Paris 2014, Day 26 Last Full Day in Paris for now!

Posted on March 1, 2014 by admin

It another rainy day here in Paris.  It our last full day and we really do not have a lot planned. If the day clears a bit were thinking about maybe heading over to the 13 to the La Butte aux Cailles. Here is a Walking Tour we found.

The Butte-aux-Cailles (a name that could be translated into “quail hill”, although it originates from its former landowner Pierre Caille, who bought a vineyard here in 1543) is a hilltop neighborhood of Paris, France located in Paris’ south-eastern

Small cobblestone street abound

Small cobblestone street abound

13th arrondissement . A now extinct river, the Bièvre (from Latin ‘Beaver’), once made this area important for the tannery and tissue trades.

Today the Butte-aux-Cailles area assembles a young, trendy and festive Parisian population in its many small bars and restaurants. Since its incorporation into Paris along with the northern extremity of the now Paris-bordering Gentilly commune to which it belonged, the Butte-aux-Cailles has managed to retain much of its village ambiance.

Our Navigo monthly metro pass expired yesterday so we used some paper ticket that I bought the day before we went to Versailles.  We jumped aboard the #9 at Rue de la Pompe and transfered to the #6 at Trocodaro on our way to Corvisart, from there it was about a block from the metro to rue du Moulin des Prés to start the walk. (Visit the

Setting up for a street Market on Sunday

Setting up for a street Market on Sunday

Walking Tour link above).

This area is known for its Street Art, not to be confused with Graffiti, the art is actually coordinated and sanctioned by the Art Council.

Miss Tic

Miss Tic

Bienvenue to the Butte-aux-Cailles. With such a mellow mood, and lack of car traffic, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d found yourself in an ancient village in la France Profonde. But there’s a distinct urbane air, and political vibe, to this hamlet. One clue is the street art, with witticisms coined by celebrated artist Miss.Tic, who first rose to fame in this quartier in the 1980s. “Be happy while waiting for happiness,” one of her stenciled heroines

An apartment house resembling an Alsace Village

An apartment house resembling an Alsace Village

proclaims. Like sassy pin-ups, these mademoiselles painted on restaurant walls and store facades spout poetic slogans, often with a smoking gun in hand. “You make me dream… to better fall asleep,” another says. These sexy silhouettes confront gender stereotypes and entertain passers-by with political double-entendres: “Il y a de la rage dans l’ére.”

You can read more about the area in France Today Magazine

Dogs of Paris, maybe a Coffee Table book in the future.

Dogs of Paris, maybe a Coffee Table book in the future.

article about Butte-aux-Cailles.

On our walk back, closer to home, Pat never misses and opportunity to snap a photo of the local dogs.

Here is a slide show of the area, please sit back and enjoy it.  Consider that we walked the hills and narrow cobblestone streets so you just have to watch.

Vegetables rolls
Chicken and curry
Beef and basil
Shrimps and coriandervideo width=”160″ height=”100″ m4v=”http://frenchbychoice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Butte-aux-Cailles-2014-2-SD-480p.m4v”][/video]

Restaurant Bon

Restaurant Bon

Restaurant Bon 25, rue de la Pompe

Restaurant Bon 25, rue de la Pompe

We just returned from Bon, a restaurant here in the 16th arrondissement, it’s an asian influenced menu. We selected the Mixed Rolls to start,one each of Vegetables rolls, Chicken and curry, Beef and basil and Shrimps and coriander.  All very good with the beef and shrimp being the standouts.  Pat selected the Black Cod and I got the crispy duck, we switched half way but I could tell Pat was longing for the Cod so we switched back.  While the duck was very, very good the Black Cod was outstanding, honestly the best either of us has ever had.  We finished the meal wit the Choco Bon dessert to share, ripe mango with a coconut cream with tapioca and and a mango sauce.  A great finish to a great meal, we would highly recommend it to all.  We select a bottle of rose, Côtes de

Bon!

Bon!

Provence Château Minuty Prestige, which was also excellent.  Total cost with coffee 141€ ($193.17).  A great value.  Reservation suggested, especially on a Friday night. If your french is not too good you and book on line at there website.

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Paris 2014, Day 25 Cooking Class and Shopping

Posted on February 28, 2014 by admin

Oh no!  we woke to another day with out water as the sewer problem continues here in the building.  When we left the plumbers were snaking something in the court yard.

We were headed for E. Dehillerin so I could get a lid for one of my pots.  Of course I had to spend a bid of time reviewing their current stock of products and a brief conversation with Monsieur Franck who I have purchased my copper pots from years ago while France was still on the Franc.  Mr Franck lamented that we are all getting older but things were good

Plain omelet with salad

Plain omelet with salad

with him. Afer my purchase we headed over to rue Montigueil for lunch at Point du Saint Eustache Pats had and omelet and I IMG_0019had a salad with hot goat cheese and we order a carafe of Rose from Provence.  We enjoyed our lunch and then headed for rue de Rivoli for some shoe shopping, after a bit I left Pat to continue shopping and headed over to La Cuisine Paris for my Brioche cooking class.

