Full Day in Amsterdam

Before trying the hotel’s breakfast, I was able to find a place to do a plank, crunches, and all those things required by the 7-minute scientific workout. Had to stack the suitcases to make room. But it was completed!

Breakfast is now included in the room price at Hotel Bellevue, since they were purchased by IBIS Hotels. Down in the basement we found a breakfast room with coffee, tea, juices, eggs, bacon, baked beans (?), breads, croissants, yogurt, cereal, milk. Perfect beginning to the day.

Just before we headed out into the sunshine, our room phone rang and it was Shoe and Carol. They had been dropped off at the hotel and were ready to strike out on an exploration. So getting together with them was very simple. We picked a walking tour out of Frommer’s Amsterdam called The Golden Age Canals where we walked along 3 17-th century canals: Herengracht (Gentlemen’s Canal), Keizersgracht (Emperor’s Canal), and Prinsengracht (Princes’ Canal).  The canals are tree-lined, intersecting many smaller canals, and edged with 17th century canal houses with all sorts and styles of gables.

Homes along the canal - typical Amsterdam

Homes along the canal – typical Amsterdam

We passed the West-Indisch Huis, the structure that housed the 17th century Dutch West India Company’s headquarters for trade, including slave trade, between Holland, the Americas, and Africa.  Our walk was peppered with humpback bridges, moored houseboats, and the picturesque  Brouwersgracht (Brewers’ Canal).  Noordermarkt square was empty; but on Saturdays it houses a farmer’s market, on Mondays a flea market.

This particular boat have 6 of these wine bottle trees. Is this my next craft project?

This particular boat have 6 of these wine bottle trees. Is this my next craft project?

We ventured into Zon’s Hofje, where a hidden almshouse surrounds a courtyard at the end of a long passageway. The courtyard was the site of the Mennonites’ church called De Zon. It was demolished in 1755, and the Mennonites held meetings in the courtyard. De Zon was located at the end of the passageway because Mennonites, as not the “official” religion, were not permitted a structure with street frontage.

I want a tower that changes silver into gold

I want a tower that changes silver into gold

The warehouses and brewery warehouses have been or are being converted into chic, upscale living quarters. At 123 Keizergracht we found the house with heads on its facade representing Apollo, Ceres, Mars, Athena, Bacchus (Mike’s favorite), and Diana.

The Huis met de Hoofen at 123Keizersgracht, this facade dates to 1622

The Huis met de Hoofen at 123Keizersgracht, this facade dates to 1622

Then onto Anne Frakhuis, long line and long wait, but worthwhile. This is where Anne Frank (1929-45) hid from the Nazis and wrote her diary. Very moving.

Would you park this car on the street across from the Anne Frankhuis?

Would you park this car on the street across from the Anne Frankhuis?

This delightful residence is permanently moored here in this canal

This delightful residence is permanently moored here in this canal

Since we are a group who travels on our stomachs, it’s off to lunch at De Prins, Prinsgracht 124. Beer, wine, a salad with warm chèvre, and sandwiches. We sat outside soaking up the sun. We had a few instances where we were sure a car or truck would come over the hump bridge and fail to make the turn – ending up at or table on the sidewalk.

Shoe, Carol, and Mike at lunch

Shoe, Carol, and Mike at lunch

Hope the car makes the turn in time! Or else, join us for lunch!

Hope the car makes the turn in time! Or else, join us for lunch!

The horse definitely did not want to join us for lunch

The horse definitely did not want to join us for lunch

We continued on our walking tour visiting Westerkerk, strolling past all the elegant houses along Keizersgracht and cutting over to Herengracht. We checked out the exterior of the Nienhuys Mansion, built in 1889 for a tobacco tycoon. We continued on to the “Golden Bend” tracing the evolution of residences of the wealthy in the 17th century.

This blue boat contrasts with the orange one from yesterday

This blue boat contrasts with the orange one from yesterday

After a break back at the hotel to acquire additional layers of clothing, we strolled down through the shopping district (that area where young skinny women indulge in the latest fashion), found a few diamond shops (Mike and Shoe weren’t buying), and stumbled upon the Begijnhof. Begijnhof dates to the 14th century, and though not a convent was a cloister for pious women of Catholic faith.  It was an option for women who did not wish to become nuns and who preferred to live without husbands or children.

