Paris

The day began with 10 MPH winds out of the SWS, probably left over from the hurricane that hit the UK.  A quick walk down the street to the boulangerie for the morning pastry started the day.

We departed the apartment in different directions, Shoe and Carol were off to the seed store, shoe store and Museums. Pat and I were headed to Guerlain

The little black dress

for a resupply of perfume (La Petite Robe Noir). With that task completed, we headed to the 16th arrondissement to the neighborhood know as Passy. The 16th, not quite at elite as the 7th, and the 17th are upmarket residential with large apartments and wide avenues.

Typical 16th Arrondissement building

We decide to visit because it was chroniclized in a book here in the apartment called “A Family in Paris” by Jane Paech, about a couple moving to Paris.  After the visit we are targeting the area for our next rental in January/February 2014.

The Fish stall

We walked the center of life in the quarter, rue de Passy, and visited the local permanent market, with it’s two fish stands, several cheese mongers and a good looking butcher stall.

The butcher stall

We then headed down rue de l’Annonciation where all of the food shops are located to check them our as well.

Vegetables

During our walk we passed the Desgranges bakery, where the local artisinal breads are made on rue de Passy.  There is a there star restaurant here which may be worth a try if we can get a reservation on a future visit the name is L’Astrance, and the chef Pascal Barbot (not to do further research).

After exploring a bit more we decide to head over to the Marais for lunch at LAS du Fallafel for lunch, we never miss having falafels at least once while here.

After inch we had some shopping to do and a bit of window shopping and then headed back to the apartment to rest our feet.

A rotisserie chicken was on the menu for the evening so we walked over to rue Montegueil and reserved a chicken from the butcher for 7 PM and sat at Bianco and had drinks (2 for 1) until seven, collected our chicken and headed back to the apartment to prepared the rest of dinner of sauteed potatoes, haricots verts and of course the chicken.

Dinner of chicken, green beans and sautéed potatoes with onions.

Pat and I had grabbed a poppyseed baguette from Masion Collet earlier to accompany dinner.

Mike and Shoe preparing dinner

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Paris

First stop this morning, after the boulangerie – of course, was the Metro station to get Shoe and Carol’s weekly pass. Things are somewhat different, you no longer get an orange card, you have to have a passport photo and you have to buy a NAVIGO pass. Carol brought a photo, Shoe had to go into a Fotomat in the station and get his photo taken. After the administrative procedures of cutting the photos to fit, assembling the NAVIGO, and processing payment, we were finally on our way to take care of another errand.

Next stop the train station to purchase our tickets for Germany on Sunday! Mike tried to purchase them on-line, but the only option was to USMail them to our home in Virginia. We knew that wouldn’t work. We found the ticket office for the Trains Grande Ligne and took a number to wait our turn. Finally our number was called and we approached the counter. I had been rehearsing what to say in French over and over in my mind and the woman behind the desk was very tolerant and let me continue in French, even though she spoke English. Turns out tickets were cheaper in the station than buying them on-line! Who knew!

Tickets in hand, we went back to the Metro to head to the Latin Quarter for a cup of hot chocolate, at Cafe du Notre Dame, in the sun across from Notre Dame, which is celebrating its 850th anniversary. Next up a little shoe shopping at the Clark’s store. No bargains or necessities on display so we left empty-handed.

Next on our schedule Mike’s assorted food and kitchen supply stores around Les Halles. Of course, it was now one pm and they were closed for lunch. We stopped for lunch at Le Grille Montogueril. Then we visited MORA, E. DEHILLERIN, G. Detoux, and La Bovida. We saved A. Simon for another day. We strolled up rue Montorgueil looking for a roast chicken for dinner, but decided on fresh pasta instead!

Ravioli from the fresh pasta store with tomato and bocconcini 

Sitting around the table after dinner.

 

 

 

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Sunday in Paris October 27 2013

The morning was dark, gloomy, and raining pretty hard. Mike headed out to the small bakery down the street and brought back croissants for breakfast.

Our rolling shopping cart, perfect for shopping for groceries in Paris

We had a few errands to run, so off we went to the grocery store with our parapluies and our apartment’s rolling shopping cart, our first stop. We all decided that the Franprix close to us is much less desirable than the G20 located just across the street. We picked up a few essentials, hoping to get a roast chicken for dinner. Mike volunteered to take our purchases back to the apartment.