We had two Pastry Chefs, Chef Diane and Chef G, Guiemette trained as a chef but then chose pastry because it was far less work and shorter hours in the kitchen, at least in a french kitchen. I took my Macroon class from Guiemette in March 2012.

Pastry Chef Diane at La Cuisine Paris

Pastry Chef Diane at La Cuisine Paris

So you take a cooking class in Paris and 4 of the students are from Maryland and one a

Brioche - Baba au Rhum

Brioche – Baba au Rhum

young woman from New York now living in Paris. Small world!

We had two pastry chef teaching the class where were learned

Brioche fisk

Brioche fisk

to make brioche and baba au rhum. We also made pralines and brioche

Brioche la tete

Brioche la tete

roses, brioche la tete, filled brioche, and brioche in the shape of a fish.  The class was interesting and helpful and I learned a few new trick for making brioche and I think I may have solved the problem with mine at home.  I learned a new technique to hurry the rising process by using a poolish so this may also help when time is important.

Filled Brioche

Filled Brioche, I made mine filled with chocolate chips but others use the pralines, raisins,et.

On the way out I ran in to Jane, Jane Bertch and her French husband Olivier Pugliesi-Conti actually are the owners of La Cuisine Paris and immigrated her from Chicago to start the school.  Jane and Olivier worked in corporate banking and management consulting, respectively. Both avid foodies, the couple decided to make a jump and create a cooking school catering to English and French speakers.

 

 

Brioche in Rhum sauce

Brioche in Rhum sauce

 

After the class I met up with Pat at Martin and Paul’s apartment.  We had a glass of wine and the had dinner at a local Italian restaurant on rue Turenne. Ristorante Caruso. I had the Gnocchi Leonardo and Pat had the Penne Arrabiata which

Penne Arrabiata

Penne Arrabiata

remix us both of this funny cartoon called the Death Star Cafe that we have included a link to for your amusement.

Gnocchi Learnado

Gnocchi Learnado

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Paris 2014 Day 23 Musee Marmottan

Posted on February 27, 2014 by admin

Life is hard here in Paris, were now living more like the French than we want to.

order Clomiphene in canada No Water today!  We woke to found no water, its not our apartment but rather the building.  I when to the Bakery while Pat when to the grocery store to purchase water.  We found out the water was turned off after midnight due to a Sewer problem and the plumber was to arrive at 0830 according the the building superintendent, we left here about 1430 and no plumber was seen on the property.

We headed off to the Musee Marmottan, the home of Claude Monet’s sons collection who died in 1966 in an auto accident and left his collection to the museum.  Our purpose of the visit, hover, was to see an Impressionist collection of 100 pieces from private collection, some that we had never seen before.  Some we were familiar with from previous catalogues  but some we had never seen before.

Boules in the rain. It's a very important game!

Boules in the rain. It’s a very important game!

While walking from the bus stop we came across some Frenchmen playing Boules in the rain under umbrellas, this was a hardcore game, maybe even a grudge match.  Ha Ha!

There was a long line, not sure why because the exhibit is here

Exhibit of 100 painting in private collections.

Exhibit of 100 painting in private collections.

in Paris until July.  The weather was rainy, at time, and cold with the temperature between 37-43 degrees depending on the wind. We waited the better part of two hours.  We finally got into the heated space at about 4:30 PM, the museum is open on Thursday evening until 8:00 PM so there was no time problem.

Included in the exhibit:Bazille, Boudin, Caillebotte, Cassatt, Cezanne, Carot, Degas, Gonzales, Guillaumin, Jongking, Manet, Monet, Morisot, Pissarro, Rodin, and Sisley.

Museum History

The Former hunting lodge of Christophe Edmond Kellerman, Duke of Valmy, the Marmottan Monet Museum was bought in 1882 by Jules Marmottan. His son Paul settled in it, and had another hunting lodge built to house his private collection of art pieces and First Empire paintings.

Upon his death he bequeathed all his collections, and his town house – which will become the Marmottan Monet Museum in 1934 – and the Boulogne Library’s rich historical archives to the French Academy of Fine Arts.

In 1957, the Marmottan Monet Museum received the private collection of Madame Victorine Donop de Monchy as a donation inherited from her father, Doctor Georges de Bellio, one of the first lovers’ of impressionism whose patients included Manet, Monet, Pissaro, Sisley, and Renoir.

In 1966, Michel Monet, the painter’s second son, bequeathed his property in Giverny to the French Academy of Fine Arts and his collection of paintings, inherited from his father, to the Marmottan Monet Museum. This donation endowed the Museum with the largest Claude Monet collection in the world. On this occasion, the academician architect and museum curator, Jacques Carlu, built a room inspired from the Grandes Décorations in the Tuilerie’s Orangerie to house the collection.

