DAY 19 February 13, 2023

Posted on February 13, 2023 by admin

Roman Amphitheater

Our tour of Alexandrine history and culture continued with a visit to the Roman Amphitheatre. In 1965, a semicircular Roman amphitheatre was discovered under what was known as Kim al-Dikka (mound of rubble) after the remains of a Napoleonic fort were leveled for a housing project.  The 13 tiered rows of marble seats, excavated by Polish archaeologists aided by Graeco-Roman Museum, date to 2nd century AD. Originally a small theater, the building was altered over time to serve as an assembly hall. A couple of sections of original mosaic floor are on view. Other excavations are still underway. To the north lie brick ruins of a Roman bathing complex. A series of basins and channels reveal water would have passed through the heating system to marble covered baths. To the east lie ruins of a residential area dating from 1st century AD where the Villa of the Birds, a colorful 9 paneled mosaic was uncovered.

After, we returned by motorcoach to Cairo and checked into our hotel, located in the upscale Cairo suburb of Heliopolis, conveniently close to Cairo Airport. After a short afternoon to catch up on transferring photos on the hotels’ slow wifi, drink a final toast to our Egyptian journey during a Farewell Dinner at the hotel with our new found travel mates.  Our transfer to the airport, required us to have our suitcases out by 11:00 pm and to meet in the lobby to transfer to the hotel at 11:30 pmmfor 2:05 am flight to Frankfurt

 

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DAY 18 February 12, 2023

Posted on February 12, 2023 by admin

After breakfast, we began our exploration of Alexandria’s historical treasures. We started

From the bottom looking up

with the underground catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa (Mound of Shards), an extensive subterranean burial site that dates to  the Greco-Roman era of the 2nd century. Many of the features of the catacombs merge Roman, Greek, and Egyptian cultures; for example, some statues , reliefs, and frescoes are Egyptian in style, yet bear Roman clothes and hairstyles. The location of the site had long been lost and was only rediscovered in 1900 when an unfortunate donkey stumbled into one of the shafts. Dug into the rock to a depth of about 115 feet, the complex has three levels. However flooding has made the lowest level inaccessible. The catacombs are reached by a spiral staircase encircling a shaft down which bodies of the deceased were lowered. On the first level there is central rotunda and a large banquet hall, the triclinium, where friends and relatives gathered to pay their last respects. To the east of the rotunda is the Caracalla Hall, an older burial complex that became accessible from the main chamber when robbers broke through the wall. This area is dedicated to Nemesis, the goddess of sport. From the central rotunda, stairs lead down to a second story with a vestibule and burial chamber. Here the decorated sarcophagi and wall reliefs display a mixture of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman styles: by the doorway, Anubis, god of the dead, is depicted as a Roman legionary with a dragon’s tail. On either side of the burial chamber, below heads of Medusa, are carved two serpents wearing the double crown of Egypt. From the burial chamber, eerie passages lead off in all directions to rooms containing 300 loculi – small chambers for bodies.  Back above ground, the enclosure is strewn with sarcophagi and broken remains of sphinxes. In addition, a tomb from Tigard (about 5 miles away) has been relocated here and its frescoes are in excellent condition.

We visited Alexandria’s tallest monument, Pompey’s Pillar. Dating to the 4th century, it stands 100 feet tall and 30 feet wide and was hewn from a single block of red granite brought all the way from Aswan, almost 700 miles away. It was erected around AD 297 in tribute to Roman emperor Diocletian. On its base in Greek is written “to the most just of emperors, the divine protector of Alexandria, Diocletian the invincible: Postumus, prefect of Egypt. The monument’s popular name may have come from medieval travelers who thought that Pompey (Roman General murdered in Egypt in 48 BC) was buried here. But, the pillar came from the Serapeum complex which was built in mid 3rd century BC.  It is all that remains of the temple of Serapis which was once a repository of important religious texts and the “daughter” library of that of Alexandria. They are attempting to recover more of the site and you can see the bases of the columns of temple and visit the sanctuary.