Next stop was the Rambateau Metro station where we renewed our NAVIGO passes for next week, beginning Monday. We were unable to get weekly passes for Carol and Shoe until Monday, even though I negotiated in my best French. By now the sun had come out, so we strolled down rue de Rivoli toward the WH Smith bookstore. However, the store didn’t open until 12:30. So we crossed rue de Rivoli to Tuileries to sit in the sun under bright blue skies.

The Eiffel Tower from the Tuilleries! Notice the bright blue skies!

Around 1, we crossed back over to WH Smith, but it had not opened. We walked up to Place Madeleine to have lunch and pick up some macarons from LaDuree. Then back to WH Smith, which had now opened so Shoe and Carol could pick up a map of Paris, but, alas, Shoe was unable to find interesting reading material.

Mike’s lunch!

Carol and Shoe headed over to the flower market on Ile de Cite, while Mike and I tried to find a roast chicken. But, by now, they were all gone! At Place Vendome, we passed a photography session of a wedding party. The bride’s gown was over the top and so was her make-up! Each of the bridesmaids’ gowns was different and elegant – it actually made me wonder if it was a magazine photo shoot not a weeding.  However, I was too self-conscious to take photos. So we headed back to the apartment and would meet up with our traveling buddies at Pere Tranquille! However, before our planned meeting time, they showed up at the apartment. Turns out – the plant/seed shop was closed today.

After a respite at the apartment and at an appropriate time for dinner in Paris, we headed out for moles and frites, after all, as you are very aware, we travel on our stomachs! Mapping our routes on GoogleMaps, we figure we clocked about 5 1/2 miles today!

Moules at Le Bon Pecheur

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On to Paris October 26 2013

We set our alarms very early to get up, pack the car and head to Basel, Switzerland to return our rental car. Since we were so early, we encountered little traffic on the way to and on the motorway and arrived in a Basel in plenty of time to pick up our train e-tickets for the train to Paris. We hopped a taxi over to the train station and Mike went to one of the ticket printing stations. Though he tried several times, he had no luck printing tickets. So, he got in line at the ticket window. After waiting his turn, he had the misfortune of getting assistance from an unhelpful agent. After many minutes, she informed him he had to pick up his tickets in the country where he had made the reservations. Mike made the reservations while we were on the Rhine River near Strasbourg, so would we have to get them in France or Germany? Fortunately, however, we were able to get tickets on the TGV to Paris leaving at 12:34pm and arriving at 3:37pm. The agent told Mike to cancel his previous reservations. We still aren’t sure that it would have been impossible to get our original tickets, especially if we used the e-ticket number.  After all, what good is buying a ticket on the internet, getting e-tickets, if they can’t be printed at the originating point of your destination?

With tickets in hand, we retreated to the brasserie in the station, for coffee and to access Mike’s Europe Rail account to cancel our other tickets. That effort, despite the claims of free Wi-Fi took over an hour.

We returned to the main station area to wait for the platform number of our train to be posted. When it came up, we headed up the escalator to find the platform. There was a local train sitting at the platform and marked on the sign, so rather than descend to the platform before the TGV was posted (we had that issue where the track changed at the last minute once before), we waited. The local train pulled out and the sign changed to our train.

We descended to the platform, checked the electronic message board and determined that second class was in the front of the train. The posted train configuration on the bulletin board showed just the reverse. We decided to pay attention to the electronic version not the paper version! We were assigned seats in car 11, the train came to a stop in front of us at car 17. Lesson number two for the day, there is a small section of second class seats at the rear of the last first class car, intended for those traveling with bicycles. We were assigned the seats that fold up to make room for bicycles, probably the most uncomfortable seats on the TGV. There were 16 seats in this tiny closed off section and the temperature quickly shot up. But never a conductor did we see to ask to make adjustments! Three hours later, we arrived at Gare Lyon in Paris!

We caught a cab to our apartment, 20 Montmorency 75003, a great floor plan with six huge French windows overlooking a courtyard. Two were in the living room, two in the den, two in one of the bedrooms. The den, living room, kitchen, dining were all open. Each of the two bedrooms had its own bathroom, one with tub and shower, other with shower! We settled in, made an emergency grocery list for the morning, and headed out to explore the neighborhood.

Our small bakery is down the street, grocery store is a short walk away. We strolled over to Les Halles, stopped at Pere Tranquille for a before dinner drink. We headed on to rue Montorgueil for dinner at Cafe du Centre. We had a rain shower or two, but walked back to the apartment in clear weather. We went to bed fairly early since we had gotten up early for our travel day!