The central area of the Begijnhof

The central area of the Begijnhof

Hydrangea clinging to a fence at the Begijnhof

Hydrangea clinging to a fence at the Begijnhof

From there we found the flower market (the Bloemenmarkt). The market is some 15 or more stalls located on permanently moored barges. Lots of tulip bulbs, fresh flowers, bonsai plants, and, of course the myriad tourist souvenirs. After a quick walk through the Royal Delft shop right at the market, we headed over to a sidewalk cafe for a glass of wine.

varied calla lilies at the flower market

varied calla lilies at the flower market

Tulip bulbs for sale at the Flower Market

Tulip bulbs for sale at the Flower Market

Continuing on our stroll, we searched for a place with seafood for dinner.  We found Haesje Claes on Spuistraat. Mike and Shoe had duck leg, Carol had beef stew, and I had cod filet – perfectly executed with steamed vegetables! Yum!  We headed back to the hotel to call it a day!

When the hour struck, the bells in this tower rang!

When the hour struck, the bells in this tower rang!

The back of the barges holding the stalls of the flower market

The back of the barges holding the stalls of the flower market

 

Posted in Amsterdam, Bistros, Cafes, Brasseries, Cafe, Historic Sites and Monuments | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Onward to Amsterdam

Despite setting the alarm, we both had a fitful night sleep – afraid we would oversleep and miss our train from Landstuhl.  Up early, before the alarm went off, showered and ready to conquer a day of train travel in Germany, with our limited knowledge of the German language.  We were scheduled for the 9:00 am regional commuter train from Landstuhl to Kaiserslauten, but we actually arrived early and caught an earlier train.

Our second step on this adventure was catching the train from Kaiserslauten to Frankfurt, finding our correct car and assigned seats. You can usually find a diagram somewhere on the platform that correlates the cars and access points on the platform. For example, car 21, can be boarded at access point D.  The car to which we were assigned was scheduled to stop at point C and was the third car in the series. Bingo, we quickly found our car and our seats. The ride on the ICE, the inter-city express was smooth and comfortable and we arrived in Frankfurt on time at 10:58 AM.

That was the the end of smooth and uneventful. Our train to Amsterdam was scheduled to leave from platform 20 at at 11:29 AM. At precisely 11:30 AM they announced our train to Amsterdam was cancelled due to technical difficulties. Here comes a new experience – navigating a change in tickets and seat assignments in German! A little bit of tension here.

We got in line at an information desk/service point behind a whole lot of other folks. Our choices were take a train to Oberhausen and take a bus from there to Amsterdam or take the train at 1:31 pm with an arrival around 5:30 PM. Needless to say, we took the later train without the bus transfer. However, since we had seat assignments, we had to go to the travel center to get new seat assignments and wait in another line! Once all the paperwork was completed, we had about an hour and fifteen minutes left.  We found a frankfurter stand and had a frankfurter mit brochen (on a roll with mustard) and a bottle of water. Next stop the WC. 1 euro got you in to the Rail and Fresh WC, probably the cleanest WC in a train station I have ever seen.

Now, remember what I said about the diagram and the access points and car assignments on the platform? The diagram indicated that our car was the first car in line and accessed at point D. Train stopped and that car was not our car. We had to jog back to point A to get to our car, board, find our seats – before the train left the station. Luckily the train was almost 5 minutes late leaving.

We left Frankfurt, passing through Koln, Dusseldorf, Duisburg, Oberhausen, Arnhem, and Utrecht Centraal. The ride to Amsterdam through beautiful countryside on a mostly sunny day was gorgeous. The train, though, moved too fast for photos of the fields, cows, sheep,  horses, architecture, and picturesque towns. We crossed over the Rhine at Koln on a bridge with pedestrian and bike paths adjacent to the railroad bridge. The paths were safeguarded from the train tracks by a chainlink fence. The fence on both sides was covered in padlocks, just like those we found in Paris.

The bed, minuscule chest, and window make up the entire square footage of our room! It's tiny - but clean as a pin! I'll take clean over spacious any day.

The bed, minuscule chest, and window make up the entire square footage of our room! It’s tiny – but clean as a pin! I’ll take clean over spacious any day.