Interior view of the ceiling

We visited the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, built in 2002 as a worthy successor to the lost Ancient Wonder of the Great Library of Alexandria, the extraordinary library and cultural center contains millions of books in English, French, and classical Arabic, as well as four museums, including a planetarium. The main library is encased in a giant cylindrical building at the northern end of the corniche. The circular outer wall is made of Aswan granite engraved with letters from all of the world’s alphabets. The partly glazed roof which tilts toward the sea is designed to angle sunlight on the desks of the 2,000 seat reading rooms, which we noticed were in extensive use today. 

Our day contained scattered showers, sometimes on the way in and sometimes on the way out and temperatures only 60 degrees as a high. We enjoyed a grilled seafood lunch at a seaside Mediterranean seafood restaurant. Then, we continued our exploration of Alexandria.

The museum exit

This afternoon, we ended our afternoon with the group with a visit to the Royal Jewelry Museum, home to the vast collections of jewelry (most collected from the mid 19th century to 1952) and acquired by the royals of Egypt’s Muhammad Ali Dynasty. The building was originally constructed for Mohammed Ali’s grand-daughter, Princess Fatima el-Zaharaa (1903-1983) and later used as a palace by King Farouk. Key pieces include a gold snuff box with Mohammed Ali’s name spelled out in diamonds, King Farouk’s gold and diamond-studded chess set, and a platinum crown glittering with well over 2,000 diamonds. The palace is decorated with stained glass vignettes of life in 18th century France. A Ladies bathroom is tiled with scene’s of nymphs bathing in Alpine surrounds; while the men’s is tiled with scenes of French fishermen and seagulls. Mike took a video of the bathroom!

The Four Seasons Hotel in Alexandria from the “beach”

Once back at the hotel, we took a walk to the beach in the sun and were confronted by a sand dune constructed to protect the beach level villas from the sea about 16 feet high. The grounds are beautifully manicured around these villas which are actually condominiums for the wealthy to spend the summer months in Alexandria, where the temperature is mostly in the 90’s.

Afterwards, we accessed a multi-story mall connected to the ground level of our hotel. It was a typical mall with a food court, shops, perfumeries, and even a fresh food grocery store reminiscent of the Grand Epicurean in Paris. Returning empty-handed, we decided to enjoy the remaining afternoon on our balcony and prepare for our departure from Alexandria tomorrow.

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DAY 17 February 11, 2023 – Alexandria

Posted on February 11, 2023 by admin

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Today we bid farewell to the Nile and the crew of the h/s Nebu, as we moved on to the city founded by Alexander the Great, Egypt’s port with a decidedly Mediterranean feel – though it was their coldest day of the winter when we arrived. After a flight to Cairo, lunch at a restaurant an hour out of Cairo and a bus ride through the countryside to Alexandria, we arrived at our boutique hotel overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. After checking into our sumptuous shorefront hotel (the Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria), we discovered a beautiful spacious room with a sitting and desk area, sleeping area, luxurious bathroom with tub and separate shower, and a balcony overlooking the heated pool and the Med. We met a few of our travel buddies in the bar/lounge, sipped some Egyptian rose (dry, good, cheapest wine on the bar menu and two for one during Happy Hour), and enjoyed a snack of calamari and shrimp for dinner

 

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DAY 16 February 10, 2023 – Back in Luxor

Posted on February 11, 2023 by admin

An optional balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings was offered – but it required leaving the ship at 5:00 AM – just a few days after we finally adjusted to the time changes. The day broke pretty hazy, since the wind was very light. We decided to pass.

Sphinx

Sphinx

Today, we explored the Karnak Temple complex. Said to be the world’s largest religious structure in area (162 acres), the vast Karnak Temple complex was built and used over a period of 2,000 years. At the heart of the immense complex is the Temple Amun, dedicated to the king of gods, Amun-Re, who was also the god of war and his wife, Mut, the goddess of motherhood, and their son, Khonsu, god of the moon. With its endless courts, halls, and colossi and huge sacred lake, the scale and complexity of this complex could be overwhelming. A row of sphinx’s create a walkway to the Nile. The temple’s exterior walls are covered with reliefs showing military scenes. The interior walls are carved with scenes of offerings.. Colossus of Ramses II, an imposing granite statue of Ramses II with one of his daughters at his feet, stands in front of the entrance to The Great Hypostyle Hall, where a monolithic forest of 134 huge columns is laid out in 16 rows. The largest are 33 feet around and soar to 80 feet in height. The hall has the basics of basilica architecture with a central hallway higher then its two side corridors.  

