Paris, Friday, 10 October 2008

Adrian  

Photo of ballon in Paris, France

Paris ballon from our apartment window

Pat and Karen in the square

Pat and her cousin Karen in the square in Paris

Pat with Rose

Pat enjots a glass of Rose in the apt.

Up early to the bells of the nearby church and the sun streaming in our bedroom windows!  After a quick breakfast of cereal and coffee, we headed over to Gare du Nord to meet Karen Ciejek, who was arriving on the Eurostar from London at 10:59 AM.  Karen’s train was only 1 minute late and we headed back to the apartment to leave her bag.

Mike prepared lunch and we chatted to catch up.  I glanced out the window and caught sight of a hot air balloon soaring over the rooftops.  After lunch, we walked over to the Eiffel Tower, walked along the Seine, crossed over the Alexander III bridge and went into Tuilleries gardens.  The gardens are still full of summer flowers (some quite faded) but much fuller than we usually see them in February.  It was almost 70 degrees and sunny so the park was full of people, tourists and residents alike.  We stopped at the terrace café in the park and had a glass of wine, people-watched and enjoyed the sun.

Hugo's

Dinner at Hugo’s restaurant a must do in Paris

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Paris, Thursday, 9 October 2008

After a great sleep, we had coffee and Mike finally had his almond croissant.  Of course, he had to shower, get dressed and run down to the bakery on the corner first.  We went to the grocery around the corner and stocked up with necessities.  But, we did not have access to a little grocery cart to haul everything back so we came back to the apartment laden like beasts of burden.  I called Hugo for a reservation for us tomorrow, so we could introduce Karen to La Cordonnerie.  We decided to walk to the Grand Epicurean near Le Bon Marche since it was a beautiful sunny day.  We picked up a few items, shared a sandwich in the park, and hopped the metro back to the apartment.  Since we were by the Monoprix, we slipped in for some cassis and Aligote to make kirs tomorrow night for Karen.  While we were there, we priced the grocery/shopping carts.  In the grocery part of the store, it was almost 50 euros – too pricey for us to leave behind in Paris at someone else’s apartment.  However, downstairs in the home goods, we found one for 19 euros!  We loaded our purchases in it, and headed back to the apartment, with a stop on the way for a baguette at the bakery.

Mike spent a long time noodling through our e-mail problem (we could receive mail but not send it!)  About 6 PM, we opened a bottle of rose – it was porch weather after all.  Later, for dinner we ate in fresh ravioli stuffed with mushrooms with a fresh tomato sauce.  I went to bed as Mike was still working on the e-mail problem.

 

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Dijon/Paris, Wednesday, 8 October 2008

 

It rained all night and is raining this morning as we gather our belongings and head up to the office to check in our boat.  While we are in the process, another boat with a Swiss family aboard, pulls in and decides to tie up adjacent to another boat rather than to squeeze into a space at the dock – even though their space was bigger than the space Mike pulled into.  At 9:30 AM the cab was waiting to return us to Dijon.  We loaded up our bags and off we went.  The drive took about 1 ½ hours, the driver dropped us at Shoe and Carol’s hotel where we dumped our bags.  Shoe and Carol leave tomorrow (Thursday at 10:30 PM on an overnight train to Milan!) so they had reserved a room at the Kyriad.

Since it was lunchtime, we headed into the center of town, stopped by the tourist office to get Shoe and Carol a map of Dijon, and headed over to Brasserie Les Ducs for lunch.  It was pouring rain, so eating out on the terrace was not an option.  It is that time of year when the French have turned on the heat and the heat runs, regardless of the temperature. When a closed in restaurant/bar/brasserie/bistro gets filled with people, it can get pretty warm; so eating outside is preferable if at all possible – even though that is where the smokers are.

Not letting the rain stop us, we walked around Dijon – as the rain picked up intensity and it rained harder, harder, harder.  By the time we got back to Shoe and Carol’s hotel, rain had soaked through our umbrellas, our rain jackets, our shoes and socks.  We were not a pretty sight and therefore no final photos were taken of the four of us together that last day.  We dried out for about an hour, and headed over to the train station where our TGV to Paris was scheduled to leave at 16:21.  We went over early so we could dry out a little from our walk to the train station before we packed into the train.  At about 16:04, they announced our track (I), so we left Carol and Shoe with hugs around, validated our ticket and boarded the train to find a young businessman with papers and computer spread out in our seats.  We verified the coach number and asked him to move.  The train ride through the countryside was full of fall color and beautiful, especially when the rain stopped about 15 minutes out of Dijon.  We passed farms, pastureland, small villages, and even a windmill farm generating electricity – but only half were spinning.

