February-March 2014 & Paris

Marché Couvert de Passy - Chhese boothThe planning has begun for our next trip, we have secured an apartment in the 16th arrondissement and made our train reservations from Germany to Paris, France.  I have registered for Space-A travel and we are watching the schedule closely. This time our plan is to introduce ourselves to the vendors in the Marché Couvert de Passy where we will shop daily with the exception of Monday when that are closed.  As part of our experience we will sample a different cheese every day and report on the flavor, and other characteristic here on tour blog.

The stalls:marche passy

  • Fruits et légumes : 4
  • Crèmerie : 2
  • Boucherie : 2
  • Volailles, rôtisserie : 1
  • Produits régionaux : 1
  • Horlogerie, bijouterie, cadeaux : 1
  • Fleurs : 1
  • Traiteurs : 2
  • Poissonneries : 3
  • Boulangerie, pâtisserie, confiseur, chocolat : 1
  • Produits ibériques : 1
  • Epicerie fine : 1
  • Articles ménagers : 1
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Headed Home – The Trip November 4, 2013

We were up at about 0230, earlier that the alarm clock which was set for 0300.  We stopped by the front desk at the Vogelweh Inn and asked Mr. Wilson to call us a Taxi to the Ramstein Passenger Terminal (AMC), we left our card key with him and said e would call later to advise whether of not to check us out.  The taxi arrived and we headed for AMC, I noticed that the taxi already had accrued 7.80 €s before we even left the Vogelweh complex, on of the downsides of having to stay there the total taxi ride back to AMC 28.20€s.

We arrived at the passenger terminal at about 0335 and a line had already formed outside because the terminal was not open, there was a light drizzle and it was dark and about 38-degrees.  We decided that if we did not get on the Flight we would stop by the rental car office and get a car, probably cheaper than two taxi rides and flexibility for where to go for dinner.  You only want to eat once at the Strike Zone in the bowling alley.

AMC opened the doors at about 0350 and we checked in with the documents desk, this is where they check your Space-A registration date, ours was 9/25, and that you have registered for travel from Ramstein and have a passport.  You are then given the yellow travel document which provides all of you pertinent travel information, which if there is no space on the flight you have to have stamped on you next try for availability.

There were 91 seats listed on the  Ramstein Passenger Terminal Facebook page posted at 0247 however when we arrived there were 103 Firm seats.  After check in we were in position #37 which as different Categories  (I-VI) check in you move up or down the list, we were at #54 when they stared Roll Call at 0500.

Our names were called at about 0600 and we completed the process, baggage check, seat assignments and BWI Airport fees of $27.70 per traveler, n our case $59.40.  Were were assigned seats 17G&H.  We carried our bags over to x-ray and bit farewell to them hoping to be reunited with thin in Baltimore.

We headed across the parking lot for some breakfast and coffee, the coffee shop in the KMC Center building opens at 0600, it was about 0625 and by now our stomaches thought that our throats had been cut.  We orders two ham, cheese and egg croissants and a cup of coffee and a bottle of water for Pat.

We ate our breakfast and headed back to the passenger terminal and got in the security line, which is run by the Germans, no TSA pat jobs here, but of course each of the two security people have there own system and quirks.  We clear security as the plane began to board at 0750.

The plane a United Charter, 747 with some age on it but still in good working order.  We had a bit of confusion finding our seat because they we on the second deck of the plane.  The seating was 1st class style with wide seats and plenty of leg room and you could almost lay flat and not affect the person behind you.  I figure this was call comfort averaging because coming over we were cramped in seas against the bulkhead.  We probably will not be so lucky in the future. 

Pat in the Co-Pilots seat

Pat in the Co-Pilots seat

While we were waiting for some last minute luggage and cargo the Captain came back and invited anyone who wanted to visit the cockpit and even take photos, I sent Pat forward and they took photo of her in the copilots seat and one with the Captain, her dad would have love these.