The works acquired by Henri Duhem and his wife Mary Sergeant splendidly completed this fund in 1987 through the generosity of their daughter Nelly Duhem. A painter and post-impressionists himself, Henri Duhem also was a passionate art collector and gathered the works of his contemporaries.

The Denis and Annie Rouart Foundation was created in 1996 within the Marmottan Monet Museum, in compliance with the benefactress’ wishes. The Museum was hence enriched with prestigious works by Berthe Morisot, Edouard Manet, Edgar Degas, and Henri Rouart.

In 1980, Daniel Wildstein gave the Museum the exceptional illumination collection put together by his father. Throughout the years, other major donations have come to enrich the Marmottan Monet Museum collections: Emile Bastien Lepage, Vincens Bourguereau, Henri Le Riche, Jean Paul Léon, André Billecocq, Gaston Schulmann, Florence Gould Foundation, Cila Dreyfus, and Thérèse Rouart.  The current admission is 10-Euros.

Escargot from Burgundy

Escargot from Burgundy

We decided to stay in the neighborhood tonight.  We have been walking by the Cafe Le Chalet du XVI for a almost a month an decided to give it a try.  I order snails (Escargot) from Burgundy and the Chicken Pat when for the scallop.  The snails excellent, the chicken good

Snails with the appropriate tools almost looks like an operating room.

Snails with the appropriate tools almost looks like an operating room.

it was a thigh and leg, my personal favorite and Pat’s with Basmati rice was outstanding, I can always tell when she like something because there was no taste forth coming although I did get to taste the sauce and the rice.  I

Waiters at the Cafe Chatlet XVI

Waiters at the Cafe Chatlet XVI

think we would definitely recommend the place.

 

 

 

 

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Paris 2014 Day 22, Chateau Versailles

Posted on February 26, 2014 by admin
Mike and Pat February 2014 at the Chateaue Versailles

Mike and Pat February 2014 at the Chateaue Versailles

Chateau/Estate/Palace de Versailles lies south west of the City of Paris (about 15 Km), a short metro/RER/Train/Bus ride away.  There are

Chateau de Versailles from the court yard

Chateau de Versailles from the court yard

many ways to get there for most it’s via the RER C5, purchase a zone 4 ticket or simple select Chateau Versailles Rive Gauche from the list of destination at an automated ticket machine. The cost 4.10€ for a one way ticket, you will need two per person, one for the trip out and one for the return.  The RER can be a bit tricky to use, so be sure to check the TV Monitor in the station and make sure you board a train head for Chateau Versailles (Rive Gauche).  When the train enters the station it will have the 4 letter code on the front of the train!  When you

Gardens of the Chateau de Versailles winter 2014

Gardens of the Chateau de Versailles winter 2014

arrive at the Versailles RG  train station exit to the street and turn right and go one block and then cross the street and head in the direction of the Chateau, you will see it in the distance about a 10 minute walk.

Hall of Mirrors (See video for more details)

Hall of Mirrors (See video for more details)

When you arrive follow the signs to the ticket office and buy a 1 day passport (18€) which will get you in to both the Chateau and Petit Trianon.

We explored the estate, visiting the Palace, with it’s Hall of Mirrors, King’s Chamber,  and the Queen’s bedroom, the gardens, with their fountains, statues and giant reflecting pool and the Petit

Chateau de Versailles Reflecting poos

Chateau de Versailles Reflecting poos

Trianon, with it grand staircase.

 There is so much to see at this historic location you can get overwhelmed.  We tried to capture as many photos to share and video of both the Hall of Mirrors and the Queen’s chamber.

Grand Staircase in the Petit Trianon

Grand Staircase in the Petit Trianon

There is a great deal of walking involved with a good percentage on cobble stone streets so be prepared.

Below is a partial history and more information is available on the Palaces web site.

Enjoy a slide show of some of the more interesting photos that we captured during our vista to the Chateau de Versailles in February 2014, it was our third visit one in June  2000, one in October 2011 and this year.  Always something new to see and of course the month provide a whole new perspective on the gardens and architecture.

buy modafinil bulk powder The Palace

The Château de Versailles, which has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List for 30 years, is one of the most beautiful achievements of 18th-century French art. The site began as Louis XIII’s hunting lodge before his son Louis XIV transformed and expanded it, moving the court and government of France to Versailles in 1682. Each of the three French kings who lived there until the French Revolution added improvements to make it more beautiful.

The Hall of Mirrors, the King’s Grand Apartments, the Museum of the History of France. The Château de Versailles, the seat of power until 1789, has continued to unfurl its splendour over the course of centuries. At first it was just a humble hunting lodge built by Louis XIII. But Louis XIV chose the site to build the palace we know today, the symbol of royal absolutism and embodiment of classical French art.