We arrived in Paris as scheduled, 17:59, meandered through Gare de Lyon to the connection to the Metro.  We purchased our week’s pass and headed to  the 14 to Madeleine where we changed to the 8 to Balard and got off at Le Motte Piquot, the stop closest to our apartment. All of this would have been easy going, except every escalator going our way (even at Gare de Lyon) was broken – so we lugged our suitcases up all those flights of stairs.

Paris Apt

Bedroom in our Paris apartment

 

Paris Apartment

Living room in the apartment

Paris Apartment

Hallway and dining room in the apartment

 

We easily found our apartment and settled in.  Long hot showers to get rid of the travel grime and to enjoy after those short “navy” showers on the boat.  We even have a hairdryer, after a week of no hairdryer, embarrassing photos, I am excited by life’s little conveniences. We divided up the dirty clothes into loads and actually washed two loads.

We went to a brasserie around the corner, Café le Piquet and sat on the terrace.  It is much warmer here in Paris, even in the evening than it was in Dijon and along the Soane.  Both of us had a glass of rose and salade campardarnge – expecting a light meal.  The bowls were huge and we left over half.  We went to the Monoprix, just before it closed to get milk and juice for the morning.  Then back to the apartment for a great night’s sleep.

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Seille River, Tuesday, 7 October 2008

 

Up early and we left Tournus at 9:20 AM.  We arrived at La Trunchere, at the mouth of the Seille River at 10:20 AM, the lock was open, the lockkeeper yelled to us to come on in, without dropping a crewmember off to see how to operate the manual lock. As we exited, we figured out why – there were four boats waiting to get in and the lockkeeper didn’t want to waste water or time.

At this point we are heading upstream instead of downstream, so the red buoys are on our left – of course, there weren’t any!  The Seille is a much calmer river than the Soane and not really very developed.  We cruised through much pastureland.  Our first lock to operate by ourselves was at Cuisery.  When we arrived the gates were closed, I jumped off the boat onto the pontoon and climbed up to the lock to reconnoiter the situation.  A boat had gone through, going the same way we went and left the lock full.  So I had to figure out how to let the water out of the lock: close the upstream gates, open the downstream sluice gates to let the water out to lower the level of water.  Then, once the water was out of the lock, open the gates on each side to let the boat in.  I waited on the side as Shoe and Carol threw the lines, looped them around the bollards, and threw them back for them to monitor, and then went to close the downstream gates.  Once they were closed, I opened the upstream sluice gates to bring the water level up.  But, I forgot to check the downstream sluice gates to make sure they were closed.  Lesson number one.  Once the situation was identified, it was easily corrected.  Soon the water was up and we had to open up the upstream gates and go on our way.

Photo - Pat at the Gate!

Pat closes the gate

Lunch at Cuisery

Lunch on the deck at Cuisery

Pat open sluce gates

Photo Opens the gates

Pat opens the gates at our first manual lock

Photo of lock in the rear window

We’re off with the lock in the rear-view mirror

Pat at the helm

Pat in charge again!

We stopped at Cuisery tied up to the dock and enjoyed lunch on the upper deck in the sun. We pushed on to make Branges before dark.  We arrived at Branges at 4:30 PM but the ship’s office was closed.  It was supposed to be open until 5:45 PM – but I guess that is the French way.  We did have a little difficulty docking, but Mike squeezed the boat into a space with only inches to spare.  After all our work, we walked up to the closest bar and enjoyed a beer on the terrace in the sun.  We walked around town, pretty bare of stores and necessities.  We all took showers aboard and then called for a taxi to take us to Louhans for dinner.

I asked the driver for a recommendation, and she drove us to Hostellerie du Cheval Rouge, 5 rue d’Alsace, Louhans, 71500.  Telephone: 03 85 75 21 42.  We enjoyed a fantastic meal, attentive service, and the hotel called our taxi and we had a ride back to the port of Branges.  All in all, we covered 41 kilometers and 3 locks today.

