Paris Day 16 (Museum)

After a late night were hanging out having coffee.  My plan is to make us an omelet forlunch maybe with mushrooms and onions, however, I suspect Pat will want her’s a’ Nature.

Its beginning to rain outside so we may head for a museum, perhaps the Musée Nissim de Camondo which we have not been to for several years and it is always being restored.

Musée Nissim de Camondo

Musée Nissim de Camondo

http://vintagegoodness.com/new-goodness-at-auction-on-ebay-this-week-13/ One of the most sumptuous private homes from the early twentieth century in Paris
Moïse de Camondo, a reputed Parisian banker during the Belle Epoque, was a passionate collector of French furniture and art objects from the eighteenth century, ans he amassed a collection of unusual quality. In 1911, he hired architect René Sergent to build a private mansion next to Parc Monceau that would be worthy of this collection and suitable for his family. The design was modeled after that of the Petit Trianon in Versailles, but behind the handsome décor of wood-paneled apartments were hidden the accoutrements of modern life, including kitchens, offices and bathrooms. The home, which is fully preserved in its original condition, offers an opportunity to discover the taste of a great collector and to get a glimpse of the everyday life of an aristocratic home.

The facade of the Nissim de Camondo Museum, located on an elegant residential street near Parc Monceau, was inspired by the Petit Trianon at Versailles. This urban townhouse mansion is furnished with the finest in 18th century decorative arts: paintings, furniture, tapestries, etc.

18th century design

18th century design

But all the finery and elegance could not protect its former occupants from a tragic fate. The house and it’s contents were willed to the Musee Arts Decoratifs in Paris in 1933 by Moise de Camondo, in memory of his son, Nissim, an aviator killed in aerial combat in 1917. Moise’s daughter, Beatrice and her family, the last descendants of Moise, were deported by the Germans in 1943 and perished at Auschwitz.

The mansion appears that the family just walked out the door, each of the rooms is exquisitely decorated. It’s collections are often considered to be on a par with the Frick Collection in NYC. From a chandelier with goose-egg size drops of

Part of the kitchen on the first floor

Part of the kitchen on the first floor

amethyst, rock crystal, and smokey quartz to its vast collection of Sevres, Meissen, and Chantilly porcelain, the rooms can be overwhelming and it’s easy to miss important objets d’art collected by Moise de Camondo, throughout his life.We finally pieced together the story of Moise de Camondo, the great grandson of a devout Sephardic Jew who headed a large family bank. Moise was born in Constantinople in 1860, moved with his father and uncle to Paris when they were establishing a

Kitchen oven and stove

Kitchen oven and stove

branch of the family bank. Both brothers died in 1889, after each purchased property on the Monceau plain and, after developing their business to a very prosperous bank. In fact they had been known as “the Rothschilds of the East.” Moise’s cousin, Isaac, took over the bank and his father’s property and continued to develop and collect according to his eclectic tastes from 18th-century furniture to Impressionist art. Isaac died in 1911 and his brother Moise took over business interests of the bank. Upon Isaac’s death, his art collection was was left to France and can be found in the Louvre and Musee des Arts Decoratifs.

Meanwhile, back at 63 rue de Monceau (the site of the current museum), Moise inherited the Hotel Violet from his mother when she died in 1910. Moise demolished the structure at IMG_4591the end of the year and replaced it with a Petit-Trianon inspired mansion. The architect was forced to work around antique wainscoting and other items Moise had purchased, in addition to his vast collection of 18th century art, tapestries, rugs, furniture, porcelain, and collectibles.

Moise finally took up residence with his children, Nissim and Beatrice, about the beginning of WWI. Moise and his wife, Irene Cahen d’Anvers, had divorced in 1901. Nissim had entered France’s defense forces as a lieutenant pilot and was killed in aerial combat in September 1917 and was posthumously awarded the Legion d’Honneur.  Nissim was the intended heir of both the home, its vast collections, and the IMG_4583bank. The bank permanently closed after Nissim’s death.

In 1933, Moise bequeathed his townhouse and collections to the state in order to preserve them in the honor and memory of his son, Nissim de Camondo. Moise, himself died in 1935. Nissim’s sister, Beatrice had married and had a son and daughter. In 1943, she and her family were arrested and sent to Auschwitz where they perished – the last descendants of the de Camondo clan.

The museum’s interior arrangement is very close to as it appeared at Moise’s death. In fact, in early 1936 photographs were taken of each room to document the items and their position. These photos are on display in one of the upstairs rooms. The chandeliers and woodwork details are gorgeous. Window treatments, wall treatments, upholstery, rugs, and the porcelain cabinet are over-the-top. There are clocks and barometers in every room. Rooms are designed on axis to take advantage of the views of Parc Monceau.

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Paris Day 15 (Recovery)

We slept in until about 0830 this morning then sat around and did a whole lot of nothing.

Bon Marche

Bon Marche

We were trying to recover from both our trip to Senlis (see previous days post) and wine and cheese (our dinner, after the big lunch in Senlis) with friends in Saint Germain des Prés.

We headed out of here after lunch time, we had croissants for breakfast and 2 pots of coffee and were skipping lunch in anticipation of dinner at La Cordonnerie tonight (Hugo’s restaurant).

We took the bus over to the 6th arrondissement to the Jardins des Plantes to walk around

Allee at the Jardin des Plantes

Allee at the Jardin des Plantes

and enjoy a sunny day, although the wind was a bit blustery.

