First Sunday: Louvre is FREE

Winged Victory of Samothrace at the Louvre

Our morning started out a very predictable visit to the Sunday Boulevard Grenelle market, at least for us. Held every Wednesday and Sunday, this market under the elevated tracks of the Metro between stops La Motte Picquet and Bir Hakeim has everything under the sun. Fish, meat, game, cheese, bread, sweet treats, household items, clothing items, flowers – everything one needs. Here you will find the older generation of Parisians completing their shopping. Much of the younger generation has resorted to the more efficient grocery stores like Franprix or the Monoprix, but today even they are in evidence.  Some vendors are clearly more popular than others, there are long lines waiting to be served. And, just because there is a line, it doesn’t mean that the pleasantries between the vendor and their regular customers will be cut short.  This is the market where we purchased a roasted chicken once and the two brothers running the stand, broke into song – a trick they do for every tourist who purchases from them. Here’s a few samples of items for sale:
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A Saturday in Paris shopping/window shopping

It Saturday morning here in France and while the rest of you are still in bed getting your beauty sleep Pat and I are up early, well early for us and out the door.  We are head out to checkout a couple of flea markets.

We took the metro from Etienne Marcel to Ledru-Rollin to the Vintage clothing, second-hand goods & fresh produce market at Place d’Aligre and rue d’Aligre, between rue de Charenton and rue Crozatier (Arr 12).

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How to Fritter a Day Away

The day began a little late and I was behind on blog posts. So I finished up Thursday’s post before we headed out. I had been remarking about the unusual signage used by some of the merchants in rue Montorgueil and decided to take the time to photograph them before our day really got underway and I was side-tracked. So I walked up through the market street, and here are the best of the best.

Stohrer's, the bakery started by Marie-Antoinette's bakery

Where our fruit and vegetables come from...

Reading the newspaper in a cafe

Maison Collett, our bakery of choice

Guess what they sell here

I covet this suitcase

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Just what is a Salon de l’Agriculture?

Thursday, March 1, was a pretty full day and I never got around to documenting what we did. When last we dined at Hugo’s, he mentioned we should check out the agriculture show taking place at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. Hummmmm, just what exactly would an agricultural show in Paris be? By the way, it ends March 4th!
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Waaf & Miaou

Floor to ceiling dresses, coats, jackets, and accessories for your favorite dog or cat

After sharing a coffee and meeting with Kathryn Brown, an American living in Paris, we headed over to rue de l’Opera to the dog and cat store, Waaf & Miaou, we discovered on a previous visit.  This tiny, little shop is filled with all things dog and cat. Last time, the store greeter, a little white Westie, was wearing a very cute jacket with SECURITE embroidered on the back. It was styled like a satin jacket that security staff at a concert might wear.  I decided I wanted one for Morgan, but, alas! they don’t stock it any more.

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Musee de l’Eventail

Don’t get out your French-English dictionary, l’eventail is French for “fan.” Being a fan resident, I just had to go check it out.  It used be open only on Tuesdays from 2 to 5, but is now open M,T,W from 2 to 6. There is an admission fee of 6 euros.  It is hard to find, located at 2 Boulevard de Strasbourg marked only by a brass plaque by the door.  You have to ring to gain admittance to the building then go up to the 3rd French floor to a small working atelier or workshop where antique fans are restored and new ones crafted.

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Cemetiere Pere-Lachaise and not much else

The day was bright and sunny and we decided to embark on a walking tour from our book “Walking Paris” titled Pere-Lachaise to Buttes Chaumont. Starting the day in a cemetery may not seem like fun, but since William Miller, the owner and builder of our house, was a marble worker responsible for some of the stones in Hollywood Cemetery back in Richmond and since we have, over time, developed an affinity for such places, we said why not?

The cemetery was beautiful. But the walking tour is impossible without a GPS equipped device to reinforce or guide you to the correct path.
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Sunday: All Over the Map

Brocante Market at Porte de Vanves on a Sunday Morning

Brocante Market at Porte de Vanves on a Sunday Morning

The flea market at Ponte de Vanves in the south of Paris is a market that is much less structured, more unorganized, and with more frugal finds than the one we visited yesterday. Essentially, the vendors set up tables on the sidewalk — or lay their wares on the sidewalk. One even hung a painting on a nail in a tree. (don’t laugh, however, that is how I found the couple in the oval frame over the bed in the Touch of France room – hanging on a nail on a tree at a brocante market in the south of France). So we set off to scour the market to see whether Mike might find a cherub to use as a mold or model for a project he has planned.
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A Favorite Haunt: Le Marche Aux Puces

One of the passages through the few market on the northern outskirts of Paris

There is no better way to spend a Saturday than wandering the flea market located in St-Ouen, just outside the Peripherique at the Clingnancourt metro stop.  Unless, of course, you’re buying! But you do have to thread your way past the cheap goods like sneakers and knock-off’s to get there. This a packed market, crowded with tourists and therefore expensive. There are better buys out there, but they may be a little harder to come by and the inventory may be a little spottier. This time it appears that they have found a source for many reproductions, but the marked price is indicative – you would never find a real Louis piece in mint condition for 1000 euros – even in this economy.  The market is made up of multiple markets some in buildings, some in stalls like the Marche Vernaison.  Whenever I was allowed, I took photos. Here they are…..(by the way, you can click on the photos to make them larger to see the detail….)

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Bastille and Faubourg St-Antoine and the Champs de Mars

The circular walk we programmed for today started at the Bastille and toured through Faubourg St-Antoine. We took a little detour on the Promenade des Plantes. The Bastille Opera was built on the site of an old railway station, Gare Vincennes. The city of Paris converted an old elevated viaduct that was a railway to a an elevated park, similar to the one in NYC. It extends 4 miles through a neighborhood, quaint and Parisian on one side and contemporary on the other. The plantings range from wild and carefree to trimmed rose arbors (we could only imagine their beauty….)

This column in the Place de la Bastille, memorializes the 180 Revolution: 504 dead were placed in an ossuary under the column. The gilded Spirit of Liberty is atop the bronze column. Visitors used to be able to climb its 230 steps, but now it is closed.

We left the promenade and headed back to Bastille to rejoin our walk – the area below the viaduct within the arches has been converted to workshops, studios, galleries and shops. What a great reuse of space!
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