We found the Hotel Bellevue, across from the train station and checked in. Since we made our original reservation, the hotel had been purchased by IBIS – but, luckily they kept the Bellevue sign!  Our room is very clean and tiny. There is not enough square footage to do a push up or a plank! Where ont earth should we put the suitcases? But, at least we have free wi-fi access!

teeny tiny but clean!

teeny tiny but clean!

We ventured out to explore, walking along canals and visiting Dam Square. Mike was thrilled by the red light win.dows and was not tempted by anything he saw! We searched a few menus to find a place to have dinner. We chose Cafe Van Zuylen at 4-8 Torensteeg. Several glasses of merlot, calamari, salad and Black Angus steak prepared medium rare fit the bill.

Out comes our sight-seeing kit for strolling Amsterdam's city center

Out comes our sight-seeing kit for strolling Amsterdam’s city center

Amsterdam is known for its intriguing architecture

Amsterdam is known for its intriguing architecture

I loved the bright color!

I loved the bright color!

On our stroll we found this solitary rose in bloom in front of a beautiful home overlooking the canal

On our stroll we found this solitary rose in bloom in front of a beautiful home overlooking the canal

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Birthday in Germany

That’s right, today is Mike’s Birthday. It seems like most years we are traveling somewhere on his birthday. Perhaps, it’s because most tourists are unable to travel this time of year; at any rate, we are very lucky.

Mike's special birthday card! Theme: obviously his favorite city!

Mike’s special birthday card! Theme: obviously his favorite city!

We spent a rather slow day, recovering from travel. First stop after the 7 minute work out: croissant and coffee. It is way too bad that we can’t get croissants this good in Richmond – or coffee either for that matter.

Second stop RTT Travel, right here in the AF Inn to arrange train tickets to Amsterdam tomorrow.  While at the travel agent, we saw a flyer for an excursion from Frankfort to Vietnam, a 10 or 12 day excursion. That might be a future adventure. We’re sure Viet Nam is very different today from when Mike was there so many years ago.

Since it was a bright sunny day, we decided to walk around the base to get better bearings. Every time we had been here previously, we arrived and caught a train to somewhere else or arrived late afternoon and headed home the next morning.  All in all, we walked for two and a half hours, maybe strolled (I was with Mike after all).

Back at AFInn, Mike spent some time on the computer, trying to make sure alarms did not go off at 2 am again! We tried to extrapolate from current conditions and flights what going home might be like and whether we should try to get reservations here at AFInn in preparation. We submitted request electronically but the server was down. I’m sure we’ll get word later.

Mike’s birthday dinner was at the Paradox in Ramstein Village. We started off with celebratory beer! After all, we are in Germany and tomorrow starts October. Dinner photo was awfully dark, so I am not posting it. Mike had steak, I had schnitzel with a spicy red pepper sauce, tossed salad, and rosti with a glass of white wine.

A toast to Mike's Birthday

A toast to Mike’s Birthday

While at dinner, we overheard the couple at the table adjacent discussing whether to drive or take the train to Paris. I wrote down La Cordonnerie’s address and phone in Paris and suggested they might want to try to dine at Hugo’s while they are in Paris. They were visiting their daughter, who is completing her student teaching requirement at Ramstein, and her grandfather had tagged along. We shared a few suggestions about Paris before they left – including leaving the car in Frankfort!

All in all, it was a delightful day!

 

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Safe and Sound in Germany (Ramstein AFB)

Well, wheels up was about 0145 Sunday (9/29) and wheels down in in Germany was 1418 Sunday (9/29).  The flight was late leaving BWI due to a passenger medical emergency and that passenger needed to be taken off the plane after being tended to by the medics who happened to be on board headed back to Germany.

Plane lands in Germany @ Ramstein AFB

Plane lands in Germany @ Ramstein AFB

Of course, her luggage needed to be located and removed. As you can imagine, it was no small feat and it took about 60 minutes or more, the flight was initially scheduled for departure at 2330.   Those of us who fly Space-A get used to the little missteps along the way, of course the $17.10 cost per person helps to smooth one’s patience. On commercial flights, Princess Pat refuses to ever sit in a middle seat – but she peeped nary a word with our seat assignments. We were both in center seats in a gang of four. Pat noticed that active duty military in uniform were given all aisle seats (unless they requested a window seat) as it should be!