We walked, took photos and enjoyed the gardens for about 2 hours and then headed over to Bon Marche and the La Grande Epicerie de  Paris.  We found that both store have been completely refinished on the inside and some places it was still a work-in-progress.

We were truing to decide bus or metro on the way home but

A rose in the garden

A rose in the garden

chose the bus because there is more to see and it was still light outside.

When we arrived home we poured a glass of wine, rosé for Pat and Cote du Rhone for Mike, sliced up two Comice pears and some comté cheese for a light snack, the pears were excellent.  We’re still working on a piece of 30-month old comté also

Parsley, Sage rosemary and thyme, someone should write a song -- Oh I thing Paul Simon did!

Parsley, Sage rosemary and thyme, someone should write a song — Oh I thing Paul Simon did!

delicious.

We’re now catching up on blogs and Facebook (Pat) and anticipating dinner.

Report back later!

Dinner was great Pat started with a salad of fresh-water shrimp, apple and a citrus dressing, I had the fricasseed mushrooms with a rosemary cream sauce and some truffle

Cod fish with a citrus butter sauce an fries La Cordonnerie, Paris

Cod fish with a citrus butter sauce an fries La Cordonnerie, Paris

reduction, both were excellent.  We followed the first course with Cod for Pat poaches in light citrus sauce and then finished with a citrus butter sauce, very nice plate.  Pat of course asked Hugo

Braised leg of rabbit with scallop potatoes and carrots in a rabbit reduction.

Braised leg of rabbit with scallop potatoes and carrots in a rabbit reduction.o to substitute fries for the rice and it also was accompanied by sautéed zucchini.

to substitute fries for the rice and it also was accompanied by sautéed zucchini.

I opted for the leg of rabbit that was braised with carrots and onions, so tender you did not need a knife which had a rich rabbit stock, scalloped potatoes and  poached carrots.

We ove indulged with wine, Cote de Provence, two bottles, and passed on dessert but not before we made a reservation for the following Wednesday night. We spent a long time chatting with Hugo about food, his mom and his dad, his dad died back in 1997 and Hugo’s struggle with taking over the restaurant after his dads death.  Valerie made a short appearance on her way to take their dog for a walk. We met a couple from Wyoming who grow organic wheat and were stopping in Paris on their way home from a trade who in Germany.

We depart the restaurant at about 11:30 PM, the bus had stopped running so we jumped the metro for the ride home.

Hugo in the Kitchen and the folks from Wyoming getting Bananas Flame.

 

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Paris 2014, Day 14 (Senlis)

Breakfast at Gare du Nord

Breakfast at Gare du Nord

We rose early and headed to Gare du Nord to buy tickets and board the 0910 train to Senlis. It was a cold and over cast day and we were hoping for some cleared skies in the country.  We had arrived fairly early at the train station, (we left plenty of time to get from our apartment in the 16th arr, ride the bus across Paris, and negotiate our tickets to Senlis). The hardest part was finding the proper ticket window at Gare du Nord. There is a specific Metro/RER ticket sales area, a specific TGV ticket sales area, and a specific TER ticket sales area.

second class seats on the suburban train TER

second class seats on the suburban train TER

The Senlis Train Station, now deactivated and a bus routiere

The Senlis Train Station, now deactivated and a bus routiere

Senlis is about a 30-minute train ride north of Paris and then a 20-minute bus ride.  We purchased  our ticket from  Paris to Senlis (41€ for 2 round trip tickets) the train goes to Chantilly Gouvieux and then you board the 15 bus to Senlis, show your ticket to the driver and he will punch your ticket and drop you off at the former Senlis Train Station.

A word of caution do not get off the train by mistake at Orry de Ville, because you may not find the bus to Sanlis G.R. waiting, after all you are in the French countryside. In our case, it worked out and we had a pleasant ride through the countryside with suburban type enclaves, farms, horse farms, towns.

Market Day in Senlis

Market Day in Senlis

When we arrived in Senlis, there was a street market happening (Tuesday) so we walked the market before heading to the Tourist Office.  Markets are always Mike’s thing. We don’t have to buy anything – just look, observe, smell, and listen. This was a typical small town market with everything from food to clothing to household goods and even fabric/thread/buttons. All of the streets in the town center were filled with vendors of one sort or another.  While walking to the tourist office we checked out restaurants and cafes (menus) for our pending lunch – we are a couple who travel on our stomachs after all!.

The Tourist Office staff was very welcoming; we were given a map, a bus schedule and some information about the return bus trip. Then we headed off on the tourist trail following the map as best we could with a tourist map with the tourist office marked on the wrong spot.

From the ramparts, a peek at La Nonette River

From the ramparts, a peek at La Nonette River

Our hopes for a clearer day in the country were not realized; it was damper and felt colder here than in Paris. The streets and walks were all cobbled, the buildings mostly stone. Though we did see a few half-timbered structures. The stone walls of Senslis date back to the third century, built as fortifications by the Romans with 30 towers – some remaining. The streets within the walls are tight picturesque streets with many businesses on the first floor interspersed with residences. But, you think the Fan has parking problems? This is a whole new level.

Cathedra in Senlis

Cathedra in Senlis

The cathedral in the center of town dates back to the 1100’s. The medieval fortifications, ramparts around the outside of city, provide a great place to stroll. A portion was closed for repairs so we were unable to complete the entire circuit. We did stroll through the Parc du Palais Royal, built by St-Louis in 1262. Chappelle Royale St-Frambourg is now in private hands (a foundation) restored to be an auditorium in 1973, but its only open limited hours: March to June and from September to November only the last Saturday of the month. So we were unable to check out the stained glass by Joan Miro.