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More Model Trains and a Brewery October 25 2013

Today’s adventures began with a trip through the sunlight Black Forest to Hausach to see a model train setup there. The building covered over 400 square meters and included 195 square  meters of HO-Gleisen model train track and trains depicting the Black Forest Railway from Offenburg to Hausach. The detail was phenomenal with 60,000 trees, tunnels, villages, train stations, countryside, farms, hot air balloons, roads, vehicles (trucks, buses, autos), a truck accident with first responders and a life-support helicopter, people, hikers, campers, motorcyclists, sheep, cows, horses, dogs, clothes on the line, street lights, even a building fire with police and fire trucks. The train engines were of many types with all types of cars, passenger cars with people in them, dining cars, freight cars, coal cars, fast trains, slow trains. The setup included lighting that took you from morning through the night. The main difference between this model train and yesterday’s, besides the gauge of the track and size of trains, was the focus. Yesterday’s focused on the handmade nature of the trains themselves, today’s focused on the landscape, the mountains, the tunnels, the valleys, the forests, etc. It was easy to be mesmerized and easy to see how addictive model trains can be.

We pushed on to Alpirsbach, where we visited the former Benedictine monastery that was originally founded in the 11th century. We walked through the museum, the cloisters and the cloister garden. The cloister is built from the red sandstone we have seen all over this part of Germany. The monks from this monastery passed the art of beer making to the community and it has been kept alive by the Glauner family through their Alpirsbach Klosterbrau.

Monastry

After lunch accompanied by an Alpirsbach brew, of course, we went on a tour of the Brewery Museum. Naturally, the tour was totally in German, but the exhibits were somewhat self-explanatory and to get in you had to take a guided tour offered only at 2:30.

19th Century bottling machine

The museum was opened in 1995, the 900th anniversary of the monastery. The first part of the tour showed us brewing in the 1890’s. The quality of beer depends on its malt, even as the barley grows in the field. This beer uses hops grown mainly in the Hallertau region around Ingolstadt, near Spalt, near Nurnberg. Alpirsbach claims to have water of exceptional quality and clarity – a soft spring water of absolute purity. We saw manual filling apparatus dating back to 1905, the origin of the red balls/pom poms on ladies bonnets, copper kettles, and a refrigerating machine built by Carl Linde in 1900. After the tour ended, we were treated to tastes of their beer and a film – in German. When the movie ended, the marketing/pr guy gave a short speech. Then he sat down with us and conversed with us for an hour in perfect American English.

Pat just could not help making fun of Mike

By the time we left, the sun was setting and shadows were setting in. We headed back to the rental to pack and get ready for our road trip to Basel, and the train trip to Paris in the morning.

It being our last night we made the decision to visit a local restaurant in Zell, based on recommendations from our hosts, Elmar and Dominique we chose to go to Restaurant Bráukeller, owned by the Pfeiffer family.  The menu was Mediterranean and traditional German regional recipes. Three of us selected Jagerschnitzel, with mushroom gravy and speatzel, Pat decided to try the John Dory with vegetables and potatoes. We had a young waitress that spoke excellent English and she had done a years foreign studies in Detroit and had just recently had a baby and moved back to Zell. The food was excellent, maybe the best since we got off the river boat.

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Riquewihr and Munster, France October 24 2013

The forecast was bright and sunny, so we decided to head farther west over the Rhine River to Alsace Lorraine. Mike’s affinity for exploring more of this part of France is probably due to the fact that the Rohde’s came from there.


We took back roads and byways out of the Black Forest, down the slopes to the Rhine, across the Rhine and into France. We meandered through farms and villages getting closer to the Vosages Mountains. The closer we got to the mountains, the slopes changed to vineyards, with the vines now turning yellow in the warm sun.

I place some of my brothers ashes in the fountain because the family is from Alcese Lorraine

We drove to Riquewihr, a picturesque touristy town that Mike now claims as his familial home. There is now a special bond with the fountain at the top of the square. It was much more pleasant today in the sun. The last time it was raining pretty hard. We checked out the half-timbered houses, peeked in shops, but stayed away from tasting more Reislings.

Christmas shops

 

 

Pat stopped at the Christmas shop and made some purchases of ornaments made in the region.

We left Riquewihr, headed toward Munster, the home of Munster cheese. We found a sunny terrasse in a brasserie in the center of town and enjoyed a cheese based lunch with a glass or two of rose while we waited for the tourist office to open. We hoped to find a farm, open to visitors, making Munster cheese. Alas, the cheese-making demos were at the Maison des Fromages at 11:30 and 2:30 – which we had missed.

We selected onion tarts for lunch with a glass of Rosé

We headed back across the Rhine toward Zell am Harmersbach and arrived 5:30. Dinner tonight will be sauerbraten, Mike’s style. We also had Figs with Caramel sauce and coconut macrons from France.