Deplaning is an experience to behold. Officers first, families relocating to new assignments in Europe with pets in the cargo hold, military on orders for Kuwait, active duty military, then all others. A system like that would never work on a general public flight. Seatbelt light off, everyone jumps up and sharpens their elbows. We have checked into the Air Force Inn for 2 nights while we ponder the next 72-hours and what to do prior to arrival in Amsterdam.  We still need transportation from Ramstein to Amsterdam so it will be priority #1 tomorrow.

AirForse Inn

Our home for 2-days as we square away logistics

We have showered and now we’re are off for a walk around the base, following the not-to-scale rendering to locate some of the base’s finer attractions (shortened by raindrops) and to get something to eat. We had passed on the served dinner at 2 am on the plane (sleep was more important at the time) and the breakfast snack was crackers and cheese (Pat’s very favorite – Yeah, right!), roasted almonds, and an Oreo cookie. I guess the fruit and veggies failed to make the flight. So stomachs were growling in early evening.

photo After checking out the wares at the Ramstein Farmers Market in the AAFES concourse, we stopped at Roma’s Macaroni Grill for a glass of wine, calamari (pretty good by the way, maybe best calamari in Germany), salad. And, for Pat, grilled lemon chicken kabobs with a bit of heat from red pepper and grilled vegetables was the choice. Mike’s choice was a chicken and sweet corn carbonara pasta. Next wash the sweat out of our travel clothes in preparation for the next six weeks.

Posted in Germany, Ramstein Air Force Base, Restaurants, Space-A, Space-A Travel | 1 Comment

Let the Fun Begin – Off to Europe

Morgan awaiting Departure

Morgan awaiting Departure

We have departed Richmond, Virginia for our Journey which begins in Landstuhl Germany (Ramstein AFB).  The three of us (Pat, Mike and Morgan) are in the car headed to Chantilly Virginia to drop off Morgan (the dog) at

Hope they love Morgan as much as shoes!

Hope they love Morgan as much as shoes!

Tessa and Natalie’s  house so they can test drive being responsible dog owners.  Then we head over to BWI’s AMC Terminal to see if we can catch a hop to Germany.  There are flights leaving Saturday (today) and Monday, also Tuesday, but if we cant get out on Monday we may have to head to Dulles for a commercial flight (Ouch!).  Wish us luck!

 

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The Planning has begun for the October Trip

River Queen

The River Queen: A regal, art deco boutique cruise ship (recently rated #1 ship in the entire cruise industry in the 2012 Conde Nast Traveler Readers’ Cruise Poll)

 

This October, actually late September we are off for Europe with friends Shoe and Carol. The trip and itinerary is pretty much complete, at leas the big decisions.  Of course there will be minor changes along the way but we now have a good idea as to there we will be when.

Pat and I will depart the USA  on or about September 28, 2013 via Space-A, Shoe and Carol will be using commercial air. Continue reading →

Posted in Amsterdam, Bernkastel-Kues, Breisach, Cochem, Cologne, Germany, Hesse, Koblenz, Moselle River, Paris, Ramstein Air Force Base, River Cruise, Rudesheim, Space-A, Space-A Travel, Speyer, Strasbourg, Switzerland, TGV | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

A Baguette is not always a good Baguette

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Rachel Khoo’s favorite places in Paris

My favourite places in Paris, by Rachel Khoo

Check out the map

Restaurants

75001
Verjus Wine Bar 47, rue Montpensier
The brainchild of Braden and Laura of Paris’s supper club Hidden Kitchen, head here for an excellent selection of small plates, such as morsels of buttermilk fried chicken and celery root dumplings.
Spring 6, Rue Bailleul
Executing a five-step tasting menu from a totally open kitchen, American chef Daniel Rose and his team offer an inventive and thoughtful dining experience just a stone’s through from the Louvre.