We lunched at a restaurant near the cathedral, Le Scaramouche, a bistrot gourmand. www.le-scaramouche.fr  The plat du jour was a shaded beef with onions, mushrooms, and a smoked paprika sauce. Mike selected  duck pate followed by a brochette of tender lamb with a cream sauce with onions and carrots over rice.

We arrived back in Paris at about 1700 and headed back tot he apartment, we had texted Martin and Paula earlier but they were out shopping and they do not have cell service on their phone  My phone battery died as we got back to Paris, using any GPS/Location apps will run your battery down ASAP.

We agreed to meet up with M&P at La Palette, 43 rue de Seine,  for drinks, we arrived

Wine and cheese with Martin and Paula

Wine and cheese with Martin and Paula

about 1915 and headed home about 2000 after a couple bottles of Rosé and a cheese board and bread, perfect after our generous lunch.  We were outside under a heater and did not realize how cold we really were and after a day outside it was good to get back to the apartment.

Some Views around Senlis:

Inside the cathedral

Inside the cathedral

Half-timbered house

Half-timbered house

Half-timbered structure with a storefront on the rdc

Half-timbered structure with a storefront on the rdc

Interesting set of doors

Interesting set of doors

A statue of the hunt

A statue of the hunt

in the garden

in the garden

IMG_4522

IMG_4520

IMG_4498

walls around center city

walls around center city

 

 

 

 

From the website http://www.beyond-paris.com/senlis.html

Senlis

There are some towns in France that are just great to visit. Towns that have a life about them, some interesting things to see for sure, but just reward you for visiting. Senlis (pronounced Son-Lee) is one of those.

The town retains a lot of its medieval charm while not feeling like you are visiting a museum. Rather, the town has kept the best of the past and has the best of today.

Senlis is about 53km/33mi from Paris, almost directly to the North.

buy Latuda without prescription What to see

Part of what makes this town great to visit is just the vibe of the town. Really the best thing to do is to wander around.

The tourist office (opposite the cathedral) has a map of the town with a number of walking trails that intersect with each other (ie one starts where the previous one ends) so you can choose the length of the walk you want to do and the sights you want to see.

The main sights in Senlis are the Cathedral, the castle royal, the hotel de ville, and the Saint Vincent abbey.

The medieval centre to the town is great to wander around. There are a wide range of old buildings, small pathways and remains of the city walls to walk around. There are great cafes and salon de teas in and amongst the city buildings to stop and take a hot or cold beverage and sample some local cake’s.

The Cathedral Notre Dame de l’Assomption de Senlis is one of the dominant features of the town. It was built in the late 1100’s and much of the original cathedral remains, despite a fire in the 1500’s. It has the distinction of being one of the smallest catherals in France and at the moment there is work being undertaken to restore the gates to their original colors.

The Royal Palace was a castle home to a number of dynasties before it became a “Palais Royal” under Louis VI in the 12th century. This was not open to the public when we were there, but much of the structure and the castle walls are visible from around the outside.

In the medieval times the town was fortified by circular walls. Some of these walls remain, and it is possible to walk in and around them. Even where the walls are no longer extant it is possible to see where they were by the circular layout of the city streets.

One of the unique features in Senlis is the Roman arena. Dating from 1st Century (before or after Christ?) the arena was rediscovered in 1865 and has been partially excavated. Visits are through organised tours only, so it is important to contact thetourist office before going to Senlis if you want to visit the arena.

There are also four museums in the town.

Things to do

  • Take coffee in the old part of the town
  • Walk around the old ramparts
  • Explore the Gallo-Roman remains
  • Uncover hidden secrets in the small winding medieval backstreets.
  • Choose one, two, or all of the walking trails recommended by the Tourist Office.

How to get there

Senlis is slightly more complicated than other towns to get to as there is no direct rail link. However there is only one change and it is not difficult.

Trains leave from Gare du Nord and go via Chantilly (change at “Chantilly Gouvieux” station) or Creil (change at “Creil” station).

If you are changing at Chantilly the bus stop (Gare Routiere) is beside the train station. Exit the train station through the main entrance into the car park. Turn left on Rue d’Orgemont. Walk along infront of the train station and just beside the train station is the bus stop. If you don’t speak French, asking the driver “Son-lee?” when you hope on and showing them your ticket (see below) should let you know if you are on the right bus. The first bus stop is for Senlis, it should be labeled with a timetable – its a good opportunity to check when the last bus leaves Senlis for Chantilly.

We have not taken the route from Criel so cannot comment on how easy it is.

If you purchase a ticket from Paris all the way to Senlis you will not need to buy a bus ticket in Chantilly or Criel. This is useful for getting on the bus because you can show the ticket to the conductor when you board to make sure you are on the right bus.

Ironically, the main bus stop for Senlis is the now abandoned train station. From here it is a short walk into the main old section of the town.

The tourist office (opposite the Cathedral) in Senlis can tell you when the buses leave Senlis for your return journey and show you where from (they speak good English). You can then buy your bus ticket on the bus for Chantilly or Criel and your train ticket at the Chantilly or Criel train station. This saves you having to predetermine when you want to return.

While trains are reasonably frequent, it is a good idea to make sure that you know when the last train leaves for Paris before you leave.

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Paris 2014, Day 13 (Hangin’ in the 16th.)

We decided to stay close to home today, trim the flowers out front and maybe take a walk around the neighborhood.