From its modest 11th dynasty beginnings, pharaoh after pharaoh added to and changed the existing buildings, seeking to leave their mark on the country’s most important temple. No expense was spared and during the 19th dynasty some 80,000 men worked as laborers, guards, priests, and servants. The temple was buried by drifting sand for 1,000 years before excavation began in the mid 19th century. Restoration is ongoing. The Great Festival Temple, behind the Great Hypostyle Hall was built by Tuthmosis II and was designed to resemble the tent he lived in while on his campaign in Syria. The Botanic Gardens, part of the temple built by Tuthmosis II, is a roofless enclosure decorated with bas reliefs of exotic flora and fauna he brought back to Egypt from Syria.  The Sacred Lake is where priests cleansed themselves with its holy water before performing rituals in the temples.  North of the lake is a huge stone scarab of Khepri built by Amenhotep III.

Sphinx lined avenue

Sphinx lined avenue

A walkway lined with rams-head sphinxes leads all the way from the Karnak complex to the 3,500-year-old Luxor Temple complex, we had visited a few days ago.

On the way back to the ship, we stopped at a papyrus factory, learned how papyrus paper is made from pieces of papyrus stem and visited a gallery where items were for sale. Mike videoed the talk about how papyrus paper is made.

The rest of the day was free-time: to have lunch, to pack to fly to Cairo and then go on to Alexandria, to sit in the sun on the roof deck, or just relax.

After dinner this evening, we were treated to a belly-dancing show on board ship. Famed for its controlled and precise movements, this gyrating art form is said to have originated in Cairo’s nightclubs before graduating to the silver screen. We were also visited by a whirling dervish.

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DAY 15 February 09, 2023 – Edfu

Posted on February 11, 2023 by admin

Early morning we left our overnight stop and headed to Edfu where we arrived about 8:30 AM. Before breakfast I was finally able to catch a sunrise photo! Horse-drawn carriages waited for us along the waterfront at Edfu this morning for the ride through this dusty small river town to the well-preserved temple of Horus. The largest temple dedicated to the falcon god, it is notable for the two stone falcons at its entrance and the huge relief figures on its façade.

Edfu Temple

Edfu Temple

The temple was built in the Ptolemaic Kingdom between 237 and 57 BC, but was literally lost beneath the sands of time as drifting desert sand and river silt deposited by the Nile buried it to a depth of 40 feet. Local inhabitants built their homes over it and, by 1798, when the temple was discovered by a French expedition, only the upper portions of the pylons were visible. The temple is of great interest because, despite relatively recent construction, it imitates much older Pharaonic designs. The imposing 118 foot high first pylon is decorated with scenes of Ptolemy XII defeating his enemies in front of Horus and Hathor. Two elegant black granite statues of Horus flank the entrance to the pylon, which leads to a large colonnaded court and the first hypostyle hall. Behind this is a second smaller hypostyle hall with chambers off to the side for gifts to the god before they were taken to the hall of offerings. Stairs from the hall of offerings lead to the roof (inaccessible) but the walls of the staircase are decorated with scenes from the New Year Festival a ritual celebrated in temples all over Egypt where priests carry the statue of the temple god to the roof to be revitalized by the sun. Beyond the hall of offerings is the sanctuary of Horus with its black granite shrine which contains a model of Horus’ sacred barque. Southwest of the temple lie the remains of Horus birth house.

Maged explained how the standard design of the temples is a physical representation of the ancient Egyptian story of creation. Why, for example, as you enter farther into the temple, the ceiling slopes downward and the floor slopes upward. The temple is of stone and usually surrounded by a mud brick wall so that if the Nile flooded and damaged the surrounding wall the wall could be easily or at least quickly replaced.  The palaces of the kings, residences of the notables and priests, etc. were all constructed of mud bricks, which is why we haven’t found any remains of them. The mamesi or birth house was only unearthed twenty years ago and continuing excavation work is being funded by National Geographic and Discovery.

As soon as we were back on board, the Nebu took off to return to Luxor through the Esna lock.

The Temple of Edfu. The first pylon is decorated with large reliefs.

Come along on the horse drawn carriage ride from Edfu temple back to the Nebu (Nile River boat).