In the 1670s Louis XIV built the Grand Apartments of the King and Queen, whose most emblematic achievement is the Hall of Mirrors designed by Mansart, where the king put on his most ostentatious display of royal power in order to impress visitors. The Chapel and Opera were built in the next century under Louis XV.

The château lost its standing as the official seat of power in 1789 but acquired a new role in the 19th century as the Museum of the History of France, which was founded at the behest of Louis-Philippe, who ascended to the throne in 1830. That is when many of the château’s rooms were taken over to house the new collections, which were added to until the early 20th century, tracing milestones in French history.

The Gardens

From the central window of the Hall of mirrors the visitor look down on the grand perspective that leads the gaze from the Water Parterre to the horizon. This original perspective, which preceded the reign of Louis XIV, was developed and prolonged by the gardener André Le Nôtre by widening the Royal Path and digging the Grand Canal. This vast perspective stretches from the façade of the Château de Versailles to the railings of the park.

In 1661, Louis XIV commissioned André Le Nôtre with the design and laying out of the gardens of Versailles which, in his view, were just as important as the Château. The works were undertaken at the same time as those for the palace and took forty years to complete. But André Le Nôtre did not work alone: Jean-Baptiste Colbert, Superintendent of the King’s Buildings, directed the project from 1664 to 1683; Charles Le Brun, appointed First Painter of the King in January 1664, produced the drawings for a large number of statues and fountains; and, a little later, the architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart drew up increasingly understated scenic plans and built the Orangerie. Lastly, the King had all the projects submitted to him and wanted the “details of everything”.

The laying out of the gardens required enormous work. Vast amounts of earth had to be shifted to lay out the flower beds, the Orangerie, the fountains and the Canal, where previously only woods, grasslands and marshes were. The earth was transported in wheelbarrows, the trees were conveyed by cart from all the provinces of France and thousands of men, sometimes whole regiments, took part in this vast enterprise.

Since 1992, the gardens have been gradually replanted, and after the devastating storm of December 1999, the work speeded up to such an extent that quite a few sections have already been restored to their original appearance.

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Paris 2014, Day 21 Addendum

Posted on February 25, 2014 by admin

A ticket to the ballet is in store for this evening, so dinner had to be early – ballet was projected to end at 10 PM (way too late to eat!)

We headed over to the Marais, to dine on our favorite fallafels in Paris at l’As du Falaffel on rue Rosiers. To our surprise, there was no line and we quickly grabbed a table. We had allowed sufficient time before I needed to make my way over to Opera Garnier. I had the usual: Mike opted for a taste of something different. This will now be our go-to place if we ever have the opportunity to indulge in a performance again. Besides the lunchtime crowd is just plain crazy.

Mike's Dinner

Mike’s Dinner

Hopped the 29 bus for Opera Garnier where Mike and I parted ways – he went to the Apple store, I went to the ballet. Again I had a great seat, 4th row in Orchestra, just 3 seats from the center aisle. Center aisle is quirky in Opera Garnier; there are fold-up seats that during a performance people sit in. Wonder if it adheres to the fire code? The obvious issue is that  no one seated there can take their seat until every one else is seated.  I preferred my seat in the balcony to this orchestra seat – visibility and knee room was better up there

Ballet was ONEGUINE, a story ballet depicted in three acts. There are two friends, Onegin and Lenski; two sisters, Olga and Tatiana; a Russian Prince; a duel between the friends; and unrequited love. The scenery and the costumes were fabulous, prima ballerina was artistic, talented, able to portray deep emotion, strength, and precision while dancing through the three acts. This ballet was choreographed by John Cranko in 1965 for the Stuttgart Ballet and was performed by the Paris Ballet for the first time in 2009. The music was by Tchaikovsky, full of drama and occasional sweetness. The most difficult prospect was getting out of the theatre and into the metro for the ride home to our apartment in the 16th.

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Paris 2014, Day 21 (AM) Croissant Crawl – Finale

Posted on February 25, 2014 by admin

There were three remaining bakeries on our list of the 10 Best Croissants in Paris for 2013.  We had done 3 on February 13, 2014 see the post.  To refresh we are judging on taste, exterior, interior and overall quality of the product.

Benjamin Turquier of 134 RdT, 134 Rue de Turenne, 75003

Benjamin Turquier of 134 RdT, 134 Rue de Turenne, 75003

We arrived at the first location in the 3rd arrondissement at about a little before 1000. This is Benjamin Turquier of 134 RdT, 134 Rue de Turenne, 75003 he finished 2nd in the competition, and although Paula had said “she did not like his croissant”, we took into account that she made her purchase at

Benjamin Turquier Croissant.

Benjamin Turquier Croissant.