I love it when a plan comes together.  Pat was puttering out front with some flowers that

Pat's plantings

Pat’s plantings

looked like they were half dead shortly after we arrived.  We realized they were under the overhang so they were getting no water.  We watered them and they returned to life so today Pat planted them so I snapped some photos.

Looking pretty good for survivors.

Looking pretty good for survivors.

While Pat was planting I did a bit of cooking and food prep.  I cooked off some fresh egg noodles for a dinner

Potato leek soup

Potato leek soup

at a later time and made some potato leek soup which we will have for dinner to night soon.

I also remembered to call Hugo at

Noodles and bread crumbs from left over baguettes.

Noodles and bread crumbs from left over baguettes.La Cordonnerie for reservation on Wednesday night in the Kitchen. It’s hard to believe we have been here two weeks and have not gone to La Cordonnerie for

La Cordonnerie for a reservation on Wednesday night in the Kitchen. It’s hard to believe we have been here two weeks and have not gone to La Cordonnerie for

Looking forward to seeing Hugo again.

Looking forward to seeing Hugo again.

dinner, my guess is that our late arrival completely threw off our schedule.

We decided to take the bus over to the Parc Monceau and get some exercise and fresh air and also take some photos.

 

A LITTLE HISTORY ON THE PARC MONCEAU:

In 1769, the Duke of Chartres, acquired the land on which he built the “Folie de Chartres” surrounded by a garden “in French.” He later commissioned amateur landscaper/writer/painter Carmontelle to create his garden.  Carmontelle’s theatrical background yielded a garden of dreams which gave a unique, exotic at the Parc Monceau drawing inspiration from English and German trends of the time. Visitors saw the emergence of buildings of all styles and from all eras: the ruins of a temple of Mars, and a Gothic castle, minaret, Dutch windmill, Egyptian pyramid, Chinese pagoda tent tartare, many small buildings fantasy that made it famous Anglo-Chinese garden.

Rivers were dug, and the famous Naumachie, a basin surrounded by Corinthian columns (in Ancient Rome it was a pool which was used to mimic naval battles),  Carmontelle was even inspired by Grave Valois of the Basilica of Saint-Denis. Parc Monceau was divided in 1787, by the construction of the wall of the Farmers-General. The Pavilion of Chartres with its rotunda of columns, served as a tollhouse and was built by Ledoux, adjacent to the current boulevard de Courcelles.  A part on the first floor, that you can still see, was converted into a lounge by the Duke of Chartres, from which he could admire a breathtaking view over the plain of Parc Monceau. In 1793, a greenhouse, a conservatory, and new paths arose under the leadership of Thomas Blaikie, author of the wonderful Parc de Bagatelle, who transformed the Parc Monceau in English garden.

Parc Monceau became national property during the Revolution, it was returned to the Orleans family, but it did not stay in their hands very long. The state acquired it in 1852. Parc Monceau was then changed dramatically. Financial woes caused part of the park to be sold and many mansions on the sides East, South and West, including museums Cernuschi (Asian art) and Nissim de Camondo (18th century) were built. They are now part of the prestigious district of Monceau, but the park was therefore cut in half, reduced to 22 acres. Drawings Parc Monceau were modified for the last time by the engineer Alphand, the architect and horticulturist Davioud barrel-Deschamps, who worked under the orders of Baron Haussmann. In 1861, Napoleon III was finally able to inaugurate the Monceau park we know today.

Walking:

The appearance of the Parc Monceau has not changed since then, and Marcel Proust who loved to wander recognize it easily. You enter the Parc Monceau by large wrought iron gates with gold enhanced, four-doors bear the signature of Davioud. Parc Monceau is one of the most beautiful gardens in the capital, visited by mothers and their children, some tourists and the Russian community who attend to the Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (1861) nearby.

Enjoy the tranquility in the Parc Monceau, isolated by a green belt, of luxury buildings and luxurious mansions. You will find many statues (monument Gounod -1897 – and -1906 Musset – Antonin Mercier, Chopin by Jacques Froment Meurice -1906 – Ambroise Thomas Alexander Falguière -1902 – Guy de Maupassant by Raoul Verlet -1897 – Edward Pailleron Leopold Bernstam -1906 -), and among the sights, a Renaissance arcade of the Hotel de Ville de Paris which burned during the Commune.

Monceau Park is home to spectacular trees including a sycamore with twisted branches, which is the oldest (1853), the largest (4.18 m) and the highest in the district (30m). However, his impressive girth easily competes with that of the oldest Oriental plane (1814), which reached 7 meters!

The massive antlers of a purple maple “on elephant skin” thriving in the midst of a multitude of other trees (Corsican pine, hackberry Provence, Paulownia, silver linden, honey locust, tree of Judea, tulip tree, tree with pockets …) small shrubs and ever-changing floral baskets.

Parc Monceau is also green area of ​​the district which contains a great diversity of birds – which we heard on our walk today. They are attracted by the shelter of the high trees and the cool fresh waters of the basin, inhabited by big carp and smaller goldfish. If you go to the  Parc Monceau in May, you will witness mallards escorting their young chicks. Tit nun, which is often observed in the garden, always move in pairs.

Jays are also regulars at the Parc Monceau. They are easily recognizable by their light beige plumage and a spot of a bright blue on their wing. Their cries are inharmonious and some are able to imitate other species, even the mewing of a cat! Readily distracted, or overcome by OCD, they abandon often unintentionally acorns they hid too well, which helps increase the number of oaks.

The Allee Michael Berger

The northern half of the allele in the Parc Monceau was named Michel Berger in December 2012. It is 210 meters long. This performer, composer, producer and artistic director marked the French popular culture, in the late 1980s.