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After lunch, Mike took a tour of the ship’s kitchen. I had a massage at the onboard spa.

At the port talk this evening, Maged and Hazem covered life in Egypt today: the education system, the economic system, the government, marriage customs, etc.

 

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DAY 14 February 08, 2023 – Aswan

Posted on February 8, 2023 by admin

Ferry boats to access Temple of Philae

Later, we took a short motorboat ride across the reservoir of the Aswan Low Dam to visit the Temple of Philae, another of UNESCO’s Nubian Monuments that had to be rescued from flooding. Philae was originally located near the First Cataract but was flooded after the construction of the Aswan Low Dam. As part of the UNESCO Nubia Campaign project, the temple complex was moved to a nearby Agilika Island to protect it before the completion of the Aswan High Dam. As the center of the cult of Isis, the island of Philae was an important place of pilgrimage or worshippers even into the Christian era. From Phil, ISIS was said to watch over the sacred island of Big, one of the mythical burial sites of her husband Osiris. Before the temple’s relocation, visitors after the lower dam’s construction viewed the site from boats, peering through the water. By 1980, Agilika had even been landscaped to look like Philae.

Boats now drop visitors off at the southern end of Agilika, near the oldest building on the island the kiosk of Nectanebo II which dates from the 4th century BC. From here, a long courtyard flanked by colonnades leads to the Temple of Isis, the main building of the Philae complex. Built in the late Ptolemaic and early Roman periods this huge temple combines ancient Egyptian and Greco-Roman architecture. The first pylon has scenes of Ptolemy XII massacring his enemies, watched by Isis, Horus, and Hathor. In front of that pylon, guarding the entrance are two stone lions. To the side of the lions were Obelisks. Neither remains  and one (a victim of black market trade) was in Dorset England. It is notable, because the hieroglyphics on one side are repeated in Greek on the other and were used to confirm  assumptions made in deciphering hieroglyphics with the Rosetta Stone.  Nearby is one of the many nilometers, where the king or high priest would measure the flood waters of the Nile to determine the percentage of taxes the people would owe. A just right flood would generate the maximum – too high or too low would trigger a decrease.  The birth house, built by Ptolemy VI and altered by later rulers, is dedicated to Isis’s son Horus. The birth house was intended to show bas reliefs to legitimize the king’ claim to rule by showing him to be the son of Horus or that Horus granted him the rule of the Lower and Upper Egypt. To the west of the temple lies the Gate of Hadrian which is inscribed 24 August AD 394 with Egypt’s last hieroglyphics.  On the eastern side of the Island the small Temple of Hathor contains reliefs of musicians, including Bes, the god of singing.  Further south, close to the edge of the water, is the 14-columned Kiosk of Trajan which has scenes of the Roman emperor burning incense in front of Osiris and Isis.  At the northern end of the island, the Temple of Augustus and Gate of Diocletian lie in ruins.

Our guide, Maged, entertained us with more ancient tales of the stories of the gods. At some points, he became animated and acted out parts of the stories. His tales brought the bas reliefs to life. They helped create meaning in the art we saw on the walls.

On the way back, we hopped off the bus to see the street market near the railway station. We strolled through the Aswan Bazaar/Spice Market (Souq) with Hazem, the other guide on our tour.  Many of the same items we found during the vendor alleys on the way to the temples and sites were repeated, but spices and other wares (even suitcases were added).  After buying some spices,we walked back to the Nebu for lunch.

The Nebu is tied up to the bulkhead of the Nile in the center of Aswan. Aswan is Egypt’s southernmost city of the Nile and, even in Old Kingdom times, was considered strategically important as it guarded the frontier border. It served as the base for military incursions into Nubia and Sudan. Economically, it was a prosperous marketplace at the crossroads of ancient trade routes between Egypt, Africa, and India. The desert comes right down to the water’s edge here and the river is dotted with islands.

One of the islands, Elephantine Island is the oldest inhabited part of Aswan. It may have been named after the huge granite boulders at the southern end which resemble elephants bathing or because it was a major ivory trading post. the center of the island is home to two traditional Nubian villages distinguished by their colorful homes. It is also the location of another nilometer.