2:30 in the afternoon.  so we approached Monsieur Turquier’s product with an open mind.  We found his croissant to be very good,

Benjamin Turquier interior

Benjamin Turquier interior

it may even give our #1 selection a run for their money.  This croissant was 1.20€, again Pat took the photos while I went in to purchase.  The taste was good, not too buttery (3), the exterior was grasp with good flake without been dark (3+), and the interior was soft, cooked properly and light (3).  The overall score was a three(3+)

We headed over to the 18th arrondissement to the #3 contender on the list Djibril Bodian

Closed on Tueday, too bad

Closed on Tueday, too bad

of Le Grenier à Pain des Abbessess, 38 Rue des Abbesses, 75018 but found his shop closed.  There are no second chance in the competition so he was eliminated.

Back on the metro headed to the 11th. to the #10 winner Philippe Marache of 92 Avenue de la République, 75011.  I must say there are no looser in the competition and Pat and I are the real winners because we would like for any of these bakers to come to Richmond.  Cost for this croissant 1€.

Philippe Marache of 92 Avenue de la République, 75011

Philippe Marache of 92 Avenue de la République, 75011

In any case, on with the judging, Monsieur Marache’s croissant was not our idea of a perfect croissant from the exterior, a bit different that the standard.  The croissant had a nice buttery

Philippe Marache Croissant

Philippe Marache Croissant

flavor (3) and the exterior was crisp (3).  The exterior was light and cooked properly (3) and the overall score was a (3).  The bottom was

Philippe Marache interior

Philippe Marache interior

just a bit on the dark side but not enough to give any burnt flavor, Pat likes them this way.

And the over all winner is: Well I’m going to call it a tie between #2 Benjamin Turquier and  #4 Anthony Bosson; however, the real winners are Mike and Pat and the losers are all of you stuck back in Ricmond, or some where else without Great Croissants!

Chocolat Chaud

Chocolat Chaud

Finished with our croissant crawl we head to Pat’s favorite location for Chocolat Chaud at Cafe Bonapart in Saint Germain Des Pres, where they put the bitter chocolate into the cup and then tilt to form a flower.  When leaving we ran into an old fashion organ grinder, however, no monkey just his dog and cat, although not much interest was shown in the cat

 

 

 

 

 

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Paris 2014, Day 20 (Salon de l’Agriculture)

Posted on February 24, 2014 by admin

We have a date with the cow, chickens, and great food at the International Salon de l’Agriculture.

This is our second time at the annual event and we’re looking forward to it – despite the frenzied crowds.

A Eifel tower of vegetables

A Eifel tower of vegetables As a descendant of the country fairs of the 18th century and the “Plump Animals” or “Slaughter Animals” competition was created in 1844 in Poissy. The General Agricultural Competition was officially launched in Paris in 1870.

As a descendant of the country fairs of the 18th century and the “Plump Animals” or “Slaughter Animals” competition was created in 1844 in Poissy. The General Agricultural Competition was officially launched in Paris in 1870.

Eiffel tower of Vegetables

Tower of Rosé from Taval

In 1925, it moved to the Porte de Versailles Exhibition Centre and has evolved continuously ever since. Initially reserved for animals only, it now includes competitions for regional and dairy products and wines and has a magnificent showcase: the Paris International Agricultural Show.

We arrived at the show at about 1030, purchased our ticket for 13€, found the coat check in building 7 on the ground floor and started our tour of the exhibits.  First stop was Bella the cow,

Belle the Cow

Belle the Cow

she seems to be a well known figure here in France, perhaps she knows Elsie the Cow, the US celebrity. Her face is all over bags for the exposition; available for 3€ – we decided to pass. Pat snapped some photos and then we were on our way through the huge selection of Bovins (cattle).  We toured the Sheep (Ovins) and we walked around through various exhibits always heading in the direction of the regional cuisine, can you see a pattern here?  We tasted cheeses, nougat, pralines etc. along the way, we also came across a booth serving Aubrac Beef and making and

Aubrac beef and aligot

Aubrac beef and aligot

serving Aligot, the potato and cheese concoction, both were excellent the beef very flavorful and the Aligot like pureed potatoes with mozzarella cheese in it but with a better flavor.  We wandered the regional restaurants (Brittany, Normandy, Provence,  Loire, etc until we found what looked interesting and with a line, always a good sign.  The restaurant Le Geyracois, from the Limousin Region (Limoges), check out this video, sorry it in french but you will get the idea.

We chose the Menu for 33€ because are plan was to have leftover potato leek soup and

Pate of Beef and foie gras

Pate of Beef and foie gras

bread for dinner, which we will execute later this evening. Pat

Potato tarte

Potato tarte

had the potato tart, steak and dessert, she passed on the cheese plate.  I had the beef/foie gras pate, the lamb, the cheese plate and dessert.  we also order a small bottle of wine and a bottle of water.  A very nice lunch.