Presently we are in route back to Baltimore.  Of course we still need to clear immigration and customs upon landing.  Then the shuttle where we collect our car and pay the ransom to get it out of long-term parking.  We should arrive at about 1200 EST.  Morgan when to Pennsylvania with Celeste and the girls to visit Mark (Dad) so we have to make arrangement to pick her up either Wednesday or over the weekend.

Pat in the Cockpit of United Flight ULG60A with the Pilot

Pat in the Cockpit of United Flight ULG60A with the Pilot

Prologue – We ran into Nita Parry in the airport at BWI, her and husband Jack were waiting for Mondays flight with a final destination of Southern Italy, we chatted for a bit and then headed off to the Parking Lot – Car start and we are now in Richmond.

Medvezh’yegorsk Good to be back in the USA!

hesitantly Tie a yellow ribbon round the old oak tree!

All in all a good trip!

Mike & Pat

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Headed for Home and the Good old USA

We awoke this morning at the miniature IBIS about 0630 and finished our morning routines and then headed over to Gare L’Est for a 0906 train to Kiserslautern Germany.  We were booked in First Class after our poor second class accommodations from Basel to Paris.  Far more comfortable seats and more room for luggage, a meal/smack was included and the bathrooms were even a step up; but no larger.

We had had a cup of coffee and a croissant at the station so we were able to pick and choose what to eat.  The box included OJ, a roll, raspberry jam, butter, yogurt, a tortilla like egg patty with fresh ham.  We also receive an addition croissant and coffee.

The trip was very comfortable and we arrived at Kaiserslautern at 1138, 5-minutes late.  We probably got the only cab driver that had never been to the temporary house section at Vogelweh, and even with the address he was confused.  I call the Vogelweh inn and got direction but the drive still got lost, after stopping and asking diction while on the base we finally arrived at building 1002 and the from desk.  Everything when fine after that we have a large room with a sitting room and a full bath.  The facilities here are a bit older than at the Ramstein Inn but muck larger and comfortable.

Were going to walk over the the bowling ally where there is an American style pub for dinner and then turn in early.

Roll call is at 0500 and checkin begins at 0400 so it will be an early morning, we have to catch a cab from Vogelweh to the flight line.  We are keeping our room and will return if we do not get on the plane and try again on Tuesday.

We’re both looking forward to being home and sleeping in our own bed and planning our next trip.

 

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Wandering Paris on our last day

First step, after coffee was checking out of the apartment before 10 am. Luckily, last night’s rain had passed through and we headed for the #38 bus to go north toward Gare de l’Est, where we had a reservation for Saturday night at an Ibis within a block of the station. Of course, our room was not ready, so we checked our bags and headed over toward the Republique metro stop to check out a restaurant, Auberge Pyrénées Cévenne , son rue de la Folie Mericourt that Mike wanted to try tonight.

We strolled along the Canal St Martin.

Locks on the Canal St. Martin in the 10eme

Locks on the Canal St. Martin in the 10eme

Just as we reached Quai de Jemmapes, a tour boat started going through a set of double locks. We watched, even though we had done the same ourselves so many times. We strolled through Jardin Villemin, a relatively new park/playground that definitely needed a little bit of tender loving care.

From there we headed over to the Latin Quarter, strolled through the shops and restaurants, before passing the Cluny and the University of Paris before continuing on to the Blvd. St. Germain wit it’s upscale shops and restaurants. Near Mabillon metro stop, we found a

Curried Chicken at the La Ruhmeiie

Curried Chicken at the La Rhumerie

Carribbean-themed restaurant called La Rhumerie. The daily plate was a marinated chicken dish with rice. I decided to pass on the flight of 4 flavored rums, since it was only early afternoon. As we sat there, people-watching and eating our lunch, a rain storm blew through. It ended before we finished and continued on our trek along the boulevard.

Near Ste. Germain des Pres, the church, in the small square across from Les Deux Magots, now being renovated,

Les Duex Magots, Getting a much needed facelift, and hopefully new staff!