 

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Paris 2014, Day 12 (A Day of Markets)

Todays cheese: Aligot, more than a simple cheese

Aligot is a dish traditionally made in L’Aubrac (Aveyron, Cantal, Lozère,) region in southern Massif Central of France made from melted cheese blended into mashed potatoes, often with some garlic. This fondue-like dish from the Aveyron department is a common sight in Auvergne restaurants.

Traditionally made with the Tomme de Laguiole or Tomme d’Auvergne cheese, aligot is a French country speciality highly appreciated in the local gastronomy with Toulouse sausages or roast pork. Other cheeses are used in place of Tomme, including mozzarella and cantal. The Laguiole cheese imparts a nutty flavour.

Aligot being made at the Grenelle Market.

Aligot being made at the Grenelle Market.

Aligot is made from mashed potatoes blended with butter, cream, crushed garlic, and the melted cheese. The dish is ready when it develops a smooth, elastic texture. While recipes vary, the Larousse Gastronomique gives the recipe as 1 kg  potatoes, 500 g tomme fraîche, Laguiole, or Cantal cheese, 2 garlic cloves, 30 g butter, salt, pepper.

This dish was originally made using bread by monks, who prepared it for the pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela who stopped for a night in that region. Potatoes were substituted after their introduction to France. Today, it is enjoyed for village gatherings and celebrations as a main dish. Aligot is still cooked by hand in Aveyron, at home as well as in street markets. Aligot is traditionally served with Auvergne red wine.

ingredients (serves 6):

– 300 g of fresh Tomme d’Auvergne
– 500 g of potatoes mealy
– 50 g of butter
– 20 cl of cream
– 1 clove of garlic
- salt and pepper

Preparation of the recipe:

Cook the peeled potatoes for 25 to 30 minutes in a pan of water. Drain.
Then reduce them to a puree and season with butter, cream, crushed garlic, a little salt and pepper.
Cut the cheese into very thin slices. On low heat, add the cheese puree.
For at least 15 minutes, beat the ground with a large wooden spoon, forming “eight”, and lifting until a smooth dough that cleans the sides of the pan and file.

Serve each plate: a big lift aligot tape and cut it with scissors

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We were out in the morning headed to the Boulevard Grenelle Market which stretches along under the metro from Boulevard de Grenelle, between rue Lourmel and rue du Commerce (Metro: La Motte-Piquet Grenelle)

Vegetables properly displayed

Vegetables properly displayed

The Boulevard Grenelle market, in the 15th arrondissement  is a combination food, housewares, clothing, etc. the markets held every Wednesday and Sunday.   While we always like going to the President Wilson Market in the 16th because of the

Cut of lamb you will not find at your local grocery store in Richmond

Cut of lamb you will not find at your local grocery store in Richmond

upscale nature the Grenelle market offer better prices and equal quality, especially where fish is concerned.  The Grenelle market is where we usually choose to buy a rotisserie chicken, if not from out local butcher, because of so

Large sea scallops in the shell

Large sea scallops in the shell

many vendor from which to choose.  You can buy whole, parts, duck, roast pork piece of your choosing, with potatoes, rice, and the list goes on to create a typical French Sunday dinner.

Pat shopping for her bag.

Pat shopping for her bag.

Pat got lucky and scored a great deal on a purse for 20€ very smart looking and it has a pocket for her Navigo metro pass.  Nothing was on our list so no food purchases were made on this particular Sunday.  We departed the market about 1130 headed for Puces de Vanves.

Pat score at the market

Pat score at the market

Rosed on display

Rosed on display

We metro-ed to the Avenue de la Porte de Vanves and rue Marc Sangnier (Arr 14) and arrived at about 1145.  This market is on Friday and Sunday from 0700-1930 but don’t always believe the end time, the markets will

Puces de Vanves flea market

Puces de Vanves flea market

Puces de Vanves

Puces de Vanves

break down early if business is slow or the weather less than optimal.  On this particular Sunday they were breaking down at about 1330 but there were almost 200 vendors and much to see, again nothing to buy on out list, but we always enjoy the looking.

About 1345 I got a text from Martin, who were were going to their apartment for market IMG_4458chicken that their local butcher had run out of rotisserie roasted potatoes so if we ran across them “please pick some up”.  The Grenelle market was on our way back to the apartment so we IMG_4454detoured through the market and got a great end-of-market buy on the potatoes, half price!  A deal always makes one happy 😃 no matter where you are, we got a great price and the vendor did not have to eat too many potatoes that night.

IMG_4451We hung around the apartment for about and hour and then started our cross town trip to Martin and Paula’s, we had to make a stop at the Villa Mazarin Hotel, at 6 rue des Archives to check it out for friends coming later this year.  Pat negotiated with the front desk to give us a key to see one of their standard rooms, all

Young adults resting prior to dinner. Aaron, Ginny and Haley

Young adults resting prior to dinner. Aaron, Ginny and Haley

in French, good job Pat!  We took some photos which we sent to Zoe Ann.

We then headed to Martin and Paula’s.  A good healthy walk through the Marais which was extremely crowed due to a sunny Sunday in Paris with mild temperatures.

We arrived at about 1610 to wine and chess and then a dinner of roast chicken, salad, chicken with Taziki sauce, bread and of course the market potatoes.  A great Sunday dinner with friends and their family.