Overlooking the Nile, is the Aga Khan Mausoleum. It is closed to the public. Aga Khan III (1877-1957), the 48th imam or leader of the Ismail sect of Shiite, loved Aswan and spent the winters here hoping to help his rheumatism. After his death, his widow (a French model who was much younger than he) erected the domed and turreted sandstone mausoleum in his honor on a hillside behind their villa. The exterior is modeled on Cairo’s Fatimid tombs. Inside is a marble shrine and Aga Khan’s sarcophagus. Until her death in 2000, when she was in her 90’s, his Begum (his widow) continued to winter  here and would visit the mausoleum daily to leave a red rose on his sarcophagus. The villa is now occupied by the another Aga Khan (the one we know for his fine thoroughbred horses.)

Just west of Elephantine Island is Kitchener’s Island, also known as Island of Plants. It is covered by lush botanical garden. Horatio Kirchner, a British general, was presented the island in the 1890’s, as a reward for leading the Egyptian army’s successful campaigns in Sudan. He resided there and turned it into a botanical garden with his passion for gardening. The huge trees are home to colorful birds and egrets.

This afternoon after lunch, we climbed aboard a traditional felucca sailboat and sipped sparkling wine in the sunshine. While aboard, Maged gave us an overview of marriage customs in Egypt. Feluccas were a working boat design used by fishermen for hundreds of years on the Nile.  I was impressed by the captain’s ability to tack through the Nile with small islands and rocks hemming him in on both sides. At one point some gasped when they thought he was going to run into a cliff of boulders.  The tiller/rudder assembly was hand hewn.  The retractable keel has a depth of 2 meters.  The rudder has a depth of ½ meter.  Toward our turn around point, young children on a surf board clung on the side of our felucca, singing Frere Jacque and hoping for money. One of the crew members played a tambourine-like instrument and led us in song as we sailed back toward the Nebu.

Swimming in the Nile is not recommended since it is infested with parasitic worms, the larvae of which penetrate the skin and cause bilharzia, an infection known as snail fever or swimmers itch. Locals insist you are fine in fast-moving waters but the sluggish banks are best avoided. 

Enjoyed dinner back on board this evening with a galabyia traditional dress party in the lounge afterwards

 

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DAY 13 February 07, 2023

Posted on February 7, 2023 by admin

DAY 13 February 07, 2023 

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Lake Nassar

Lake Nassar

We made a quick stop to view the High Dam, built to control the flood waters of the Nile and generate electricity. This 13,000-foot-long and 3,200-foot-wide wall was built across the Nile between 1960 and 1970 with Soviet support. There is a visitors pavilion detailing its construction and at the western end there is a lotus shaped tower built to commemorate the Soviet Union’s support. It supplanted the British-built Low Dam of the 1900s and created the vast reservoir known today as Lake Nasser. Atop the High Dam ramparts, we viewed first-hand the complex structure and had a view of Lake Nasser one direction and on the other side the Nile. The lower dam was built to regulate the flow of the Nile and increase Egypt’s cultivable land and to provide hydroelectric power. It soon proved too small to control the rivers unpredictable floods. President Nasser’s solution was to construct the High Dam and create Lake Nasser. The resultant increase in in agricultural production and hydroelectricity have saved Egypt from famine but there have been environmental consequences: The rising water table is destroying ancient monuments and silt previously deposited in the Delta is now retained in Lake Nasser forcing Egypt’s farmers to rely heavily on chemicals.

During construction, the engineers devised a screening system to prevent the crocodiles from retreating back into the Nile from Lake Nasser. So the only crocodiles now are in Lake Nasser.

We viewed vastness of the impact of Egypt’s ancient dynasties as we flew 175 miles south from Aswan to visit the great twin temples of Abu Simbel. Along with the Temple of Isis at

Abu Simbel

Abu Simbel

Philae, they are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site known collectively as the Nubian Monuments. Here, imposing 70-foot statues of Ramses II and Queen Nefertari overlook the Nile. Originally carved out of the mountainside in the 13th century BC to commemorate Ramses II’s victory against the Hittites at the Battle of Kadesh, the huge rock relief figures at their entrances have become famous icons, and the sight of them is well worth the extra flight.