The Beef Club 58, rue Jean Jacques Rousseau
Opened in early April by the team behind The Experimental Cocktail Club, The Beef Club is modeled on an Anglophone steak house and is serving up Longhorn beef sourced from Yorkshire by Ginger Pig.
75002
Frenchie 5-6, Rue du Nil
Ex-head chef of Fifteen Greg Marchand’s table is one of the hardest to get in the city. Head here for the fresh and innovative market menu and casual, but fun atmosphere.
Frenchie Bar a Vins 5-6, Rue du Nil
Following the success of Frenchie restaurant comes the equally sought out spot at the no reservations wine bar.
Blend 44, rue d’argout
Blend burgers are the talk of the town, based on a special blend by boucher boheme, Yves-Marie le Bourdonnec.
75003
Breizh Café 109, Rue Vieille du Temple
Home to Paris’s finest crepes, Breizh cafe uses top quality ingredients to create a range of highly original buckwheat savoury galettes.
Candelaria 52, Rue de Saintonge
Tacos, tostados and huevos rancheros are among the Mexican offerings at this busy eat-in, take out and cocktail bar in the Haut Marais.
75006
L’Avant Comptoir 9, Carrefour de l’Odéon
This little wine bar must be up there with my little Paris kitchen as one of Paris’s tiniest cooking establishments.
Le Comptoir 9, Carrefour de l’Odéon
Often hailed as the father of the bistronomique movement in Paris, Yves Camdeborde’s modern take on the bistrot makes the most of the nose-to-tail philosophy and at the weekend offers good bistrot fare at reasonable prices
75007
La Fontaine de Mars 129, Rue Saint-Dominique
This traditional Parisian bistrot is known for its hearty French fare.
75010
Le Verre Volé 67, Rue de Lancry
The perfect cave á manger, with natural wines and a short market menu, this fun wine bar is a Canal Saint Martin favourite.
Bob’s Juice Bar 15, Rue Lucien Sampaix
When I need a break from French food I like to pop by Bob’s for a juice and a healthy salad from Mark’s New York style eatery.
Youpi et Voilà 8, rue Vicq d’Azir
A colourful modern bistrot by self taught chef Patrice Gelbart.
Albion 80 rue Faubourg Poissionière
An expat team who met at Saint Germain’s Boissonerie recently opened this oenologically-orientated bistrot in a trendy part of town.
75011
Rino 46, Rue Trousseau
In this pocket-sized bistrot chef Giovanni Passerini offers a modern French menu with a strong Italian influence.
Septime 80, Rue de Charonne
One of my favourite places to eat in Paris for its colourful, artistically executed set menu.
Le Bistrot Paul Bert 18, Rue Paul Bert
Perhaps one of Paris’s worst kept secrets, this neighbourhood bistrot dishes up all the French classics in a quintessentially Parisian setting.
Aux Deux Amis 45, Rue Oberkampf
This quirky ex-Tabac attracts hipsters and locals alike who cram into the tiny space to swig natural wines and share plates of French ‘tapas’ in a fun and unpretentious setting.
Le Chateaubriand 129, Avenue Parmentier
A neo-bistrot with a cutting edge no choice 5 course dinner menu; Inaki Aizpitarte is hailed as one of Paris’ coolest chefs since Le Chateaubriand opened in 2008.
Le Dauphin 131, Avenue Parmentier
Inaki Aizpitarte’s trendy tapas bar designed by Rem Koolhaas opened to an enslaught of adoration from chefs and critics and offers an eclectic mix of high-end sharing plates.
Au Passage 1bis, passage de Saint-Sebastien
Part of the new breed of neo-bistrots offering natural wines, sharing plates featuring excellent ingredients and a laid-back atmosphere.
Le Grain de Riz 49, Rue Godefroy Cavaignac
This tiny Vietnamese restaurant serves genuine delicious Vietnamese food with a warm, friendly smile.
Chez Aline 85, Rue de la Roquette
Chez Aline is a fabulous little lunch place where Delphine Zalpetti (ex Le Verre Volé) cooks up fresh simple dishes. It is a great place to head for a mid-week lunch.
75012
La Gazzetta 29, Rue de Cotte
Petter Nilsson is one of Paris’s most celebrated chefs and his restaurant La Gazzetta offers an inventive market based menu at affordable prices.
75018
Le Bal Café 6, Impasse de la Défense
An Anglo-inspired eatery offering great coffee, an exemplary kedgeree and an ideal terrace for an aperitif.
75019
Le Baratin 3, rue Jouye-Rouve
Off a little sidestreet in Paris’s second Chinatown Belleville, you’ll find this restaurant serving simple, tasty French food and a great selection of wines.
Que du Bon 22, Rue Plateau
A casual neighbouhood bistrot with a daily changing market menu at great prices.
Shops
75001
Mora 13, Rue Montmartre
This store is a must for any budding chef. A little pricey, but all the products sold in the store are of great quality.
E.Dehillerin 20, Rue Coquillière
Head to E.Dehillerin for everything you might want in the way of kitchenware; difficult to leave without and armful of copper pans, patisserie moulds and random knick knacks.
75002
G.Detou 58, Rue Tiquetonne
A treasure trove of ingredients with everything you can imagine from foie gras to 10k bags of chocolate buttons.
75003
Mary’s Ice Cream 1, Rue Charles-François Dupuis
Gelato lovers are well-catered for at this authentic little Italian gelateria run by Mary Quarta. I go here for the freshest raspberry sorbet in town.
75006
Grom 81, Rue de Seine
The only French outpost for the Turin-born gelateria, Grom is one of the city’s best ice cream shops.
75007
Brasserie aux PTT 54, rue Cler
The charming oyster man from episode 5 sells his oysters from his stand opposite this bar.
Marie-Anne Cantin 12, Rue Champ de Mars
Fromage aficionado Marie-Anne Cantin is a renowned cheese seller and refiner.
75009
La Chambre des Confitures 9, rue des Martyrs
A gorgeous little boutique on a very foodie street, stocking a fabulous selection of extensive collection of jams, chutneys, confits and spreads for slathering on your baguette.
75011
La Cocotte 5, rue Paul Bert
A quirky little store selling cute aprons, tea towels and other cutesy kitchen items.
75019
Ma Cave en Ville 105, Rue de Belleville
Everyone needs a trusted wine seller, and this is mine! A great selection of wine featuring a number of hard-to-find organic and natural wines.
Cafés/Bars
75001
Le Télescope 5, rue Villedo
This brand spanking new cafe is part of the new wave of excellent coffee shops transforming the Parisian cafe scene.
O-Chateau 68, Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau
The brainchild of sommelier and social commentator Olivier Magny, O-Chateau is a classy wine bar.
75004
Le Caféothèque 52, Rue de l’Hôtel de ville
One of the key players in the transformation of Parisian coffee culture, Le Caféothèque serves exceptional coffee and sells beans to go.
75006
Da Rosa 62, Rue de Seine
Hand sliced iberico can be nibbled over a glass of wine and some Italian olives on this excellent terrace for people watching.
75007
Coutume Café 7, Rue de Babylone
Siphon coffee and Patisserie des Reves pastries are all on the menu at this chic little coffee shop with an Anglo-American feel.
75012
Le Baron Rouge 1, Rue Théophile Roussel
A bustling cheap and cheerful wine bar that is perfect for a post-Aligre market carafe of wine and a plate of shucked-to-order oysters.
75019
Café Cherie 44, Boulevard de la Villette
This is my local hangout, where I head for fresh mint tea during the day and chill out over a glass of wine in the evening.
Rosa Bonheur 2, allée de la Cascade
In the park Buttes Chaumont this bar-cum-cafe is a chilled out place with outdoor picnic benches.
Bakeries/Pâtisseries