Les Duex Magots, Getting a much needed facelift, and hopefully new staff!

we found a band playing Dixie Jazz and selling their CD’s – only in Paris. This post keeps with our long standing tradition of always truing to include one music interest on each trip. We stopped and enjoyed the music before continuing on.

 

 

Along our route we window shopped at all the fabulous Italian-style, modern kitchens and baths.

We turned right on rue du Bac, checking out furniture shops along the way. The Grange shop is no longer carrying furniture – it is now devoted to kitchen design. But still across the street, is the AGA store, that carries those stoves made in England.

We caught the #69 bus transferring to #38 bus on our way back to the hotel to check whether our room was ready and we could check-in. We checked in and found ourselves in one of the

Duck Breast with Dauphine Potatoes

Duck Breast with Dauphine Potatoes

smallest rooms ever, welcome to IBIS Miniature a new series of hotel options. There is no place to even open our suitcases – and, they block the door. We are so glad we are here only one night.

UPDATE: Auberge Pyrénées Cévenne was closed! Probably decided to take along weekend because Friday, November 1, 2013 was a holiday in France (All Saints Day) so we foraged around for another restaurant and found an 80-year old Alsacian place name Chez Jenny, excellent, We will be adding to our restaurant list.

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Paris, one day and counting.

As luck would have it, the 19th Salon du Chocolat started on October 30 and lasts until Sunday. We headed to the exposition center at Porte de Versailles and even before 10 AM, the subways was jammed. We braced ourselves for a huge crowd at the chocolate event. We also noticed that the crowd was quite young, which puzzled us a bit – like not children but teenagers and young adults. When we arrived at the entrance, it became very clear. There were two other events going on simultaneously: the Autumn Faire and a computer gaming show. Our spirits lifted as we thought most of our companion subway riders were headed elsewhere. We purchased our tickets, headed to the Expo, and for a few minutes could walk from booth to booth without being hit with a backpack, jostled, run over by a stroller, or stepped on. The show covered two floors of pavilion 5. The 1er etage had booths for chocolate providers, chocolatiers, and pâtissiers. In addition, there were  providers of Madagascar vanilla, a provider of chocolate teas and beer, Grand Marnier, a book store, a pastry school, even Indonesia, Tokyo, and Ghana. It was billed as an international show, but the emphasis was clearly French. Just as we walked in, there was a

Airplane made from chocolate

Airplane made from chocolate

huge airplane made from chocolate – sponsored by Asianna air lines.  At 11:00, Mike went to the Choco Demo and watched Chef Laurent Duchene, meilleur ouvrier de France Pâtissiers, share his method and recipe for sucettes, the latest rage in Paris.

French lollypops or sucette

French lollypops or sucette

It was similar to a lollipop with a ganache center, various flavorings, and various coatings. By now the crowds were thickening, we had so many itty bitty tastes of chocolate that we were soon on a sugar high. The Rez-de-chaussee level was termed la Confiserie filled with candies, waffles, hot chocolate, spices and teas, cake decorating items, various kinds of nougat, dried fruit, marzipan, ice cream, sorbet, and even chocolate cognac! There was one cupcake vendor, but it did not even

Chocolate guitar

Chocolate guitar

interest the Parisians, who were all about those sucettes. Everyone was walking around with one! A cooking school, L’Atelier des Sens, was demonstrating and teaching volunteers how to sauté fois gras and make a chocolate balsamic vinegar sauce. I watched one young lady who had obviously never been in a kitchen. She was trying to stir the sauce and use her spatula on the fois gras like it was her eating utensils. Her chocolate burned, the instructor walked over and poured a good bit of red wine in to try to save it – or at least make it liquid and pourable. Today is a holiday in France,

Crayons made of chocolate, as well.

Crayons made of chocolate, as well.

many businesses were closed. Since it was raining most of the day, parents and grandparents packed up the family and went to the Salon du Chocolate. Naturally, on all that sugar, even the usually well-behaved French children got a little out of control.

Even a chocolate dress!

Even a chocolate dress!

After purchasing some vanilla beans and powdered vanilla beans, we headed across town to pick up some more colorant from G. Datou, for macarons when we get home.