What makes them even more interesting, however, is that these enormous temples were not always found here. Between 1964 and 1968, a famous rescue mission — overseen by UNESCO — was undertaken to save them from the waters’ rise behind the Aswan High Dam. In an epic feat of engineering, the entire complex was carefully cut into large blocks, dismantled, lifted and reassembled in a new location – an artificial cliff almost 700 feet back from and 213 feet above their original position.

Buried in sand for centuries, the facade was discovered in 1813 by Swiss explorer Jean-Louis Burckhardt. The Ramses II Colossi are accompanied by carved images of captives from the north and south. The four colossi on the temple facade boast of a unified Egypt. Ramses names adorn the thrones in cartouche form. The broken colossi lost its head in an earthquake in 27 BC. Above the colossi, baboons greet the rising sun.  The facade was intended to impress and frighten, while the interior revealed the union of god and king. Inside the Hypostyle Hall, the colossi in Osiride form (carrying crook and flail) on the southern pillars wear the upper Egypt crown while the northern ones wear the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. There was also a 33 foot high statue of Ramses as Osiris. Storerooms off to the side were to hold offerings to the gods and ritual items. In the inner sanctuary, Ramses II sits with Amun-Ra of Thebes, Ptah of Memphis, and Ra-Harakhty of Heliopolis. On two days of the year, the sun’s rays reach the once gold-covered faces of the statues.

Check out the flip hairdo!

Check out the flip hairdo!

A smaller temple adjacent is dedicated to his wife, Nefertari, and the cow headed goddess, Hathor, goddess of beauty and joy.

After marveling at the architectural ingenuity of both the past and present, we flew back to Aswan in time to enjoy lunch in the late afternoon (3:30 PM) on board the ship. 

An optional trip to the the Old Cataract Hotel to view the suite Agatha Christie stayed in as she wrote portions of “Death of the Nile” was offered. The admission included a voucher to use to purchase a drink in the bar/lounge. Mustafa, one of the managers on board, formerly worked at the hotel and was leading the tour with tales of his experiences there. It is currently under management by Sofitel as one of its Legend hotels. It is an historic British-era Colonial 5-star luxury hotel built and developed by Thomas Cook to house European travelers to the area.

After dinner, we were treated to a Nubian Show in the Lounge/Bar.

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DAY 12 February 06, 2023 – On the Nile River. Egypt

Posted on February 7, 2023 by admin

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Today we continued cruising up the Nile, arriving late morning at the Temple of Kom Ombo, situated on a small hillside right beside the river, just past fields of sugar cane and corn. After lunch, we went ashore to explore Kom Ombo, a small agricultural town that is home to many Nubians displaced by the creation of Lake Nasser. We explored the ruined yet imposing Greco-Roman temple’s unique “double” design, with symmetrical halves dedicated to two different gods who were brothers. It has two entrances, two halls, and two sanctuaries. Maget told us the story of the two brothers who became estranged and were brought back together in unity and ultimately represented Lower Egypt and Upper Egypt.

The southern half of the temple is dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek, god of fertility and protector against the dangers of the Nile, while the northern part of the temple is dedicated to the falcon god Haroeris, or “Horus the Elder,” patron god of the pharaohs.  Construction was begun by Ptolemy VI in the 2nd century BC and mostly completed by Ptolemy XII during the 1st century BC. Roman Emperor Augustus added the entrance pylon around 30 BC.  From the forecourt (largely ruined by floodwaters of the Nile) two doors lead to the hypostyle hall containing scenes relating to Haroeris on the left wall and Sobek on the right. The many columns are carved with the lotus or lily of upper Egypt and the papyrus of the Delta. A series of halls and vestibules lead to each sanctuary. In one of the halls we found bas reliefs depicting a birthing chair to ease delivery of babies and of medical tools,  The carved stones of the temple were held together by sycamore (known for its natural oils) dovetails.

The path out of the temple complex leads to the Crocodile Museum, which houses a collection of mummified crocodiles and ancient carvings. We returned to the ship and sailed onwards to the city of Aswan. The cruise to Aswan gave us another opportunity to enjoy the view of the West Bank.

Before dinner, we were treated to a port talk and a documentary film about the move of Abu Simbel to save it from the rising waters of Lake Nasser and the worldwide Saving Nubia Campaign.