Back at the boat, we started preparing to gather our things and straighten up to leave tomorrow for our return trip to Dijon.  Around midnight we heard the pitter patter of raindrops on the roof.  We were glad we decided to come into the dock this evening and not wait until tomorrow morning – the day the boat is due at 9:30 AM.

 

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Soane River, Monday, 6 October 2008

 

We left Chalon-sur-Soane about 9:45 AM, after we filled our water tanks, and executed a flawless maneuver to pull away from the dock.  We rounded Ile-St Laurent and headed back into the main Soane and headed downstream.  The skies were promising, the weather warmer than we have experienced so far. We were approaching Gigny-sur-Soane a little after 11:00 AM, since we had little head wind and the current really improved our mileage.  Carol and I took the helm most of the time, until we got into tight spots and Mike took over.  We reached our last commercial lock just before the noon hour, the lock gates were open (a boat headed upstream had just vacated the lock), our lights were green so we entered the lock and looped our bow line around a bollard.  Our stern was too far away to loop a line, so as the water dropped, Mike gave the boat some forward thrust to keep the stern against the lock wall.  Again we were the only boat in this huge lock – almost 200 to 300 meters long.  When we vacated the lock, there was a line of boats waiting to enter and head upstream.  We passed several commercial enterprises along the shore, coal, gravel, etc.  The 30 kilometer trip to Tournus was completed by 12:30 PM.  We tied up to the city dock, ate Shoe and Mike’s soup that had been cooked underway.  After we cleaned up we headed into the city center to check out the town.  Since it was Monday, everything was closed, but we did get to visit the abbey of St Philibert.  A rain shower forced back to our boat, where we spent the rest of the afternoon, listening to doo wop CD’s and watching as Mike roasted a chicken for dinner, along with garlic mashed potatoes, and haricot vert.  We are now down to two bottles of wine.  Naturally, it rained most of the night as the front moved through.

Tomorrow we will enter the Seille River to continue our journey to Branges.  The Seille
is where we will encounter our last three locks – all manual and to be operated by us!

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Chalon-sur-Soane, Sunday, 5 October 2008

A Layover day in Chalon-sur-Soane.  Breakfast on board with eggs or omelets of choice with brioche toast and coffee.  Once the breakfast dishes were cleared, we grabbed our grocery bags and headed to the Sunday market in the center of town.  It was amazing to see the square by the church filled with vendors of all kinds.  We bought a roasted chicken and potatoes, bread, a tapenade with black olives and figs, cauliflower, haricot verts, pears to poach for dessert, celeric, turnips, and red onion.  On the way back to the boat we stopped at a bistro, sat outside in the sun and enjoyed cappuccino and hot chocolate.  Chalon-sur-Soane is by far the largest town we have encountered so far. We took advantage of the sun and breeze to hang our towels out to dry.  Shoe and Carol left for a walk around town, we hung out on the boat and relaxed in the sunshine.  For Sunday dinner we had roasted chicken (rotisserie) with potatoes and roasted cauliflower and way too much wine.

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Soane River, Saturday 4 October 2008

Using our WI-FI access key, Mike checked the weather, 42 now/up to 52 by afternoon, 60 tomorrow, 61 Monday.  He sent Emy an e-mail to respond to her voice mail.   Carol sent an e-mail to let everyone know where we are.  Shoe and I filled the tank with water again, wiped the windows down, and readied the boat to leave Verdun for Chalon.

We left Verdun- sur-le-Doubs about 10:45.  To reach out target Chalon-sur-Soane we needed to cover about 26 km – with no locks.  Shoe drove most of the way, paying strict attention to all of the various buoys and markers.  We passed a small town named Verjux, with a bridge across the river to Gergy.  Supposedly, a young woman lived in Verjux and her geese would cross the river to Gergy.  Since, at the time there was no bridge, she would have to walk to Verdun to cross the river to recover them.  When as an adult she married the fonder of the department stores Le Bon Marche, she built a bridge at Cergy to connect Verjus to better the life of her fellow citizens.

Pat and Carol provide detail instructions to Shoe!

