The peaks are socked in this morning!
We left Lake Bled after breakfast heading for the Slovenian capitol of Ljubljana. Lake Bled was socked in this morning and rain was predicted. We all resorted to rain gear and umbrellas, better prepared than last night. Sure enough, it started raining during our 40 minute ride to Ljubljana. In the center of the city, at Congress Park, we met up with our city guide, Chira. Under Congress Park is a large underground parking lot, even equipped with water closets! The trees in the park used to be chestnut trees but Plecnik thought they were inappropriate and messy for a city park so he purchased plane trees at his expense to encourage the city to plant them. He also specified willow trees for some locations to remind us of the connection Ljubljana to its water source – the river.
Chira, our tour guide for Ljubljana
Chira walked us around the old town, pointing out architectural features and filling us in on the history. Much of Ljubljana was destroyed by earthquakes. In the 1920’s and 30’s, it was rebuilt under the direction of architect Joze Plecnik, a Ljubljana native who studied under Otto Wagnerand donated his services to the city. His impact on Ljubljana created a green city with an emphasis on pedestrian access, green spaces, sustainability. The river embankments and their development follow the spirit of his original vision. In fact, in an attempt to regulate traffic, he simply added pedestrian bridges to either side of a bridge originally constructed in 1842. Of course, the entire area is pedestrian only now! But the bridge is now known as the Triple Bridge. He planted white birches on the Trnovo Bridge which was near his home. His architectural style is a sort of art nouveau derivative.
After our tour in the rain, we had two hours of free time to wander the cobblestone streets, check out the city’s three bridges, eat and shop. We visited the daily market. (designed by Plecnik), somewhat reduced due to the rain but it had a wide selection fruits, vegetables,and flowers. The market is generally busier on Saturdays. A colonnade had been built on the River bank to house a permanent butcher market, a bakery, a fish market (downstairs to contain the smell), and a few small eateries.
Our lunch of leek soup, buckwheat spoon bread, sausage, and local beer
We picked Moji Struklji and enjoyed a bowl of leek soup, buckwheat spoon bread, and a local sausage with sauerkraut and mustard accompanied by another Slovenian beer brand, Union. Mike added a tarragon dumpling but it was just too much food! Sparrows hopped up onto our spare chair and stole a few snippets of dumpling! We think our lunch stop was a popular local spot, since while we were there 11 WOLT and 3 GOLOV bicycle food delivery folks stopped in to pick up orders to deliver. The central area is a pedestrian and bicycle area and to assist residents, the city operates small electric vehicles for free rides, especially for those carrying loads of groceries, etc. We were to assemble at 1:15 to head back to the bus and head across the border to Zagreb, Croatia. Half of our group misunderstood and thought they had until 2. But, as they say – better late than never! On our way back to the bus, we passed a series of trash and recycle receptacles. In order to use them, a local would have to swipe a card with their personal information to gain access, deposit their trash or sorted recyclables (paper, packaging, glass, plastics). Each morning the bins (stored underground) are emptied. Once a month, the users are billed for each time they use a bin.
During our ride, the landscape changed quickly from alpine to rolling hills and plains. We crossed the border into Croatia at 3:25 – a fairly smooth and easy process. To leave Slovenia, each person left the bus and one by one presented their passport and vaccination card to the Slovenian border police officer who stamped each passport. We reboarded the bus, drove 200 feet, and encountered a Croatian border agent. When he heard we were all Americans, he figured we’d been vaccinated and just let us through without checking passports or vaccination cards! The two border checks are as a result that Slovenia has not been accepted to the Schengen area of 26 European countries that have abolished all passport and border controls at their mutual borders. And, the sun came out to greet us.
Our bedroom
Our bathroom
We arrived at our hotel, the Hotel Esplanade in Zagreb, Croatia, a historic Art Deco hotel that used to serve the Orient Express and dates back to 1925. Our room is large, bright, and wonderfully appointed. Tonight we meet the rest of our tour group and dine in the hotel for our Welcome dinner. This afternoon we bid farewell to Juko, our guide throughout Slovenia, and said hello to his younger brother Stefan who will be our guide through Croatia.
After a short meeting to globally define our next few days, we adjourned to the Zinfandel restaurant for dinner consisting of Green Pea and Mint Soup, Veal with Mushrooms and Creamy Potatoes, and Vanilla Creme Brûlée, and, of course wine!.