We had sauerbraten, red cabbage and carrots.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Clocks, Watches, Bikes, Cars, Miniature Trains, Traditional Costumes October 23, 2013

Rain showers in the forecast today encouraged us to stay closer to home and put museums on our to-do list. We headed out to Schramberg-Talstadt to visit the Auto-und Uhrenwelt, a 4000 square meter museum in a former factory dedicated to cars and clocks. The top 4th floor of the museum traced the development of clocks and their technology with clocks and watches from Junghans and the town of Schramberg. Junghans had even crafted running blocks and timers along with photo capability at the finish line in sports activities like running. The first clock we saw had carved wooden gears and rocks for weights, one of the last was a solar watch.

The third floor contained bikes, trucks, and exhibits from life in Europe in the post-war years. They even had a CARE package from the United States

Care Package from the United States.

Care Package from the United States.

that was sent to Schramberg containing powdered milk, powdered eggs, etc. We found a vintage hair salon, vignettes set up to represent the average home. The next two floors tracked the development of bikes, cars and trucks during the recovery period after WWII and the subsequent boom times.

Next we visited the miniature train museum across the street. The trains are 2 gauge in Germany (3 in England), the tracks are 2 1/2 inches wide. Each element was handcrafted, and there are no kits to assist in the effort. They had a fairy tale pastel train set up, complete with landscape, houses completely furnished and with lamps and lighting.

Next up was a coal yard and it’s associated trains. The entire middle of the room was taken up with a full scene with villages (a hotel with a bridal party celebrating on the porch), with country scenes (farms, fishing holes, movies being filmed, etc), with mountain scenes complete with rock climbers, and even beach scenes with bathing beauties. Of course, all through these scenes commuter trains rolled along, high speed trains whizzed by, work trains plodded on, old steam engine trains made their way.

Next up was the Autosammlung Steim, the Steim collection of cars tracing the history of the car over the last 100 years. The collection includes over 120 vehicles the Steim family has collected over the last 30 years and has been open to the public since 2007. Gems of the collection were the Maybach DS 8 Zepplin (1932), an Adler Le Mans racing car from 1937, and some sleek new cars.

On our way to Haslach, we stopped at Tina’s Truck Stop

Tina even spoke some English, very helpful.

for a bite of lunch – a first for us! In Haslach we visited the Schwarzwalder Trachtenmusem (a museum dedicated to the traditional clothing worn by the residents of the various towns and farms in the Black Forest. The museum is located in a former Capuchin monastery that dates back to the time of the Thirty Years’  War.

On our way back to Zell am Harmersbach, the showers ended and we saw blue skies in the west. We learned that Zell am H. was documented to 1139, and the thick town walls are still intact. We strolled its Main Street with its half-timbered buildings, shops, butchers, bakers, even a shop with traditional costumes and lederhosen. We found the Stork Tower, built in 1330. It used to be a jail where prisoners were kept and even has a dungeon. We slipped into the local parish church, and made our way to the other end of town to the Pilgrim Church to find it closed and under reconstruction. Pilgrimages to here go back as far as the crusades when people worshipped “Mary of the Rose.” Legend has it that a smithy was taken prisoner by the Moors and he asked Mary of the Rose to help him. He promised that if she did he would take the chains that shackled him to her shrine. Miraculously he escaped and kept his promise. During the Thirty Years War, the chains were going to be made into horseshoes to try to stop the pilgrimages. While the smithy was preparing to work the chains, they disappeared and were found hanging in the church where they had always been. So now, “Mary of the Rose” is “Mary of the Chains.” Naturally, the number of pilgrims increased.

Then, home to our rental!

 

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Baden Baden, Germany October 22, 2013

We headed north for about 50 km to Baden-Baden, which had been founded as a Roman bathing spot and was a favorite in 200 BC. It’s ideal location prompted the building of the Neo-classical thermal baths around the springs there in 1810. In the 19th century, bathing of this sort was very popular but has waned. Still Baden-Baden has an elegant air, with grand hotels, spas, manicured gardens, large villas and, even, upscale designer shops.

Trinkhalle is a 19th century building built along the Oos River, across the river from the town’s original footprint.Embellished with Corinthian columns and 14 murals, it now serves as a tourist office. Adjacent to the Trinkhalle is a small very green park that leads to the Kurhaus, the main venue for social and cultural events in Baden-Baden. It now includes a famous casino. Today they were hosting a conference for Allianz employees. Just outside the Kurhaus is a bandshell, empty today, but just waiting for some musicians.