Pat and Carol provide detailed instructions to Shoe from the back seat

Pat ready for a big lock

Pat is dress for the first 250-meter lock (life vest required)

Pat

Mike gets a photo-op of Pat

The way to Chalon was marked by shallows on each side of the river; and they were clearly marked.  At Chalon we rounded Ile-St-Laurent and found the marina, docking area behind it.  Even though signage said the captainerie was open all day, we found it closed – for the obligatory lunch hour we assumed.  At 2 PM, the secretary finally arrived and opened the office.  We paid for two nights stay, in slip number 125, a total of 17 euros, with water, electricity (which our boat was incapable of using), water fill-ups, showers, etc.  Once the formalities were consecrated, we wandered through Ile St-Laurent, crossed the Soane into Chalone.  The sun had come out, we had a glass of wine in the square in front of the church.  Walked around and took a gander at all the architecture, half-timbered buildings, 17th, 18th and 19th C architecture.  Last stop, the MOMOPRIX to lay in some supplies – especially wine.

Photo on the boat

The Kir is gone but plenty of Red Wine

 

 

Beef Burgundy

Boeuf Bourguignon for supper

Once back at the boat, Carol and I enjoyed a Kir Royale on the top deck in the sun.  Then showers for everyone and back into Chalon for a traditional Burgundian dinner. We found La Rotisserie Saint-Vincent, at 9 Rue du Ble. The menu for 23 euros consisted of fois gras and terrine or shrimp egg rolls, and we all choose the ballotine de poulet, a boned, chicken stuffed with green cabbage and lardons and wrapped in chicken skin to hold it in the proper shape. It was accompanied by roasted potatoes and green beans.  For dessert the choices were an apple tart with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce with raspeberry coulis or a gourmet dessert plate: chocolate cake, crème brulee, and poached pear (poached in cassis) with a raspberry coulis decorating the plate.  By far, this was the best meal we’ve had so far.  By now, the night chill had set in and we headed back to t boat to retire for the evening.

 

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Soane River, Friday 3 October 2008

 

We left St Jean de Losne about 9:45 AM after multiple rain showers.  Before we left Carol ventured into town to mail her postcard and to get a croissant for herself and Mike.  The skies were so threatening that she even took her umbrella.  W got underway with minimal chaos and headed downstream.  We had planned a full day of cruising, and needed to head out regardless of the weather.

We cruised through some bucolic countryside.  The difference between the Midi and the Soane is that so much of the land is dedicated to farmland – grazing cows and crops, few vineyards.
Burgundy Country Side
The Country Side of Burgundy
We entered the BIG Soane at the big gauge lock at Seurre.  From here downstream the river becomes wider and according to the cruising guide we have a better hance of running into commercial traffic.  We did not encounter big barges and almost felt we had the river to ourselves.  The first commercial lock was very different from previous locks, it was not automatic, it was manned by a lockkeeper, and the bollards were so far apart we had barely enough line to feed around the bollards to secure our boat while it dropped almost 12 feet.This part of the river is well marked with many markers all along the way.  There ended up being many diversions (straight canal areas to shorten the overall traveling distance).  Our second commercial lock was not exactly what we expected.  We hoped that Shoe and I would step off onto the side of the lock, loop our lines around a bollard, and get back on the boat.  Unfortunately, the walls of the lock were too high, and the bollards too far apart and we were only able to secure one line.  We kept asking ourselves – why were the bollards so far apart – and then suddenly realized it was set up for commercial barges not pleasure craft.

The Big Soane

The Big Soane River

We left the Soane and entered the Doubs River where we moored (backed in, very competently I might add) at the municipal dock at Verdun-sur-le-Doubs. We made great time and arrived about 2 PM, going through 2 locks and covering about 37 kilometers. The dock fee included a refill of water this afternoon and tomorrow morning, and WI-FI access.

After we arrived, we ate lunch and then toured the town.  The town was established by the Romans in the 1st century AD.  The town is very picturesque and we enjoyed walking through the old part of town.  We found 4 bakeries and many shops – all closed until later in the afternoon.

When the captainerie opened at 4 PM, we paid our slip fee and obtained the key to fill our water tank.  More showers in the afternoon as Mike prepared traditional Beef Bourginone in the galley.