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Paris – Thursday 10/31/2013

Since today is sunny and tomorrow may be rainy, we delayed the Salon du Chocolat 2013 until tomorrow. Why waste a beautiful day inside?

Sacre Coeur, built about the time of Sacred Heart in Richmond - what a difference

Sacre Coeur, built about the time of Sacred Heart in Richmond – what a difference

We headed up to Monmantre and Sacre Coeur to check out the view of Paris on a bright sunny day. Naturally, we strolled through the fabric and passementerie shops all along the hill. This is one of my favorite things: to get a preview of the colors and styles that eventually make their way to the US.

Mike, of course, had to check out the angel shoppe – still wanting to put angels on the ceiling of our living room..

Waiting for the car to come back down to head up the hill to Sacre Coeur

Waiting for the car to come back down to head up the hill to Sacre Coeur

We hopped the funiculaire to the top of the hill, wandered the squares where artists used to set up their easels, now taken over by the neighboring restaurants with the artists relegated to the perimeter. At the base of the funiculaire, the hat shop is still there and folks were trying on all kinds of hats.

On the steps of Sacre Coeur, we found a harpist – along with the mimes. We decided to head over to Notre Dame to check out the stained glass with the sun shining through. But, first lunch!

This harpist had taken his place on the steps just below Sacre Coeur

This harpist had taken his place on the steps just below Sacre Coeur

We found a deli in the Marais, on rue Rossiers, had a pastrami sandwich which we ate standing in the sun. Actually, the sandwiches were too big and we could have shared. The other half went into the trash.

Just around the corner, we stopped for a glass of Rose and to people-watch, our favorite Parisian pastime. We stopped by an eclair shop and picked up eclairs for dinner dessert at l’Eclair de Genie (Christophe Adam).

By now, clouds had started to form and we decided Notre Dame was a no-go. So we headed back to apartment to drop off our purchases. We then decided to determine if we can take the bus Saturday morning with our luggage to get to our hotel at Gare de L’Este since we have to leave apartment Saturday morning. Walk several blocks is do-able, and hotel is just one block from train station and one block from bus stop.

Back to apartment to meet up with Carol and Shoe and make dinner plans. But, first, it’s two for one drinks until seven at Bianco over on rue Montorgueil. Then it’s fresh fish, salad, and a baguette from Collette’s for dinner! Don’t forget the Eclairs!

Eclairs from L'Eclair De Genie by Christophe Adam, an investment in our stomach!

Eclairs from L’Eclair De Genie by Christophe Adam, an investment in our stomach!

Tomorrow is another day!

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Wednesday in Paris: Dinner at Hugo’s

Sunny skies today and we took off from our apartment in the Marais heading for the Champs de Mars. We hoped to take the #69 bus from Champs de Mars to Pere LaChaise Cemetiere.  On our way to Champs de Mars, we grabbed a baguette sandwich and shared it on a bench in Champs de Mars, watching children play and enjoying the sun.

Eiffel Tower against a blue, blue sky

Eiffel Tower against a blue, blue sky

I was wearing the scarf Carol made for me, two women walked by and said “Lovely scarf, dear, did you make it?” No, I said my friend made it for me. One responded that it matched my coat and quite set off my hair, then she asked where I was from. A 10 minute conversation then ensued, one was from Missouri, the other from Canada and Maine. As she left, I remember thinking: “Canada and Maine?  I would chose like Canada and someplace warm!”

Me and my scarf on the Champs de Mars

Me and my scarf on the Champs de Mars

After enjoying our chicken sandwich and watching a vendor set up and market a temporary track for peddle cars for children, we wandered over to the bus stop.  We waited quite a while, then a kindly man explained the 69 was not running today and where were we going. I thanked him and we decided to take the #42 bus across the river, down the Champs Elysee and get off at Concorde.

