Strolling Montmartre: Arts and Tarts

We had a late start this morning since I took some time to update our blog with photos.  I am working backward from here and have completed through 22 September.  Lou and Sandy were off at the ungodly hour of 4:30 AM to catch a flight to Sweden and will return late tonight.  Shoe and Carol headed off to check out perfumeries.  Mike and I took the Metro up to Place des Abbesses to start our stroll.

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Breakfast French-Style

Montmartre derives its name from “mons martyrium” or mount of martyrs, commemorating the martyrdom of St Dennis and two companions in AD 250 – a gruesome tale.  The area is known for its artists and musicians, somewhat seedy side, but has held onto its village-like charm and small-town, village atmosphere.

Pale Green Ironwork of the Guimard-designed Metro Entrance/Exit

Abbesses, is one of two remaining  Belle Epoque pale green ironwork entrances/exits to the Metro – original design by Hector Guimard.  The square, named after nuns who moved their abbey down from the “butte” in the 17th century, is home to Paris’ first reinforced concrete church, faced with red brick and in a moorish design.

We walked toward rue des Trois Freres along rue Yvonne le Tac, lined with shops, galleries and restaurants.  This street is supposedly the site of St Dennis’ execution at the hands of Roman soldiers. The Chapelle du Martyre, a 19th century chapel which replaced an earlier chapel where the Jesuit order was founded in 1534, was closed – it’s only open Friday afternoons.

Then on past place Charles Dullin and its Theatre de l’Atelier to bd de Rochechouart – of absolutely no charm or integrity.  Now a tacky souvenir shop, Le Chat Noir is right here in the middle of the block.  Nearby, Trinon, a very attractive building is in the throes of renovation.  At first we mistook it for the Theatre Elysee-Monmartre, with its crumbling Art Nouveau facade.  But, we continued on and few doors away, there it was; its Art Nouveau facade draped in netting to keep it from falling on passers-by.  A German band and promoter were unloading equipment from two huge buses/trucks blocking the road.  We figured out that would be the scene of the next rave!  In its prime time, this was the nightclub known for extravagant shows.  In fact, famed can-can dancer La Goulue made her debut here, before she left this theater to perform at the Moulin Rouge.

How about some trim?

Then up rue de Steinkerque, where you can find any and all kind of bargains from household goods to clothing to souvenirs.  Here on this busy, busy street, you can see huckster after huckster, set up in the middle of the street doing the proverbial “shell game.”  What continues to surprise me time after time, is how many gullible tourists stand there and get sucked in!

Just around the corner is one my “must-do’s” in Paris – Place St Pierre and its fabric, button, and trim shop after shop after shop.  All in the shadow (at least on a sunny day) of the Sacre Coeur, with its white wedding-cake outline.  I wandered in and out while Mike waited out in the street – way too hot in the stores.

If you can't find the button you're looking for here, you won't

The funicular was not working so we wandered up the street and found a lunch spot, sitting outside, while everyone else huddled over their tables wearing coats and scarves.  Our waitress was concerned we would be too cold or we might get wet — but we were very comfortable.  After lunch, I went into Fragonard and tried on a few scents, but nothing suited me quite as much as 1812 from Detaille.  By then the funicular was running, we supposed it had stopped for lunch; so we headed up to the basilica and its wonderful view of the city.  Clouds looked like they were breaking and, so we continued on our walk.

Fabric Awaits

More Fabric - Even On The Street!

Right after the funicular, we walked through square Nadar, complete with a statue of Chevalier de la Barre, a 19 year-old knight who was punished for singing songs in front of a procession of Capuchin friars without doffing his hat.  After removing his tongue, cutting off his hand, and burning his body – he was executed.  Pretty cruel, if you ask me!

Basilica Sacre Coeur against a Cloudy Sky

Up to Sacre-Coeur, begun in 1875 and finished in 1919. It was designed by Paul Abadie as a symbol of contrition after France’s defeat in the Franco-Prussian War.  The church is beautiful, with an immense mosaic of Christ with arms outstretched in welcome.  Photos were not permitted in the church; but postcards and trinkets were available for sale.  I light a candle in honor of my sister and her family at the center of the basilica.

Then past Montmartre’s other church, St Pierre, one of the oldest in Paris, and a remnant of a 12th century Benedictine Abbey.  It’s tiny cemetery with only 85 graves is open only on November 1, All Saints’ Day.  Then, around the corner, to the 14th century place du Tertre, the square known for its artists.  It has changed in that the central square is now populated with tents and restaurants and the artists have been pushed to the edges.  We wandered and looked at the selections: mostly bad, mostly ugly, mostly too expensive.

We aborted our stroll, headed back to Abbesses and metro’d back to La Bourse, where an afternoon street market was happening.  We checked it out, looking for seafood – pickings were slim on this overcast day.  We hopped aboard the Metro, headed back to the apartment.  On the way, we passed a MonoPrix, stepped inside to check it out – and bought some wine to go with tonight’s dinner of salad and ravioli.

Art in the Square

About my favorite - and the artist wasn't even French! Mon Dieu!

Metallics are the rage!

And more metallics!

Don't sing in front of friars without doffing your hat - punishment is pretty cruel