My dinner at Martin and Paul's Sunday 2/16/2014

My dinner at Martin and Paul’s Sunday 2/16/2014

Gelato from Amorino, 25 location in Paris

Gelato from Amorino, 25 location in Paris

After dinner we walked to get Gelato at Amorino‘s gelato shop where they make the cone into a flower. Martin’s treat!👍

We quickly walked back to their apartment because it was beginning to rain, we did not bring umbrellas bacusee the chance was only 3% which was our luck, but by the time we talked and looked at some photo the rain stopped and we made our way to the metro for the trip home.  We arrived home at about 2200, poured a glass of wine and watched a movie before turning in for the night.

 

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Paris 2014, Day 11

President Wilson Market at 1000.  We walked the market then off to brunch;  then to Montmartre, via the #30 bus,  so Pat and Paula could shop for fabric.  Martin and I walked around for a bit and then settled in a Cafe for a couple glass of Gamay.

Montmartre is a hill in the north of Paris, France. It is 130 metres high and gives its name to the surrounding district, in the 18th arrondissement, a part of the Right Bank

Martin and Paula took the bus back to their apartment and Pat and I took the funicular to the top and then walked to the artists square and look at the artist work.  We bought a crepe and shared it and then we grabbed the  Montmartrobus, a new service from the top of Montmarte to the bottom along Boulevard de Clichy. We boarded the number #30 bus to Trocadéro then the #63 to our apartment to relax for the evening.

The montmartrobus

The Montmartrobus

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Paris 2014, Day 10

Valentines Day and our 13th anniversary; and loving ever moment.

Martin, Paula, Aaron and Ginny were coming for dinner and our event was to start at 1700.

Onions and Mushrooms prepared for sautéing

Onions and Mushrooms prepared for sautéing

Pat went for croissants while I began prep for dinner, which was Boeuf Bourguignon.  I had prepped the onion yesterday, always a task and roasted the bones and simmered the beef stock overnight.  I strained the stock, a china cap would have been great, but one make do with a simple strainer.

I began by cutting up the beef and then sautéing in small batches until brown, I had about 3 pounds of meat so it took  some time.  I had rendered the lardons before the beef and set them aside.

While the meat was sautéing Pat and I had coffee and croissants from a different bakery around the corner.

Boeuf bourguignon cooking in the oven.

Boeuf bourguignon cooking in the oven.

Not to get bogged down in the details; while the bourguignon was cooking Pat and I when out to get champagne, Pate, Cheese and baguettes.

The evening festivities began at about 1710 and at about 2100 the group departed, after a couple of rounds of electronic “Catch Phrase”.  Pat and I loaded the dishwasher with the remaining items and then we decided to walk to Place du Trocadéro to watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle at 2200, but checking our watch we only had  about 15 minutes to walk the distance so we took the metro the 1 stop and walked back from Place du Trocadéro about 700 meters (about ½ mile).

The Eiffel Tower doing it's thing on the hour!

The Eiffel Tower doing it’s thing on the hour!

 

Pat and I do our first Selfie

Pat and I do our first Selfie

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Paris 2014, Day 9 (Croissant Crawl – Part 1)

We are soooo… Bad, every night we say were going to go to bed early and get up early and we never do.  Last night we stayed up to watch The Descendants, a George Cluny movies about a dysfunctional family living in Hawaii.

The Croissant Crawl began at 1000.

The tasting: we decided to judge each croissant on Exterior Crispness, Interior flakiness and doneness and taste, the more butter the better.  The score 1-5.

The #5 on the list was here in our arrondissement, so we started there a short 400 meter walk we found Frédéric Lalos of Boulangerie des Belles Feuilles, 22 Rue des Belles Feuilles, 75016

Frédéric Lalos of Boulangerie des Belles Feuilles, 22 Rue des Belles Feuilles, 75016

Frédéric Lalos of Boulangerie des Belles Feuilles, 22 Rue des Belles Feuilles, 75016

Pat took photos of the exterior and I when in to purchase.  Croissants here are 1.10€

The Exterior has a nice crispness (3), the interior was flaky and

Frédéric Lalos' Croissant

Frédéric Lalos’ Croissant

not overly moist (4) and the tasty was buttery (3).  Overall we rated this a 3 of 5.

rédéric Lalos' Interior - Light, not too moist

Frédéric Lalos’ Interior – Light, not too moist

We walked back to the metro and headed to the 15th arrondissement for the #9 contender on the list.  We took the metro to Cambronne.  From

Frédéric Pichard of Boulangerie Pichard, 88 Rue Cambronne, 75015

Frédéric Pichard of Boulangerie Pichard, 88 Rue Cambronne, 75015

there we had a hike 850 meter to the shop. The Frédéric Pichard of Boulangerie Pichard, 88 Rue Cambronne, 75015.

This particle baker as won multiple times; a first place in 2011 and

Frédéric Pichard's croisant

Frédéric Pichard’s croissant

second place in 2012.

Again, I left Pat in charge of photography and I went to purchase a croissant.  This time it was only 1 euro.

We inspected the product and gave it a 3 for the crispiness, broke it

Slightly under cooked with a dark bottom

Slightly under cooked with a dark bottom

open ind inspect the interior and then the taste. We noted that the bottom was a bit over done, not objectionable but not perfect either.  The score exterior 3, interior a 2 it was not fully cooked and the taste was a 2, it may have been higher but burnt bottom caused a lower score. Over all 2.