 

Mike wearing his shades to prove the sun is shining

Mike wearing his shades to prove the sun is shining

From there, we headed to Ile St Louis to find the bridge in the painting over our fireplace in the dining room. We were correct it is the Pont Marie and took a photo. Then we walked Ile St Louis, window shopping and watching the tourists. We headed over to the Pont de Archeveche, in the shadow of Notre Dame to check on our lock. To those of you, who kept up with our last trip to Paris, you know that on our anniversary, we placed on lock on the bridge and dropped our keys into the Seine. Wow! This year we were blown away! There are probably millions of locks now, some have been graffiti-ed and are unreadable, but the fence is so jam-packed that we could not find our own lock!

Fountain at Place Concorde

Fountain at Place Concorde

We did see a bride and groom, in full wedding attire come to the bridge to place their lock – along with their photographer. They had her all set up, dress and train swirled just so, taking photos and an oblivious Frenchman walked through the scene with his dog! I sneaked a photo and as we walked away, we saw another couple approach the bridge in their wedding attire. So, the secret is out – placing a lock at the bridge is now part of a wedding package – and the locks overwhelm the bridge.  There is now a lock salesman, on the QT of course with a satchel of locks and a permanent marker, selling locks to couples on the bridge! Entrepreneur at work!

Bride and Groom Photo Session at the Locks of Love bridge

Bride and Groom Photo Session at the Locks of Love bridge

We made our way back to the apartment, getting there about 4:30 and propping our feet up before we head over to La Cordonnerie for dinner!

 

Pont Marie, the bridge in our painting

Pont Marie, the bridge in our painting

 

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Paris

The day began with 10 MPH winds out of the SWS, probably left over from the hurricane that hit the UK.  A quick walk down the street to the boulangerie for the morning pastry started the day.

We departed the apartment in different directions, Shoe and Carol were off to the seed store, shoe store and Museums. Pat and I were headed to Guerlain

The little black dress

The little black dress

for a resupply of perfume (La Petite Robe Noir). With that task completed, we headed to the 16th arrondissement to the neighborhood know as Passy.  The 16th, not quite at elite as the 7th, and the 17th are upmarket residential with large apartments and wide avenues.

Typical 16th Arrondissement building

Typical 16th Arrondissement building

We decide to visit because it was chroniclized in a book here in the apartment called “A Family in Paris” by Jane Paech, about a couple moving to Paris.  After the visit we are targeting the area for our next rental in January/February 2014.

The Fish stall

The Fish stall

We walked the center of life in the quarter, rue de Passy, and visited the local permanent market, with it’s two fish stands, several cheese mongers and a good looking butcher stall.

The butcher stall

The butcher stall

We then headed down rue de l’Annonciation where all of the food shops are located to check them our as well.

Vegetables

Vegetables

During our walk we passed the Desgranges bakery, where the local artisinal breads are made on rue de Passy.  There is a there star restaurant here which may be worth a try if we can get a reservation on a future visit the name is L’Astrance, and the chef Pascal Barbot (not to do further research).

After exploring a bit more we decide to head over to the Marais for lunch at L’ AS du Fallafel for lunch, we never miss having falafels at least once while here.

After inch we had some shopping to do and a bit of window shopping and then headed back to the apartment to rest our feet.

A rotisserie chicken was on the menu for the evening so we walked over to rue Montegueil and reserved a chicken from the butcher for 7 PM and sat at Bianco and had drinks (2 for 1) until seven, collected our chicken and headed back to the apartment to prepared the rest of dinner of sautéed potatoes, haricots verts and of course the chicken.

Dinner of chicken, green beans and sautéed potatoes with onions.

Dinner of chicken, green beans and sautéed potatoes with onions.

Pat and I had grabbed a poppyseed baguette from Masion Collet earlier to accompany dinner.

Mike and Shoe preparing dinner

Mike and Shoe preparing dinner

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Paris

First stop this morning, after the boulangerie – of course, was the Metro station to get Shoe and Carol’s weekly pass. Things are somewhat different, you no longer get an orange card, you have to have a passport photo and you have to buy a NAVIGO pass. Carol brought a photo, Shoe had to go into a Fotomat in the station and get his photo taken. After the administrative procedures of cutting the photos to fit, assembling the NAVIGO, and processing payment, we were finally on our way to take care of another errand.