75001
Angelina 226 Rue de Rivoli
So it is a little touristy, but this Parisian institution serves some of the thickest hot chocolate in town.
75003
Jacques Genin 133, rue de Turenne
Head to his salon de the for a degustation of his delicate chocolates or try one of his assembled-to-order millefeuilles, one of the best in town.
Popelini 29, Rue Debelleyme
Since Popelini opened its doors knowing where to go for the best choux in Paris is a no-brainer.
Pain de Sucre 14, rue Rambuteau
Part of the new breed of boutique patisserie in Paris, Pain de Sucre sells macarons and elaborate reinvented classic pastries.
75006
Pierre Hermé 72, Rue Bonaparte
Arguably one of Paris’s most important patissiers, Pierre Hermé is famous for reinventing the macaron with his quirky sweet and savoury pairings.
75007
Patisserie des Reves 93, Rue du Bac
Everything created by Philippe Conticini is so beautifully presented that it nearly looks like a jewel shop. Try Le Paris Brest.
75010
Du Pain et Des Idées 34, rue Yves Toudic
‘Le Pain des Amis’, a rustic sourdough with an epic smoky crust, is the brainchild of baker Christophe Vasseur, who supplies the city’s leading restaurants.
75011
Le Blé Sucré 7, Rue Antoine Vollon
At this neighbourhood boulangerie discover beautiful breads, exemplary cannelé, and a range of pretty patisserie.
75018
Boulangerie Gontran Cherrier 22, Rue Caulaincourt
Gontran Cherrier is not only charming but he bakes fantastically innovative bread, like his squidgy squid ink buns.
75019
Veronique Mauclerc 83, Rue de Crimee
This local boulangerie headed by Veronique Mauclerc offers a variety of breads studded with nuts and raisins as well as a good selection of organic breads.
Picnic spots
75004
Place des Vosges
When it comes to picturesque picnic spots, the perfectly symmetrical Place des Vosges offers a quiet getaway from the Marais crowds. Grad a world famous falafel wrap from the rue des Rosiers and enjoy by the fountains.
Ile Saint Louis
So it’s not always easy to get a spot here in the height of summer, but if you manage to you can while away the afternoon with views onto the Hotel de Ville, Notre Dame and the Seine.
75008
Champ de Mars
In the shadow of one of the city’s most iconic structures, join the hoards of other picnickers for an unbeatable view of the Eiffel Tower.
75010
Canal St Martin
When Spring finally arrives and the leaves are back on the trees, the Canal St Martin comes into its own with a fun crowd of drinkers spilling out from the bars onto the cobbled canal banks.
75019
Buttes-Chaumont
Not purely due to its proximity to my flat, but the Buttes Chaumont is one of my favourite picnic places in Paris. One of the few unmanicured parks in the city, this is one of the most charming parks to jog, picnic and play.
Markets
75003
Marche des Enfants Rouges 39, Rue de Bretagne
This enclosed market in the trendy haut Marais is said to be one of the oldest in Paris.
75012
Marche d’Aligre, Place Aligre
Open all week long except Mondays, the Marche d’Aligre is one of Paris’s most bustling markets.
75017
Batignolles
An organic market open on Saturdays.
75016
Marche Place du President Wilson
Head to this open air market on Wednesday or Saturday and you’ll find the famous Joel Thiebault and his beautiful heritage root vegetables grown just a few miles from Paris.
75019
Boulevard de la Villette
My local market which I hop down to on a Wednesday morning to stock up on delicious farm eggs and cheeses.