 

On ward to #4 on the list, Anthony Bosson of Boulangerie

Anthony Bosson of Boulangerie L’Essentiel 2 rue Mouffetard 75005

Anthony Bosson of Boulangerie L’Essentiel 2 rue Mouffetard 75005L

L’Essentiel, on the rue Mouffetard a shopping street in the 5th which we have visited before during our early hotel days when visiting Paris.  We arrive at 1130, which is really not the prime time to be trying a croissant for competition but then it is what it

Anthony Bosson's croissant

Anthony Bosson’s croissant

is.  I purchased a croissant for 1.10€ and we took it through the paces.  The croissant was excellent, and our favorite for the day, Exterior 3, interior 3+ and the taste a 4, probably would have gotten even

So far the leader in the pack

So far the leader in the pack

higher marks if it were earlier. Over alls 4.

Of course while I was IMG_4417buying – Pat was window shopping and snapped some photos of other delights. Coffee and Hot Chocolate at a local Cafe and thenIMG_4416 back to the apartment to collect our bags for a trip to the Carefour for tomorrow nights dinner Bouef Bourguignon.

 

Afternoon prep and then dinner at Le Relais Du Bois, to start a Portage de Legumes, Sole Meunier for Pat and you guessed it, Foie de Veau for me; a bottle of Chinon from the Luberon. Pat handed the fish like a French woman, she has arrived.

The Croissant Crawl will continues nest week, the dat to be determined.

 

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Paris 2014, Day 8

Todays Cheese: Morbier

Morbier Cheese

Morbier is a semi-soft cows’ milk cheese of France named after the small village of Morbier in Franche-Comté

Morbier is an aromatic and surprisingly mild French cow’s milk AOC cheese defined by the dark vein of vegetable ash streaking through it middle. Today, the ash is purely decorative, a nod to the method by which Morbier was once produced in Franche-Comté. Traditionally, the evening’s fresh curds were sprinkled with ash to prevent the formation of a rind overnight. The next morning, new curds were laid upon the thin layer of ash to finish off the wheel. The wheel was then washed and rubbed by hand, forming a rind to protect the rich, creamy interior and to create a delectably stinky aroma. Morbier, which is aged for at least 60 days, pleasantly confounds expectations. Contrary to its smell, Morbier has a mild taste and leaves a wonderful, nutty aftertaste. Morbier is excellent served with Gewürztraminer or Pinot Noir.

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Not  much to report today – I worked on the blog in the morning and some recipes for Friday and Pat when off the meet Paula, Haley and Ginny at the Grand Palace for another tour of the Cartier Exhibit.  I left about 1100 to meet Martin and Aaron at their apartment we were headed out to try an new micro brewery here in Paris.  The name The Frog and Rosbif part of the Frog Pub movement:

FrogPubs began life as an MBA project researching the potential for an English pub & micro-brewery in central Paris. The project was a success & since 1993 FrogPubs has been brewing, serving & selling beer. We started out by creating pubs for all the British expats in Paris to meet up in. Today FrogPubs attracts a much wider variety of people and pretty much anyone who wants to have a good time will be well looked after.

We asked about a flight, but they did not have one however, they do offer a free taste of their 7 beers on a paddle, so we gave it a try.  We selected our favorite and order a pint and a cone of frietes.

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We were meeting the girls between 1300-1330 at Rim Café Restaurant Italien.  We order 4 different pizza, and two pastas, and everything was very good.  We’re always skeptical about eating in the Latin Quarter, but we were pleasantly surprised.

After lunch, about 1530, we when back to the apartment to relax and plan the next day which is to be a croissant crawl, visiting the 2013 best croissant bakers in Paris.

 

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Paris 2014, Day 7

Todays Cheese: Comté

Comte Cheese

Comté is a French cheese made from unpasteurized cow’s milk in the Franche-Comté region of eastern France. Comté has the highest production of all French AOC cheeses, around 40,000 tonnes annually.

About Comté: Comté is an ancient cheese. It has been produced since the time of Charlemagne. Comté is still traditionally made in more than 190 cheese dairies, known as the “fruitières” in the Jura plateau.

Comté making: Cheesemakers need about 530 liters of milk – the daily production of 30 cows – to make one Comté, weighing approximately 35 kilos (80 pounds). Morning and evening milks from Montbeliarde and Tachete de L’est cows are mixed. Comté requires a long maturing period called affinage. The cheese is regularly cleaned and rubbed with salted water. The eyes – holes – of the Comté are the result of a correct affinage and should be the size of a pea to a small cherry.

Tasting Comté: Comté has an ivory-colored paste scattered of holes the size of a hazelnut. Comté has a complex, nutty and caramelized flavor.

Tasting advice: As an appetizer, Comté is perfect cut into small cubes. Comté is a traditional fondue cheese. Comté can also be grated, chunked or melted.

Comté and wine: Dry white wines such as Sancerre, light red wine such as Beaujolais, Jura yellow wine

Tasters note: We prefer the more aged cheese of 24-mos to 36-mos where the cheese forms crystals, similar to cheddar.  this is one of my favorite cheeses to substitute in pizza for mozzarella.

a walking tour

a walking tour

Now for today’s activities! Up and out, but it’s an overall grey blustery day with rain forecast for later in afternoon. We had selected a walk from one of Alex’s books, an On Foot Guide called Paris Walks. It covers an area we have walked before but it is fun to view the known though someone else’s words. So we’re “Putting on the Ritz: Around the Grands Boulevards” beginning at Place de la Concorde. Up Rue Royale, laid out in the early 18th century. During the Belle Epoque, it became the height of fashion and remains so today with Christofle, Bernardoud, and, of course, the landmark restaurant Maxim’s. The house where Maxim’s is located was owned by Cardinal Richelieu, Louis XIII’s Chief Minister. Naturally, Rue Royale is home to famed LaDuree’s tea room and home of the macaron!