Next stop the train station to purchase our tickets for Germany on Sunday! Mike tried to purchase them on-line, but the only option was to USMail them to our home in Virginia. We knew that wouldn’t work. We found the ticket office for the Trains Grande Ligne and took a number to wait our turn. Finally our number was called and we approached the counter. I had been rehearsing what to say in French over and over in my mind and the woman behind the desk was very tolerant and let me continue in French, even though she spoke English. Turns out tickets were cheaper in the station than buying them on-line! Who knew!

Tickets in hand, we went back to the Metro to head to the Latin Quarter for a cup of hot chocolate, at Cafe du Notre Dame, in the sun across from Notre Dame, which is celebrating its 850th anniversary. Next up a little shoe shopping at the Clark’s store. No bargains or necessities on display so we left empty-handed.

Next on our schedule Mike’s assorted food and kitchen supply stores around Les Halles. Of course, it was now one pm and they were closed for lunch. We stopped for lunch at Le Grille Montogueril. Then we visited MORA, E. DEHILLERIN, G. Detoux, and La Bovida. We saved A. Simon for another day. We strolled up rue Montorgueil looking for a roast chicken for dinner, but decided on fresh pasta instead!

Ravioli from the fresh pasta store with tomato and bocconcini

Ravioli from the fresh pasta store with tomato and bocconcini

 

Sitting around the table after dinner

Sitting around the table after dinner

 

 

 

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Sunday in Paris October 27 2013

The morning was dark, gloomy, and raining pretty hard. Mike headed out to the small bakery down the street and brought back croissants for breakfast.

Our rolling shopping cart, perfect for shopping for groceries in Paris

Our rolling shopping cart, perfect for shopping for groceries in Paris

We had a few errands to run, so off we went to the grocery store with our parapluies and our apartment’s rolling shopping cart, our first stop. We all decided that the Franprix close to us is much less desirable than the G20 located just across the street. We picked up a few essentials, hoping to get a roast chicken for dinner. Mike volunteered to take our purchases back to the apartment.

Next stop was the Rambateau Metro station where we renewed our NAVIGO passes for next week, beginning Monday. We were unable to get weekly passes for Carol and Shoe until Monday, even though I negotiated in my best French. By now the sun had come out, so we strolled down rue de Rivoli toward the WH Smith bookstore. However, the store didn’t open until 12:30. So we crossed rue de Rivoli to Tuileries to sit in the sun under bright blue skies.

The Eiffel Tower from the Tuilleries! Notice the bright blue skies!

The Eiffel Tower from the Tuilleries! Notice the bright blue skies!

Around 1, we crossed back over to WH Smith, but it had not opened. We walked up to Place Madeleine to have lunch and pick up some macarons from LaDuree. Then back to WH Smith, which had now opened so Shoe and Carol could pick up a map of Paris, but, alas, Shoe was unable to find interesting reading material.

Mike's lunch!

Mike’s lunch!

Carol and Shoe headed over to the flower market on Ile de Cite, while Mike and I tried to find a roast chicken. But, by now, they were all gone! At Place Vendome, we passed a photography session of a wedding party. The bride’s gown was over the top and so was her make-up! Each of the bridesmaids’ gowns was different and elegant – it actually made me wonder if it was a magazine photo shoot not a weeding.  However, I was too self-conscious to take photos. So we headed back to the apartment and would meet up with our traveling buddies at Pere Tranquille! However, before our planned meeting time, they showed up at the apartment. Turns out – the plant/seed shop was closed today.

After a respite at the apartment and at an appropriate time for dinner in Paris, we headed out for moles and frites, after all, as you are very aware, we travel on our stomachs! Mapping our routes on GoogleMaps, we figure we clocked about 5 1/2 miles today!

Moules at Le Bon Pecheur

Moules at Le Bon Pecheur

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