A “tres jolie” boat, Dutch-made, pulled in adjacent to us at the mooring dock.  It had a dark blue hull, its bumpers were actually a wound rope.  The captain and his wife were from Switzerland and sailing with their grand-daughter who was 5 years old.

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Soane River, Thursday 2 October 2008

Pat at the helm

Pat at the Helm

Shoe on the bow line

Shoe on the bow line in the lock

Pat on the stern manning the line in a lock

Pat on the line in a lock

The Soane River, Burgundy France

The Soane River

We set off from Pontailler-sur-Soane about 9:45 AM. There are places along the way, clearly marked on the chart, where the curves are so tight for the long barges that the circulation path moves boats to the left side of the channel.  Our first encounter was near Pontailler-sur-Soane.  But since we didn’t encounter another boat or barge it was of no consequence.  We encountered flocks of swans, lovely white cows grazing along the bank, kayaks, and scores and scores of fishermen and fisherwomen.  Navigating is fairly easy, the channel is well marked, there are plenty of directional signs, and, because it is October, there are only a few other tourists out here.  We passed through one deviation, a place where a canal has been cut to avoid a particular portion of the river that was simply beautiful.  Along each side was a row of trees, just beginning to turn yellow.  It was very much similar to the Canal du Midi, only wide enough for two boats and bordered on each side by a tow path now used as a bike and walking trail  We stopped in Auxonne for a walk-about after lunch aboard, but most everything was closed; so, we decided to leave the quay and head downstream.  We made it as far as St Jean-de-Losne, 37 kilometers and three automatic locks for the day’s total.   By now Shoe is an expert at turning the signal hanging in the middle of the river.  We passed one wayward tourist at the last lock who had wrapped a line around his propeller and the VNF (Voies Navigable Francais) folks had arrived in dive gear to unwrap it. We passed the cutoff to the Canal du Rhone au Rhine and seriously considered absconding with the boat and heading for the Danube.After we enjoyed a cold beer, we set off to pay for a “jeton” for water.

The place on the sign no longer sold them, so we headed on to the VNF office – who doesn’t sell them, but directed us to a small bar across the street from the church around the corner.  All, of course communicated en Francais.  Since the fee included electricity and we don’t have  a shore power hookup, Pat elected to forgo the jeton – much to the dismay of Mike and Shoe who were afraid we’d run out of water – even though the only water we have used so far is to wash dishes.  We’ll get water tomorrow after we’ve all had showers.

Carol finally bought a postcard fro her aunt; and we went to a TABAC and bought two “timbres” for carte postale aux Etats-Unis.  88-centimes.

Back to the boat where Mike made Potato-Leek soup and we all showered….

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Soane River, Wednesday October 1, 2008

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Shoe

Shoe in the office upon arrival

We had petit dejeuner at the hotel when we met Shoe and Carol at 8:30 AM.  After breakfast we organized our belongings to get ready for our ride/transport to Gray.  Our ride arrived at 10:45 AM and drove us directly to Connoisseur’s dock.  We arrived about noon.  We caught up with Ian Lambert, hoping to square stuff away for an early escape.  Ian, however, has lived too long in France.  We located an open grocery store, laid in some provisions, took our briefing and our practice drive, and were finally able to leave Gray at 3:30 PM.  Our first lock was right at the end of the Connoisseur’s dock, Shoe very aptly rotated the signal (a pole suspended from a cable in the middle of the canal); we followed the light signals, looped our lines over the bollards/cleats, activated the lock control, watched as the gates closed behind us and the level of the water lowered.  When the gates were fully opened downstream, we exited the lock and went on down the Soane toward Pontailler-sur-Soane, about 33 kilometers and 3 locks, taking photos along the way, especially when the clouds broke and the sun came out.  The locks close at 7 PM, and we squeezed through the last one about 6:50 PM.  We tied up to the City Dock,  walked to La Taverne for pizza and pitchets of wine.  After dinner, we toured the town to find a boulangerie for tomorrow’s breakfast croissant.

Our Boat for the week

Our boat for the week

Mike, the captain, studied the charts and planned the next day.  Shoe, the first mate, retired to the aft deck to smoke one of his cigars – that is until the rain chased him inside.

 

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