Posted in Bakeries, Cafe, Food Sources, Restaurants, Shops | Leave a comment

Restaurants in Paris

Restaurant List (March 2012)
(The star rating is ours and ours alone and is only our opinion)


La Cordonnerie ✩✩✩✩
20 rue Saint-Roch (1st arr.)
Traditional french food

Cafẻ du Centre ✩✩
58 rue Montorgueil (2nd arr.)
Cafe/bistro fare

La Pointe Saint-Eustache ✩✩
1 rue Montorgueil (2nd arr.)
Great Service with a great people watching location in Les Halles

Aux Tonneaux des Halles ✩✩✩
28, rue Montorgueil (2nd arr.)
Traditional French bistro food, good menu

Restaurant L’epicerie ✩✩✩
30, rue Montorgueil (2nd arr.)
Traditional  French Food, good menu with changing plats

Café du Marche ✩✩
30 rue Cler (7th arr.)
Bistro food, very busy place on a busy market street

L’ AS du Fallafel ✩✩✩
34, rue des Rosier (4th arr.)
Paris’s most famous falafel joint, this restaurant is item number two on David Lebovitz’s list of 10 Insanely Delicious Things You Shouldn’t Miss in Paris—pretty high praise from a discerning Paris blogger. Lunch here is definitely an experience, not just because of the sandwich; it has the longest line, the most boisterous staff, and photos of Lenny Kravitz (apparently a loyal customer) on the walls.

Le Bistro de la B  ✩✩✩
9 rue de Bievre (5th arr.)
There are a huge number of restaurants crammed into small streets near Bd. St. Michel, but we wanted a more Parisian experience and found Bistro de la B. at 9 rue de Bievre a few blocks west of the touristy area. Only a block from the river, this small restaurant was delightful. The menu of 3 courses was reasonably priced and the service warm.