Pat's Steak

Pat’s Steak

Following lunch we wandered around more food stalls, mostly to-go type foods that all looked excellent and if we were not full could have eaten more.

We stopped at one booth were the proprietor was grilling Andouillette, a tripe based sausage that is definitely an acquired

Mike' grilled Lamb

Mike’ grilled Lamb

taste, its very old world French.

We continued on to the rabbits, fowl and more cows, cow are really the dominant animal at the show.  There were also vendors from French possessions or previous French colonies. There was jewelry, foods, and other interesting exhibits.

Grilling Andou

Grilling Andouillette (Tripe sausage)

In the afternoon is was already very crowded and when the number of strollers started to out number people we decided it was about time to head out.  Also we were getting tired of being abused by people with back-packs, who for some unknown reason have no clue that this huge appendage is on their back (See Travel Tips).

We departed at about 3:15 and took the #80 bus the Alma Marceau and transferred to the #63 arriving at our final stop at about 4:05.  We stopped at Nicolas for more wine, and the bakery for a lemon tart and bread to go with dinner.

 

 

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Paris 2014, Day 19 (Organ Concert)

Posted on February 23, 2014 by admin

Sunday is always a day of rest.  Only item on the agenda is to go to an Organ Concert at Saint Germain Des Pres church at 3:00.  Maybe a walk through the Blvd Grenelle market. There is an exhibit at the Musée Marmottan Monet which is located at 2, rue Louis Boilly in the 16th arrondissement of Paris. It features a collection of over three hundred Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works by Claude Monet (with the largest collection of his works in the world), Berthe Morisot, Edgar Degas, Édouard Manet, Alfred Sisley, Camille Pissarro, Paul Gauguin,Paul Signac and Pierre-Auguste Renoir.  There is also a temporary exhibit of 80 Monet’s held in private collection there as well at this time through the 6th of July 2014.  Sunday are often crowded so we will see if it today or another day.

Classic French Lady at Concert

Classic French Lady at Concert

See our November 2, 2012 post

See our November 2, 2013 post “Last day in Paris”

Note: check in with our friend Bruce, a fellow Space-A traveler who was over here shining in Austria, he got back to Germany on Friday and we think jumped a flight to the US but were no sure of his connection so were waiting to hear about his trio, hopefully in the next day or so.  We think he went to NJ and then were not sure.

The organist Bruno Beaufils at Eglise Saint Germain Des Pres

The organist Bruno Beaufils at Eglise Saint Germain Des Pres

We decided to take the bus over to Saint German to the concert, Sunday schedule so we jumped the metro to Alma Macu and the caught the #63.  We came across a street band that play Dixie on the corner we have seen them before check our November 2, 2013 post.

We arrived early so window IMG_4643shopped for about an hour and then to the church Eglise de Saint-Germain-des-pres for the concert.

The program:

Organist – Bruno Beaufils

 

Onion soup at Le Marathon

Onion soup at Le Marathon

After the concert to Cafe Bonaparte for a glass of wine then on to Le Marathon for and early dinner because we skipped lunch.

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Paris 2014, Day 18 Puces de Clignancourt et Ballet

Posted on February 22, 2014 by admin

We were off to meet martin, Paula, Vicky and Aaron at the Porte de Clignancourt metro stop, the last stop on the #4 line.  From there its a short walk to The Flea Market, also called the “Puces”- is a real institution and since 2001, has been recognized as a “Zone for the Protection of Architectural, Urban, and Landscape Heritage (ZPPAUP)” thanks to its unusual ambiance and atmosphere. It is considered as the largest antiques market and second-hand shop in the world. Map of the market.

The market covers seven hectares.  The Saint Ouen Flea Market near Paris hosts 15 markets which offer an authentic and a unique atmosphere.

The Flea market, steeped in history, is a real crossroads of the art bringing together antique dealers, designers, artisans and artists, as well as a powerful business location. Together, owners, presidents, managers, associations, artists, restaurant owners and carriers represent its framework and its legitimacy.

You can find them on Facebook.

Some of them are covered, others are open-air markets and every one of them overflows with varied goods, from all periods and countries. At the Flea Market, you can bargain-hunt classic antiques or restored top-end goods such as furniture, paintings, bronzes, art items or tapestries, mirrors, lamps, dishes…

You can find old discs, engravings, toys, posters, books, photography and other unusual items. You can also buy clothes, shoes and vintage or latest fashion accessories.

