evidence of the existence of occasionally emerging groundwater. Several mineral water springs were actually discovered in the Passy area between the middle of the 17th century and 1754 (hence the name “Waters Road”, “la rue des Eaux”). Deemed ferruginous and laxative, Passy spring water was exploited commercially until the Second Empire, though it was mainly in the 18th century that it became fashionable, attracting water takers from the Parisian ‘upper classes’, writers and artists.

The Wine Cellars of the Minims Monastery

historique-couventThe three vaulted cellars, which today house the Museum restaurant, were used in the 16th and 17th centuries by the Friars of Passy Monastery for storing their wine. The information panels in the corridor leading to the museum recall the history of this monastery, which was built by the mendicant Friars of the Minims Order. This order was founded in 1472 by François Martorille (1436-1507) who was canonized as Saint Francis of Paola. This Calabrian hermit, known to be a thaumaturge (miracle worker), was summoned to Plessis-les-Tours on the Loire by King Louis XI in 1475 and was allowed to expand his order in France. Construction of the monastery began in 1493 and was encouraged and enriched by Queen Anne of Brittany. Built along today’s Beethoven Road, the monastery was surrounded by gardens and terraces going down to the Seine with orchards and vines planted on the hillside. From these vines, the Friars used to produce a light red wine which King Louis XIII liked to drink on his return from hunting in the Bois de Boulogne. Today, this history is evoked in the presence of surrounding street names such as ‘rue Vineuse’ (Winy Road) and the ‘rue des Vignes’ (Vineyard Road). The monastery was abandoned during the Revolution and the buildings destroyed.

The Echansons Council of France (Le Conseil des Echansons de France)

historique-confrerieRenovated in the 1950s, the ancient wine cellars were for a time used as a wine storage room for the restaurant at the Eiffel Tower. It later became the Wine Museum and since 1984 has been under the ownership of the «Conseil des Echansons de France». This council, founded in 1954, is dedicated to the defense and promotion of the finest French wines. To this end, the Council organizes many prestigious events throughout France, abroad and here at the museum. The council unites several thousand professionals and wine-lovers from all over the world who promote the “savoir-faire” and quality for which French wines are renowned.

Jean-Jacques Hervy, Museum Curator

While we enjoyed a glass of wine after the tour in the tasting cell the curator of the museum, Jean-Jacques Hervy, stop by our table and we chatted about the wines from the Gaillac region in French and English.  We opted to try 2 wines a dry Rosé  (2009)and a red (2010), the rosé had a deeper pink/red due to aging and leaned in the direction of a very light red wine made from the Duras grape while still considered a rosé.  The red was a blend of the grape from Gaillac, a Syrah and a Gamay.

Courtyard at entrance to Museum

Our next stop was the Musée Jacquemart-André on Boulevard Haussmann to see and exhibition by a master of Danish painting named Vilhelm Hammershøi (1864-1916).

Musée Jacquemart-Andre

Initially exhibited in Paris at the Petit Palais in 1987 and subsequently in the Musée d’Orsay in 1997, visitors were fascinated by Hammershøi’s paintings representing empty and subtly rendered interiors that sometimes feature a woman whose back faces the viewer, painted in grey and white tones.

Self Portrait, Oil on Tapestry (1913)

The exhibited paintings will represent Hammershøi’s entire oeuvre and its mysterious and profound atmosphere. A withdrawn and quiet individual, Hammershøi spent all of his life in a small circle of family and friends, all of whom constantly featured in his paintings: his mother, sister, brother, and brother-in-law all posed for him, as did several close friends. He also painted his wife, Ida, who is often seen from the back in many of the works that have made him famous.

You will also discover Hammershøi’s links with France, his two stays in Paris, and his participation in the Exposition Universelle in Paris (1889 and 1900).

The Musée Jacquemart-André will display Hammershøi’s art from a fresh perspective by illustrating his links with the artists in his circle. For the first time, this retrospective will compare Hammershøi’s works with paintings executed by his brother Svend Hammershøi, his brother-in-law Peter Ilsted, and his friend Carl Holsøe. This comparative approach will highlight their affinities, differences, and the unique genius of Vilhelm Hammershøi, the artist of solitude, silence, and light.

Forty works will reveal the mysterious and poetic world of the artist. Previously unseen works from the Ambassador John L. Loeb Jr. Danish Art Collection, which are rarely exhibited during the major international retrospectives devoted to Hammershøi’s oeuvre, will be displayed for the first time in France

The exhibition will also include loaned works from major Danish and Swedish museums, such as the Statens Museum for Kunst and the Hirschprungske Samling in Copenhagen, the Nationalmuseum and the Thielska Galleriet in Stockholm, and the Malmö Konstmuseum, as well as the Musée d’Orsay and London’s Tate Gallery, and from private collections. Major works will illustrate every aspect of Hammershøi’s oeuvre: his first portraits, nudes, architectural views, landscapes, and the extraordinary interior scenes that have made him so famous.

We’re now back in the apartment (3:45) planning our afternoon shopping for dinner and breakfast sojourn. Stops will include vegetable/fruit vendor, fresh pasta store and of course the bakery for todays bread.

Steps today = 7,850 or 3.5 miles

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 21

Off to the markets of Paris.  There are a number of markets that are open on Tuesday so we selected 3 and headed out after a late breakfast, we found that this works best because we miss the morning metro rush and we can limit our food intake to 2 meals and afternoon wine people watching.

The Marché Daumesnil, if Tuesday is your only available day to catch a street market, this is the one. Open between 7 am and 2:30 pm, they are also open on Friday for the same period. A large market with a very high number of stalls which include both food, clothing and other items one may need for daily life in a large city like Paris.  While we would judge the quality a bit lower than some of the more noteworthy market is the center of Paris this one serves the area well.  The Marché Daumesnil is located almost at the end of the metro line #6 north east of the River almost to the outer edge of Paris where to cost of living is a bit less expensive.  None the less its and interesting market to visit.

Second stop was going to be Marche August-Blanqui, but we could see from the metro (it’s above ground at the Corvisart stop) that fewer than 10% of the vendors were there. That market is also open Friday’s and Saturday’s so I’m sure more vendors are participating then.

Third market was Marché Salpetiere near L’Hopital Boulevard. It was small: 3 vendors today and 11 or 12 empty stalls.

Pat saw some thing she wanted to get as a gift so we were off to Montmartre for a second day, however, it was far less crowded so our recommendation is if you have Sacré-Cœur basilica on your list Monday-Thursday is the best day, far less crowed and easier to navigate up rue Steinkerque to the top where you either catch the  or walk up the steps, a lot of steps! Anyway we reached our destination and and Headed to the market at the Bourse. The market was not worth the effort, very few stalls and not what we would consider as a good Paris market.

We decided to head back to the 16th for a glass of wine at a bistro in the sun and found La Rotonde de la Muette. Alex provided us with a long list of restaurant in the local area and we have visited many but because we take advantage of the markets and cook in ofter we have not done as good of job with our restaurant visits.  However tonight we are going to go to Le Grand Bistro Muette. For dinner we chose the 44€ Menu for 2, which included a Kir Royal, a bottle of wine, Started, main Course, Dessert and Coffee. Pat chose the terrine of foie gras, the sole grilled and the strawberry ice cream for dessert, for me the Gâteau Landais Pommes de Terre with foie gras and morel sauce (signature dish of the house), Lamb chops and Paris Brest for dessert.

Steps today = 15,111 or 6.8 miles

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