One of the decorated trees in Le Village Royale. The red shades on the tree are actually plastic pots. Mike thinks he could make this tree.....

One of the decorated trees in Le Village Royale. The red shades on the tree are actually plastic pots. Mike thinks he could make this tree…..

We cut over to an alleyway (wish Richmond’s alleys looked like this) called Le Village Royal, an uncovered passageway with an enclave of cafes and boutiques surrounded by immaculately maintained buildings. The passageway was still decorated for Christmas with lighted pre-formed trees covered with light shades! Very cute idea!

The entire passageway at Le Village Royale

The entire passageway at Le Village Royale

To get back to Place Madeleine, we cut through Galerie de Madeleine another gallery, this one covered, with Yves de Lorme stores but not much else. On the corner we found Lucas-Carton, the restaurant of Alain Senderens. Not much to see from the outside, but elegant curtains and a sort of deco-inspired exterior. In the center, dominating the square is the church of Ste-Marie Madeleine. Designed to look like a Roman temple with a Corinthian colonnade; at one stage, it was destined to be a bank, but was finally consecrated as a church in 1842. There’s a concert scheduled here on St-Valentin’s Day – the best way to experience the church.

Truffles for sale, just in the window in a basket

Truffles for sale, just in the window in a basket

Place Madeleine is home to the highly decorative art nouveau public conveniences installed by Porcher with tiles, satined glass, and polished mahogany. However, they were closed today, but we had seen them on a previous visit. We strolled through the flower market there – comparing prices of tulips to those near us. They were more expensive at Madeleine! The Place is home to Caviar Caspia, La Maison de Truffe, Hediard, and Fauchon. The spot for gourmets.

A lovely, huge, magnificent crystal chandelier in the window of the Baccarat store

A lovely, huge, magnificent crystal chandelier in the window of the Baccarat store

Jeanne d'Arc statue by Paul Dubois, great nephew of Pigalle

Jeanne d’Arc statue by Paul Dubois, great nephew of Pigalle

2nd Empire Church St Augustin

Church St Augustin

We left empty handed and headed up boulevard Malesherbes, past the wonderful chandeliers in the window at Baccarat, toward St Augustin, a Second Empire church. The vista up this street is very Parisian with opulent houses lining the boulevard.  Just in front of the church is a statue of Jeanne d’Arc by Paul Dubois.

LUNCH!!!!

LUNCH!!!!

We stopped for lunch nearby at Le Saint-Augustin Brasserie and Cafe. Omelets and salads for us both. After lunch we wandered toward Rue du Havre to catch a glimpse of Lycée Condorcet. The Lycée started out in 1780 as a Capuchin monastery designed by Brongniart (architect of the Bourse), was converted for a spell to a hospital, and is now a school. Many of Paris’ rich and famous studied here from Haussmann to Proust.

A former Capuchin monastery built in 1780 - this is now the upscale Lycée Condorcet

A former Capuchin monastery built in 1780 – this is now the upscale Lycée Condorcet

Off again to check out the interesting architecture of Paul, a Viennese bakery established in 1889 at 55 Boulevard Haussmann. We had just eaten lunch so we passed on a sandwich or a dessert.

On to square Louis XVI, a garden with lots of green. But its past is pretty grisly, this is actually the site of Madeleine cemetery where thousands of guillotine victims were buried. The remains of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were brought here after their executions. When Louis XVIII came to the throne, he had their remains removed to the Basilica of St Denis and commissioned the Chapelle Expiatoire here in their memory. It was closed, is only open Thursday through Saturday afternoons. The courtyard tombs are in memory of the Swiss guards killed in the Tuileries attack (1792).

La Maison du Miel

La Maison du Miel

Down rue Vignon we found La Maison du Meil with varieties of honey including thyme, lavender, and eucalyptus – to name a few.  During our walk, we found two new potential restaurants to try: an Italian one with fresh, house made pasta and a traditional French restaurant specializing in pot au feu. Stay tuned to see if we try them and report back.

We walked down to Place de la Concorde, caught the 52 bus toward Pte St-Cloud. We hadn’t taken this bus before, but at some point, it stops one half block from where we are renting. It takes a round about route: Rue du Faubourg, Rue de Miromesnil, Rue Boetie, Rue du Faubourg, Boulevard Friedland, to the Arc de Triomphe, to Avenue Victor Hugo, to Rue de la Pompe, to our bus stop. On the way, we get to peer in the windows of boutiques, shops, and get a feel for the neighborhoods we pass.

The kinds of things we love to see and be inspired by during our walks!

might never have combined these colors before - but wild orchid is Pantone's color for 2014

might never have combined these colors before – but wild orchid is Pantone’s color for 2014

dinner, maybe someday?

dinner, maybe someday?

Or maybe dinner here someday

Or maybe dinner here someday

Le Cercle National des Armees de Terre de Mer et de l'Air

Le Cercle National des Armees de Terre de Mer et de l’Air

And, of course, Au Printemps - but stay outside not to be tempted

And, of course, Au Printemps – but stay outside not to be tempted

After we rest up – moules and frites tonight! Were headed to Le bon Pêcheurs over by the old Les Halles Market/Mall, now be reinvented. Moules and frites were a great value, they still cut the frites in a v-shape so they get extra crispy on more of the surface. But, not much progress on Les Halles, we think they are being overly optimistic on their completion date!

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