4th tourist landmark in France

The Saint-Ouen Flea Market is the largest concentration of antique dealers and second-hand goods dealers worldwide, receiving more than 5 millions of visitors each year including a lot of foreigners and even celebrities. This 4th tourist landmark in France, located north Paris in front of the 18th arrondissement, is held on Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays.
You will discover Paris in an original way and will be surprised as you walk around the “Puces”. It’s a real gold mine for vintage items lovers and antiques amateurs…

The market was officially created in 1885. It structured itself gradually to become today a worldwide reference for bric-a-brac shop. Now, with 1 700 merchants including 1 400 antique dealers, some sections of the market look more like a museum or an art gallery than a flea market. The main street is the rue des Rosiers leading to the Marchés Malassis, Dauphine, Biron and Vernaison.

This bric-a-brac atmosphere offers for those who bother to hang around a splendid and unusual sphere and the chance maybe to discover and negotiate the rare pearl…Moreover, you will find about twenty small popular and friendly restaurants and cafés where a band often plays music and you will see full of coloured characters…That is also the spirit of the Puces!

It’s trendy…

Cristo Gallery

Over the last few years, the Puces tend to renew themselves. As home decoration became very trendy in Paris, a lot of young Parisians try to find rare and original items. This is why innovations have been emerging such as Quintessence Playground which is the first concept store of the Puces. You can also find a trendy restaurant called Ma Cocotte, invented by the famous French designer Philippe Starck (he also created the club Lan 兰会所 in Beijing) based on a chic and popular canteen concept considered these past few years as very trendy in France. It also draws more and more Chinese tourists. Some of them come especially here to buy restored Chinese antiques at the CRISTO gallery.

We wandered the market for about 2 hours and we stopped for lunch at  La Napoli a small

Pizza with Chorizo, onion and olives

Pizza with Chorizo, onion and olives

Italian Bistro, most others could not accommodate 6 people, very common in the area especially for the French cafe and bistros.  We ordered pizza, Veal Scallopene, and various pastas.

Pat left us at about 1:00, after a just a glass of rose, and headed for a matinee ballet at the Opera Garnier, solo. The ballet experience deserves far more than “Pat went to the ballet.”  First of all, there’s the Opera Garnier! I was assigned a seat in the balcony, seat number 78 – which happened to be in the third row of the balcony and dead center. The seats in the two rows in front of me were much lower and mine was positioned off center of the ones in front of me. There were absolutely no visibility issues at all. The very comfortable seats were upholstered in red velvet and seat number in a gold emblem on the top of the back.

Ceiling at the Opera Garnier with images from ballets and operas painted by Chagall in 1964

Ceiling at the Opera Garnier with images from ballets and operas painted by Chagall in 1964.

The ballet was performed by the Opera National de Paris, the ballet company of 154 dancers who stage about 180 performances a year. Their average age is only 25, making them one of the youngest ballet companies. Fall River Legend, the ballet by Agnes de Mille, depicting the story of Lizzie Borden started the matinee. I had seen the ballet before, but it was great to see again in these fabulous surroundings. The ballet performs with a full orchestra, even in this small theater.  After a short intermission, the ballet continued with Birgit Cullberg’s Miss Julie.  Both choreographers were pioneers in 20th century dance, both pieces were striking, serious, and grave. Fall River was created in 1945, Miss Julie in 1950. Of course, photos were not permitted during the performances. Dancers were both technically precise and embodied the emotions the pieces dictated.

The Opera Garnier, very elegant

The Opera Garnier, very elegant

I met her after the performance and then we met  Martin and Paula and Aaron at Le Relais d’Entrecote for dinner on rue St Benoit.  The Relais has become much more of a tourist location, the entrecôte is still the best in Paris, however, the portions have gotten smaller, however, there are still two servings – not as much as you want.  We had room for dessert so we ordered three for the table.

Chestnut paste with ice cream

Chestnut paste with ice cream

Profiteroles

Profiteroles

IMG_4634

The Relais d’Entrecote house special

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Paris 2014, Day 17 – Chateau de St Germain en Laye

Posted on February 21, 2014 by admin
Chateau de St Germain en Laye

Chateau de St Germain en Laye

Off on the RER A1 (Zone 4)  to Chateau de St Germain en Laye for the day.

Arrived in St. Germain at about 1020.  Got off the train and explored the area around the Chateau and the Chateau Neuf erected adjacent to the old chateau.

 

Saint-Germain-en-Laye was founded in 1020 when King Robert the Pious (ruled 996-1031) founded a conventon the site of the present Church of Saint-Germain.

In 1688, James II, King of England, exiled himself to the city due to religious conflicts in his own country. He spent the remainder of his days there, and died on the 16th of September 1701.[1]

Prior to the French Revolution in 1789, it had been a royal town and the Château de Saint-Germain the residence of numerous French monarchs.

The Church of Saint-Germain.

The old château was constructed in 1348 by King Charles V on the foundations of an old castle (château-fort) dating from 1238 in the time of Saint Louis. Francis I was responsible for its subsequent restoration. In 1862, Napoleon III set up the Musée des Antiquités Nationales in the erstwhile royal château. This museum has exhibits ranging from Paleolithic to Celtic times. The “Dame de Brassempouy” sculpted on a mammoth’s ivory tusk around 23,000 years ago is the most famous exhibit in the museum.

