![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.frenchbychoice.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/IMG_0958.jpg\" "\\"IMG_0958\\"")
<\/a>Breakfast French-Style<\/p><\/div>\n
Montmartre derives its name from “mons martyrium” or mount of martyrs, commemorating the martyrdom of St Dennis and two companions in AD 250 – a gruesome tale. \u00c2\u00a0The area is known for its artists and musicians, somewhat seedy side, but has held onto its village-like charm and small-town, village atmosphere.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Pale Green Ironwork of the Guimard-designed Metro Entrance\/Exit<\/p><\/div>\n
Abbesses, is one of two remaining \u00c2\u00a0Belle Epoque pale green ironwork entrances\/exits to the Metro – original design by Hector Guimard. \u00c2\u00a0The square, named after nuns who moved their abbey down from the “butte” in the 17th century, is home to Paris’ first reinforced concrete church, faced with red brick and in a moorish design.<\/p>\n
We walked toward rue des Trois Freres along rue Yvonne le Tac, lined with shops, galleries and restaurants. \u00c2\u00a0This street is supposedly the site of St Dennis’ execution at the hands of Roman soldiers. The Chapelle du Martyre, a 19th century chapel which replaced an earlier chapel where the Jesuit order was founded in 1534, was closed – it’s only open Friday afternoons.<\/p>\n
Then on past place Charles Dullin and its Theatre de l’Atelier to bd de Rochechouart – of absolutely no charm or integrity. \u00c2\u00a0Now a tacky souvenir shop, Le Chat Noir is right here in the middle of the block. \u00c2\u00a0Nearby, Trinon, a very attractive building is in the throes of renovation. \u00c2\u00a0At first we mistook it for the Theatre Elysee-Monmartre, with its crumbling Art Nouveau facade. \u00c2\u00a0But, we continued on and few doors away, there it was; its Art Nouveau facade draped in netting to keep it from falling on passers-by. \u00c2\u00a0A German band and promoter were unloading equipment from two huge buses\/trucks blocking the road. \u00c2\u00a0We figured out that would be the scene of the next rave! \u00c2\u00a0In its prime time, this was the nightclub known for extravagant shows. \u00c2\u00a0In fact, famed can-can dancer La Goulue made her debut here, before she left this theater to perform at the Moulin Rouge.<\/p>\n
<\/a>How about some trim?<\/p><\/div>\n
Then up rue de Steinkerque, where you can find any and all kind of bargains from household goods to clothing to souvenirs. \u00c2\u00a0Here on this busy, busy street, you can see huckster after huckster, set up in the middle of the street doing the proverbial “shell game.” \u00c2\u00a0What continues to surprise me time after time, is how many gullible tourists stand there and get sucked in!<\/p>\n
Just around the corner is one my “must-do’s” in Paris – Place St Pierre and its fabric, button, and trim shop after shop after shop. \u00c2\u00a0All in the shadow (at least on a sunny day) of the Sacre Coeur, with its white wedding-cake outline. \u00c2\u00a0I wandered in and out while Mike waited out in the street – way too hot in the stores.<\/p>\n
<\/a>If you can't find the button you're looking for here, you won't<\/p><\/div>\n
The funicular was not working so we wandered up the street and found a lunch spot, sitting outside, while everyone else huddled over their tables wearing coats and scarves. \u00c2\u00a0Our waitress was concerned we would be too cold or we might get wet — but we were very comfortable. \u00c2\u00a0After lunch, I went into Fragonard and tried on a few scents, but nothing suited me quite as much as 1812 from Detaille. \u00c2\u00a0By then the funicular was running, we supposed it had stopped for lunch; so we headed up to the basilica and its wonderful view of the city. \u00c2\u00a0Clouds looked like they were breaking and, so we continued on our walk.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Fabric Awaits<\/p><\/div>\n
<\/a>More Fabric - Even On The Street!<\/p><\/div>\n
Right after the funicular, we walked through square Nadar, complete with a statue of Chevalier de la Barre, a 19 year-old knight who was punished for singing songs in front of a procession of Capuchin friars without doffing his hat. \u00c2\u00a0After removing his tongue, cutting off his hand, and burning his body – he was executed. \u00c2\u00a0Pretty cruel, if you ask me!<\/p>\n
<\/a>Basilica Sacre Coeur against a Cloudy Sky<\/p><\/div>\n
Up to Sacre-Coeur, begun in 1875 and finished in 1919. It was designed by Paul Abadie as a symbol of contrition after France’s defeat in the Franco-Prussian War. \u00c2\u00a0The church is beautiful, with an immense mosaic of Christ with arms outstretched in welcome. \u00c2\u00a0Photos were not permitted in the church; but postcards and trinkets were available for sale. \u00c2\u00a0I light a candle in honor of my sister and her family at the center of the basilica.<\/p>\n
Then past Montmartre’s other church, St Pierre, one of the oldest in Paris, and a remnant of a 12th century Benedictine Abbey. \u00c2\u00a0It’s tiny cemetery with only 85 graves is open only on November 1, All Saints’ Day. \u00c2\u00a0Then, around the corner, to the 14th century place du Tertre, the square known for its artists. \u00c2\u00a0It has changed in that the central square is now populated with tents and restaurants and the artists have been pushed to the edges. \u00c2\u00a0We wandered and looked at the selections: mostly bad, mostly ugly, mostly too expensive.<\/p>\n
We aborted our stroll, headed back to Abbesses and metro’d back to La Bourse, where an afternoon street market was happening. \u00c2\u00a0We checked it out, looking for seafood – pickings were slim on this overcast day. \u00c2\u00a0We hopped aboard the Metro, headed back to the apartment. \u00c2\u00a0On the way, we passed a MonoPrix, stepped inside to check it out – and bought some wine to go with tonight’s dinner of salad and ravioli.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Art in the Square<\/p><\/div>\n
<\/a>About my favorite - and the artist wasn't even French! Mon Dieu!<\/p><\/div>\n
<\/a>Metallics are the rage!<\/p><\/div>\n
<\/a>And more metallics!<\/p><\/div>\n
<\/a>Don't sing in front of friars without doffing your hat - punishment is pretty cruel<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
We had a late start this morning since I took some time to update our blog with photos. \u00c2\u00a0I am working backward from here and have completed through 22 September. \u00c2\u00a0Lou and Sandy were off at the ungodly hour of … Continue reading