We strolled through Kurgarten, an avenue of chestnut trees lined with expensive boutiques. We cut back over to old town across one of the many footbridges to find a lunch spot with terrace dining to enjoy the sun. Lunch ended up being more expensive than we expected, which diminished our fascination with Baden Baden somewhat. Who ever head of charging a cover charge for each person when everyone ordered wine at 8.50 euros each plus food! Seemed cheap to me.

We strolled the Lichtentaler Allee,

We strolled along the alley.

a 2 mile long promenade with the river on one side and park on the other, with great views of grand hotels and villas. We found the gonneranlage, a rose garden in art nouveau style hidden behind beech hedges with over 400 varieties of roses.

The Rose Garden in Baden-Baden

We searched to find a few in bloom and even found a couple playing cards at a table in the garden.

We stopped by Friedrichsbad, Roman-Irish Bath in historic surroundings offering thermal baths, steam baths, and massages. Unfortunately the original 2000 year old Roman Baths under the building were closed.

We headed out, stopping at a Kaufland grocery store on the way home.

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Lahr, Freiburg, Triberg, Germany October 21 2013

First stop on today’s schedule was west of us in the little village of Lahr. For three weeks in October, the town holds a chrysanthemum festival. In and around the town square, merchants and businesses decorate their street front facades with mums of every color. Some of the larger establishments create entire vignettes of facades, for example 8-foot tall peacocks, an artist’s palette and paints, even arches of mums. The creativity was inspiring. What a fun thing for a town to do to draw thousands of visitors from all over Europe — and, now from the United States, too!

We continued south to Freiburg, supposedly “blessed with the sunniest climate in Germany” – but where we ran into rain. We walked to the Gothic cathedral, the Munster, a commanding presence in the Munster Square, where a market was still going on. Unfortunately, the cathedral and its open work spire was surrounded with scaffolding. Freiburg has little streams or stone trenches through most of its streets called bachle. They originally provided water for animals, washing, and putting out fires, but today they were pretty dry despite the rain. We walked down Schusterstrasse, one of Freiburg’s best preserved medieval streets. Along many streets, especially Herrenstrasse, stone mosaics in the stone sidewalks at the entrance of shops and tradespeople are auxiliary signs. We headed for a microbrewery, Hansbrauerei Feierling (Gerberau 46), located on an old tannery street. We lunched there and sampled a brew! In the rain, we checked out the Martinstor, a town gate that has survived from 1202 on our way back to the car.

Next stop, over hill and dale, through farms and villages, even a timber mill or two, through the woods to the town of Triberg. Triberg is the undisputed capital of cuckoo clocks. Known for its pure air, it is now a health resort. But, back to the cuckoo clocks! We visited several showrooms of clocks; one even claimed to have a thousand! We found the shop of a master carver, Gerald Burger, who gave us a lesson in the finer details of cuckoo clock design and crafting. He has repeatedly won the Black Forest Clock of the year and has patented some innovative details. Luckily for our wallets, we have no wall space at home!\ www.kuckuck-nest.de

A view along a very narrow road with hills and dales.

A bright red house.

 

A huge cook clock

 

Our touring was coming to an end for the day and we headed home. Again, we took the back roads, narrow and winding with breathtaking views.

 

 

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Zell am Harmrmersbach, a day of rest! October 20, 2013

We arrived yesterday and did two days worth of grocery shopping because in Germany all stores, with the exception of the Bakery are closed on Sunday. After 3-weeks we were ready to do nothing, but alas laundry and meal preparation beckoned.

While the girls willingly did the laundry Shoe and I prepared the day meals. Breakfast was easy; coffee and cereal followed by lunch of Potato Leek soup which really fit with the rainy day. Dinner was rouladen, with egg noodles and red cabbage.

Rouladen, noodles and red cabbage.

See the recipe in our travel recipe section.  Of course we all ways use what’s on hand so the actual recipe prepared will differ slightly. The red cabbage was made with home made apple juice and honey from our host, Elmar, at the rental house. This was accompanied by several bottles of local wine at both meals.

On the agenda was to update the Places to Visit page and add a Travel Recipes page for those of you interested in the meals prepared.

In the afternoon Shoe and I walked into town to visit the ATM, this ATM allows you to select the denominations of Euros, very civilized, and then we checked out the bakery which on Sunday is only open from 8-10:30. Now that we’re off the river boat I’m craving some Kassekuchen (cheese cake).

Tomorrow the Mum festival in Lahr and other interesting things, be sure to check back with us.

 

 

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