 

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DAY 11 February 05, 2023 – Depart from Luxor, Egypt

Posted on February 7, 2023 by admin

 

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Very early in the morning to beat the crowds, we drove across the river to a range of low mountains. A series of rugged ravines in these hills are known today as the Valleys of the Kings and Queens. Part of the greater Theban Necropolis UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Valley of the Kings encompasses so far 63 tombs and burial chambers cut deep into rock cliffs over a 500-year span. 23 of those are royal tombs; the rest belong to queens, royal family members, and high officials.We explored some of these sacred chambers, and saw elaborate hieroglyphs and paintings that are almost as vivid now as when they were painted 3,000 years ago. We visited the tomb of Ramses IV, Ramses IX, Tutankhamun (the Boy King – including his mummy), RamsesV and VI (same tomb), a queen’s tomb. Tombs were plundered in antiquity and the only one found intact was that of Tutankhamun, discovered by Howard Carter in 1922. The tombs were cut out of natural rock in the limestone hills of Quran which is naturally shaped like a pyramid. Tombs were cut and decorated by skilled workers and artists who lived nearby in an area known today as Dier El Madina (called Ta Set Maat in ancient Egypt which means the place of truth).  Most of the tombs were discovered in modern times after French expedition scholars published the 24 volumes of Description of Egypt (published in 19th century). Tombs are decorated with religious scenes about the journey to the afterlife.  There are many mortuary temples as well on this west bank of the Nile where kings were worshipped after their death. 

Making an alabaster vase

When we arrived we were the 4th bus, when we left there was a vast sea of buses! We made a quick stop at a family operated alabaster/basalt stoneware shop.  The descendants of the young boy who alerted Howard Carter to the location to the entrance of King Tut’s burial chamber by stepping in a hole. 

Our next stop was the terraced Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut (the Queen/King) whose Temple was built in the 18th dynasty by her architect Senenmut, who is buried nearby. It is an extraordinary monument which rises from the desert plain in a series of imposing terraces against a stark mountainous backdrop. It is decorated with scenes showing her divine birth, and an expedition to a foreign country called Punt, probably nowadays Somalia.  Two of her granite obelisks had been transferred, one is still standing at Karnak. She ruled as a man, and was the longest-reigning female pharaoh.

On our way back to the ship, we stopped for a photo opportunity at the Memnon Colossi. They are 3400 year-old colossal statues of King Amenhotep III. Built of Quartzite sandstone, they originally stood in front of his mortuary temple. 

Then finally lunch! 7 hours after we left for Kings Valley!

Today, the h/s Nebu set sail. As Luxor dwindled into the distance, we joined a procession of other cruise ships. This was the ideal opportunity to relax on the roof deck in 73 degree weather. As we passed tiny riverside villages and groves of date palms, we felt as if we’re witnessing scenes straight out of biblical stories. Glimpses of sand dunes and bare cliffs just beyond the slender strip of agricultural land attest to the life-giving importance of the Nile to this desert land

 

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DAY 10 February 04, 2023 – Luxor, Egypt

Posted on February 6, 2023 by admin

Fly to Luxor to embark the h/s Nebu

After a very early breakfast, we transferred to the Cairo airport at 5:00 am for our flight to Luxor — the ancient Egyptian city of Thebes.

Our stateroom aboard Nebu

Upon arrival, drove through lush farmlands to the Nile waterfront, where the Vantage-owned ship h/s Nebu waited for us to climb aboard for our Nile cruise.  We were greeted with a taste of hibiscus juice which they drink either tart or sweet. We checked in to settle into our spacious suites with bed, dressing area, sitting area and bathroom.  Before lunch, we explored the decks of the boat, ending up on the sundeck with its pool. Buffet lunch was served in the restaurant consisting of assorted fruits, vegetables, meats, and pasta.  For a first this trip, ice cream found its way to the dessert buffet – mango ice cream.

After lunch, we had our safety briefing in the lounge and a discussion of the rest of the day’s activities. Then, we were treated to a documentary  detailing egyptologists discoveries in the Valley of Kings including highly detailed graphic representations of the kings’ crossing of the Netherworld with the sun god, RA (basically when they take to their solar boat and travel with RA through the night to rebirth).

Since our bags had to be out in the hall at the hotel at 4 am, they gave us 2 hours to take a power nap and get ourselves together for a visit to the Luxor Temple complex.