Le Paul Bert ✩✩
20 Rue Paul Bert, 93400 Saint-Ouen, France
(Just outside the city by the famous Marché a Puce)
If you’re wandering around the fleamarket at Clignancourt, this is the place to stop and have lunch or a snack. Attached to the Paul-Bert market building, this pub has existed as long as the fleamarket (and has since been renovated!). Traditional cooking with nice little dishes of stews served in pots, like chicken broth or rabbit with mustard sauce.  Fills quickly!

Le Relais de l’Entrecôte ✩✩✩
3 location in Paris (6, 8, & 9th arr.) We eaten in all 3 locations
Le Relais de l’Entrecote is a must dine in restaurant in Paris.  You start with their lovely Endive Salad followed by their famous Rib Steak cut thinly and served with the best fries you have ever had, next to La Cordonnerie, of course. The steak is serverd with the Entrecote’s secret sauce! If you like your steak well done, beware that you may not get your steak as well done as you like it. You can also choose from a great selection of deserts. No reservations so go to the restaurant.

Café du Metro ✩
67, rue du Rennes (6th Arr.)
Good location, avoid the pasta dishes they did not loo that good.

Al Taglio – Pizza  ✩✩
27, rue de Saintonge (3rd arr.)
I immediately knew I would like Al Taglio as soon as I walked in because I like sitting at high counters. Although there are tables overlooking the small square outdoors, there’s something about sitting on a high stool at a communal table that’s always been my very favorite way to eat. You buy the pizza by the kilo.

Le bon Pêcheur ✩✩
9 Rue des Pêcheurs (2nd arr.)
This is our new place  to go for moules and frites, better than Leon du Bruxelles and less expensive.

Victoria Station (Pizza/Italian) ✩✩✩
11 Boulevard Montmatre (2nd arr.)
Dining car, you are installed in small cabins train version “Wild Wild West”.
Imagine the caravan of James West!
Isolated as a light atmosphere, enjoy a barbecue honest, escalopes Milanese and pizzas to delicate perfume of charcoal, from their wood fired oven.
For cheese lovers of fine paste, jump on the “pizza with goat” (and only the goat!) With ham and fresh cream: it changes us pleasantly of the four traditional cheeses.  There pasta is good as well.

Posted in Bistros, Cafes, Brasseries, Paris 1st, Paris 2nd, Paris 6th, Paris 7th, Saint Ouen | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Winter Travel Tips

I think I have finally gotten it right for traveling in the winter with just one suitcase, and visiting the laundromat only every 10 days or more.

First, decide on a good dark color to form the basis of your wardrobe. I chose black. Navy blue, charcoal grey, brown are other great choices.

Second, pick out a comfortable pair of slacks for travel, pack only one more. I chose black jeans, material is heavier, more durable, and black does not look as casual as blue jeans. I added a black skirt, or you could add one more pair of slacks. Rotate wearing your slacks every day, leaving the ones you are not wearing hanging in the closet to air out.

Shoes, wear one pair, comfortable, easy on/easy off for airport security. Take only one other pair. This is in case you get caught in the rain you’ll be able to have dry feet the next day. Alternate your shoes every day. Make sure they are both comfortable walking shoes.

Tops! It is winter after all. Pack three turtlenecks, a short-sleeved t-shirt, a sweater. Hang these in your closet and rotate through them – wearing t-shirt, turtleneck, and sweater – on really cold, cold days. Wear the sweater when you need it under your coat, usually evenings.

Socks! One pair of leggings which can actually serve as long johns on cold days under your jeans or wear stylishly with your skirt for a dressier look. 5 pairs of other socks to rotate through twice before you have to do laundry. But, as for underwear, I like to take a dozen.

How do you keep the rotation of items you take with you in order? Here’s what I did….

Hang your shirts on the left facing left. Next hang your skirt, if you take one, or else hang your slacks. When you dress, remove the shirt on the left and the slacks on the left. When climb into your jammies after a day of sightseeing, hang the shirt to the right of your other shirts, and your slacks to the right of your other slacks. If you stick to this rule, you will never wear the same clothes on sequential day

 

Posted in Safety, Travel Documents, Travel Tips, Wardrobe | Tagged , , | Leave a comment