Kings Henry IV and Louis XIII left their mark on the town.

 

Birth Place of Louis XIV

Birth Place of Louis XIV

Louis XIV was born in the château (the city’s coat of armsconsequently shows a cradle and the date of his birth), and established Saint-Germain-en-Laye as his principal residence from 1661 to 1681. Louis XIV turned over the château to James VII & II of Scotland and England after his exile from Britain after the Glorious Revolution in 1688. James live V, d in the Château for 13 years, and his daughter Louisa Maria Stuart was born in exile here in 1692. James II is buried in the Church of Saint-Germain.

View from the far end of the gardens

View from the far end of the gardens

Saint-Germain-en-Laye is famous for its 2.4 kilometre long stone terrace built by André Le Nôtre from 1669 to 1673. The terrace provides a view over the valley of the Seine and, in the distance, Paris.

The Treaty of Saint-Germain was signed in 1919 and was applied on July 16, 1920. The treaty officially registered the breakup of the Habsburg empire, which recognized the independence of Czechoslovakia, Poland, Hungary, and the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes (Yugoslavia).[2]

One of the German bunkers built in 1942

During the French Revolution, the name was changed along with many other places whose names held connotations of religion or royalty. Saint-Germain-en-Laye became Montagne-du-Bon-Air.

In the 19th century, Napoleon I established his cavalry officers training school in the Château-Vieux.

During the occupation from 1940 to 1944, the town was the headquarters of the German Army

We walked around the town of St Germain en Laye, which is the western bedroom community and is quiet affluent and has a large population of US Expats.  The shops are very upscale and represent most of the designers from Paris saving the residents the 15 Km drive in to Paris.

It was getting close to lunch time so we found a small cafe

Saint-Germain-en-Laye was founded in 1020 when King Robert the Pious (ruled 996-1031) founded a conventon the site of the present Church of Saint-Germain.

In 1688, James II, King of England, exiled himself to the city due to religious conflicts in his own country. He spent the remainder of his days there, and died on the 16th of September 1701.[1]

Prior to the French Revolution in 1789, it had been a royal town and the Château de Saint-Germain the residence of numerous French monarchs.

The Church of Saint-Germain.

The old château was constructed in 1348 by King Charles V on the foundations of an old castle (château-fort) dating from 1238 in the time of Saint Louis. Francis I was responsible for its subsequent restoration. In 1862, Napoleon III set up the Musée des Antiquités Nationales in the erstwhile royal château. This museum has exhibits ranging from Paleolithic to Celtic times. The “Dame de Brassempouy” sculpted on a mammoth’s ivory tusk around 23,000 years ago is the most famous exhibit in the museum.

Kings Henry IV and Louis XIII left their mark on the town.

Louis XIV was born in the château (the city’s coat of armsconsequently shows a cradle and the date of his birth), and established Saint-Germain-en-Laye as his principal residence from 1661 to 1681. Louis XIV turned over the château to James VII & II of Scotland and England after his exile from Britain after the Glorious Revolution in 1688. James lived in the Château for 13 years, and his daughter Louisa Maria Stuart was born in exile here in 1692. James II is buried in the Church of Saint-Germain.

Saint-Germain-en-Laye is famous for its 2.4 kilometre long stone terrace built by André Le Nôtre from 1669 to 1673. The terrace provides a view over the valley of the Seine and, in the distance, Paris.

The Treaty of Saint-Germain was signed in 1919 and was applied on July 16, 1920. The treaty officially registered the breakup of the Habsburg empire, which recognized the independence of Czechoslovakia, Poland, Hungary, and the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes (Yugoslavia).[2]

One of the German bunkers built in 1942

During the French Revolution, the name was changed along with many other places whose names held connotations of religion or royalty. Saint-Germain-en-Laye became Montagne-du-Bon-Air.

In the 19th century, Napoleon I established his cavalry officers training school in the Château-Vieux.

During the occupation from 1940 to 1944, the town was the headquarters of the German Army

Pat in Saint germain en Laye February 2014

Pat in Saint germain en Laye February 2014

We walked around the town and it was afar lunch so we decided we best eat so we selected a cafe, Le Bon Accueil, where all of the patrons were French and locals so they knew each other, only French was spoken.  We were welcomed by the proprietor and he offered the Plat du Jour and no menus were offered, we had the Plat which was Joues du Porc, or Pig

Pock Cheeks and Fries

Pock Cheeks and Fries

Cheeks, that were braised and served with a dipping sauce of thickened cooking juice and lardons and either fries or pasta, we chose one of each.  The dish was excellent.

We caught up with Martin and Paula and family, her mom has joined from California for about 10 day so we had Moules and Frietes and then headed home.

 

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