The first pylon to the Luxor Temple

A walkway lined with rams-head sphinxes leads all the way from the Karnak complex  to the 3,500-year-old Luxor Temple complex. Dedicated to the Theban Triad of Amun, Mut, and Khonsu, Luxor’s graceful inner courtyards are lined with Rameses colossi and graceful columns covered in carvings and hieroglyphics. It is an elegant example of Pharaonic temple architecture. It was largely completed by the 18th dynasty pharaoh Amenhotep III and added to during the reign of Ramses II in the 19th dynasty. The temple was further modified by later rulers, including Alexander the Great. Its design is remarkably coherent compared to its neighbor the sprawling complex of Karnak. During 3rd century AD it was occupied by a Roman camp and was subsequently abandoned. Over the centuries, it was engulfed in sand and silt and a village grew up within the temple walls. Then in 1881 archaeologist Gaston Maspero rediscovered the temple but before excavation could begin the village had to be removed. Only the Abu al-Haggag Mosque built by Arabs in 13th century was left intact standing high on the layers of silt accumulated over the years.  Fronting the entrance to the temple, the gigantic first pylon is decorated with scenes of Ramses victories over the Hittites in the battle of Qadesh. Two enormous colossi of Ramses and a huge 82 foot high pink granite obelisk flank the gateway to the temple. The obelisk was one of a pair, the other was removed in the early 19th century and re-erected in Place de la Concorde in Paris, a gift from Egyptian ruler Mohammed Ali to the people of France. Beyond the first pylon lies the Court of Ramses II with Abu al-Haggag Mosque towering over the courtyard to the east. The height of the mosque over the stone floor is a visual indication of the depth of debris that once covered the entire temple. The western corner of the court incorporates an earlier barque shrine (to house the god’s sacred boats) dedicated to the Theban Triad. A double row of papyrus bud columns encircles the court, interspersed with huge standing colossi of Ramses II.  More giant black granite statues of Ramses guard the entrance to the original part of the temple, which begins with the majestic colonnade of Amenhotep III with its avenue of 14 columns. The walls here were embellished during the reign of Tutankhamen and depict the Opet festival when the images of Amun, Mut, and Khonsu were taken in procession from Karnak to Luxor. The western wall shows the outward journey to Luxor and the eastern wall the return to Karnak. The colonnade leads to the Court of Amenhotep III noted for its double rows of papyrus columns, the best preserved in the temple. In 1989 work on the foundation led to discovery of 22 New Kingdom statues now on display in the Luxor Museum. The hypostyle hall on the southern side served as a vestibule to the main temple. It has 32 papyrus columns in 4 rows of eight bearing the later cartouches of Ramses II, Ramses IV, Ramses VI, and Seti I. The antechamber beyond was converted to a church by the Romans 4th century AD, its Pharaonic reliefs plastered over and covered with Christian paintings. A second smaller antechamber, the offerings chapel, leads on to another columned hall with the Sanctuary of the Sacred Barque in the center. It had been rebuilt by Alexander the Great. The birth room to the east has reliefs depicting the divine birth of Amenhotep III, intended to validate his claim to be the son of Amun. Behind the Sanctuary, another hall leads to a small damaged sanctuary that once housed a gold statue of Amun.

The Boat-NEBU

The custom-built h/s Nebu offers the finest and newest accommodations sailing the Nile today. With just 40 cabins, it was the most luxurious and exclusive way to sail this ancient waterway. We could cruise to legendary archaeological sites, relax on the sun deck, take a dip in the swimming pool, savor delectable cuisine, or relax in our spacious cabin. Staterooms offered private bathroom with bathtub and hair dryer, sitting area, individually controlled air-conditioning, minibar, safe, telephone, and TV with video channels.

  • Staterooms (counting suites): 40
  • 4 Supplement-free solo cabins
  • A restaurant featuring sumptuous international cuisine
  • A bar/lounge, perfect for socializing or enjoying onboard entertainment
  • A sun deck and swimming pool on the top deck
  • Top-deck breakfast dining
  • A fitness center, actually a treadmill and a stationary bike
  • An elevator
  • Onboard spa
  • All staterooms feature a private bathroom and hairdryer, sitting area, large windows for optimal views, individual temperature controls, minibar, safe, telephone, and TV with video channels

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