Dijon, Sunday 28 September 2008

http://artedgeek.com/category/current We spent most of the day in the Musee des Beaux Arts in the former duke’s palace off the Cour de Bar.  Near the entrance we found an old well, currently used as a wishing well.  The museum was free, a significant portion was closed for construction, including the ducal kitchens which Mike would have loved to see.  They were built about 1433 by Philip the Good and have massive fireplaces to prepare the massive feasts at the court during the 15th century.

buy clomid in germany Just after the entrance we found the Chapter House of the Sainte-Chappelle (built around 1365) by Philip the Bold and ultimately in 1430 became the seat of the Order of the Golden Fleece founded by Philip the Good.  This area was stocked with medieval sculptures.

Upstairs we found the later items of the museum’s collections, including Swiss and German primitives 15th and 16th centuries, objects from the 16th to 19th centuries, a special are of paintings from Burgundy in the 17th century, French art of the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, statues of Francois Rude, an are of armory, and even modern and contemporary art, even African art from the Congo, etc.  Naturally we had an appreciation for the works of Manet, Rodin, Delacroix, Victor Hugo, Monet, Boudin, Sisley and the other impressionists/post-impressionists.

Toys in the museum

Toys in the Musee des Beaux Arts

Early life in Dijon

Early life in Dijon

Apotherycary

Apotherycary

Perhaps the most significant of the museum’s rooms was the Guards’ Room containing the heavily carved Tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy.  This room overlooks the Place des Ducs.  Built in t e1400’s, it was restored after a fire in the early 16th century. The tomb of Philip the Bold has a recumbent figure of the duke, watched over by two angels, resting on a black marble slab surrounded by alabaster arches forming a cloister to shelter the procession of mourners.  All of the figures are picked out and highlighted in gilt/gold.

The other duke is John the Fearless along with his wife Margaret of Bavaria is in a similar style.  Several altarpieces decorate the room, some famous, and some very intricately carved or painted.

post office/telegraph office/telephone office

post office/telegraph office/telephone office

In an old gallery up a spiral staircase in the Tour de Bar is a collection of animal sculptures by Francois Pompon.  The steps were so narrow and twisted we decided to skip that part.

In our travels through the museum, we found the original heavily carved wooden doors from the Palais du Justice.  The doors were carved by Hugues Sambin.  We also came across a beautiful salon decorated with woodwork of the Louis XVI period displaying 18th century furniture, art sculpture and a fantastic mirror and commode – as well as an enamel and brass wall clock.  The entire rooms upper walls were covered in a teal silk – my favorite color.We left the museum, wandered back to Place Francois Rude and found a table in the sun to enjoy a lunch of salad des chevres and a pitchet of cotes de rhone. It was so warm, we ended up taking off our layers and basking in the sun’s rays.As we made our way back toward the hotel and the train station, we passed through Place Grangier and spotted the very grand post office/telegraph office/telephone office.  Remember in France the post office runs the landline communications system.

Next to the Hotel des Postes is very unusual art nouveau building with pagoda-like roofs, looking sort of like flying saucers.  We learned that both buildings, drastically different, were designed by the same architect Louis Perreau.Also on the way back to the hotel, we stopped by the train station to see if we could locate a train to get us to Gray – where we pick up our boat on Wednesday.  Evidently, there is no train that heads that way.  Fall back plan – call the boat people and see if they can advise us.

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