Paris 2019 – Day 8

Late start this morning do to the rain.  We decided to visit all of the street Food Markets in Paris (Mike & Pat’s Food Market Adventures), not all in one day and maybe not all on this trip but that is our next goal and everyone needs goals.  There are actually 78 of them and we may have already visited maybe up to ⅓ of them but we will have to go through the list and see.

Marché Auteuil
Place Jean Lorrain 16th arrondissement

Today we headed to the Marché Auteuil,  at Place Jean Lorrain .  This street market is on a triangle at an intersection and is actually organized in three separate row of stalls with tight aisles which work well in the morning rain.

Marché Auteuil
Place Jean Lorrain 16th arrondissement

Mike outside the Apple store.

Following the market we jumped on the 52 bus to Opera for our traditional visit to the Paris Apple store.  We always check in and I wanted to show Pat the difference between the new iPad and the smaller iPad Pro because it time for an upgrade and she wants one smaller than her iPad Pro so we compared the iPad Pro 10.5″ and the

Pat by the door of the Apple store in Paris

iPad 9.5″.  Of course we will wait until we get home to make the purchase but I believe she wants the 9.5″.

Pat was impressed by all of the [leated shirts coming back.

While we were in the area Pat wanted to go over to Galleries Lafayette so Pat could check out the latest fashions and some home furnishings. When we were done with our window shopping we crossed the street to the Galleries Market and Home Store so Pat could browse the china, etc.  While there we decided to get some fresh pasta, sauce and parmesan cheese to make for tonights dinner.  There is a pasta place by the apartment but the selections of ravioli were inviting.

Steps = 8,769 or 4 miles (-444 calories)

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 7

Place Octave Chanute (19th)

As promised, we’re off to visit the remaining 2 streets of the 5 secret streets of Paris La Campagne À Paris (Place Octave Chanute) and La Mouzaïa (Rue de Mouzïa). We began our voyage on the metro and finished a pied to Place Octave Chanute in the 19th arrondissement. The group of streets known as la campagne à Paris is a block  of buildings located on a hill to the east of Paris. The roads are lined with small red brick houses with rose bushes on the façades. Unfortunately, no roses blooming this time of year. They originally were intended as low-income housing given that they were built on the land of an old quarry. Took the staircase to rue Irenée Blanc and explore this idyllic pastoral neighbourhood.

We left this beautiful neighborhood of winding streets and headed for Rue de Mouzïa.  This was a bit tricker because unlike the others we did not have a particular street to which to navigate.  We opted to take the Tram which is similar to a metro except it runs above ground more like an old fashion trolly car.  We departed the tram and with a little help from the internet we found information about Rue de Mouzïa “WALK IN LA MOUZAÏA (OR “QUARTIER D’AMÉRIQUE”)”. We eventually found a starting point and strolled up Rue de Mouzïa looking up the side streets enjoying the quiet of the area. This green enclave near Parc des Buttes Chaumont is like a little island with its tiny houses, flower gardens and steep cobbled streets where it’s fun to get lost. Originally this was cheap housing, for working-class people, but nowadays more affluent Parisians live here, in this tiny village in the centre of Paris.

Mike Croque Monsieur with frites

Pat’s salad of the season with roasted pears, Jambon, and warm goat cheese

On our way back to the apartment we stopped for a late lunch in the 1st at one of our favorite cafes by the church L’église Saint-Eustache, La Pointe Saint-Eustache at 1 rue Montorgueil.

Here in an interesting bit of trivia, while writing this post I noticed that the 19th arrondissement was the only one we had not spent any time in. This now means that we have explored or pursued an adventure in all 20 of Paris’s arrondissements.  This is not to say we have run out of things to do and see because there are plenty more but I think this is a big achievement.

Steps today = 15,544 or 7.1 miles (-788 calories)

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Paris 2019 – Day 6

Grapefruit, Oranges and Strawberries

Croissant

Bagette and croissants from La Pompadour

Le Beurre Bordier

Off today after a breakfast of coffee, fruit, croissants and baguette.  Only about 500 feet from the apartment it started to hail, about the size of pepper corns, this was a first for un in Paris. We walked down to Passy

to cash a check but found Crédit Agricole bank was closed as are most banks on Monday. We popped into the La Grand Epicerie because I wanted to try some Le Beurre Bordier from Bordier. Add another experience to my list: self-checkout at La Grand Epicerie, a bit different than in the US but  I managed to complete the transaction with a bit of assistance from the clerk, the scanner was wall mounted; who knew? Pat was looking at a book in the apartment titled The 500 Secrets of Paris and noticed that there was a listing of the 5 most secret streets in Paris so, because we had already visited Rue Crémieux, we decided to go visit the other 4 streets.  We found two today and will find the other two tomorrow or another day. Today we visited Square de Montsouris and Rue des Thermopyles. We chose these two because they were fairly close together and the other two are further a field east of Paris.

Onion soup at Au bouquet d’alesia

Coquilles Saint Jacques (Scallops)

Chou de Bruxelles  (Brussel sprouts) and Courgette Blanche (white zucchini squash)

After finishing our visit to the Square de Montsouris we stopped for a light lunch at a cafe Au bouquet d’alesia for a bowl of onion soup and a glass of cote du Rhône wine.

On our way home we stopped at the poissonnerie and purchased some Coquilles Saint Jacques (Scallops) and then at the Les Primeurs for Chou de Bruxelles  (Brussel sprouts) and Courgette Blanche (white zucchini squash).

Steps = 16,103 or 7.4 miles (-816 calories)

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Paris 2019 – Day 5

Sunday morning. Off to the boulangerie for bread for breakfast. La Pompadour is closed on Sunday and I used to have to walk to Maison Kuntz on Sunday; however now the Paul has opened up across the street I get to save a few steps. They all close at 1:00 pm so don’t delay. As we travel around, we found that there are many small markets open and even a Fran Prix around the corner.

We took the 52 bus in the direction of the Pte. St Cloud to a brocante/vide grenier market we had seen advertised on the street on Wednesday.  After touring the market we headed hope and stopped by the G20 Supermarket to buy some laundry detergent because a week goes quickly and we need to be prepared.

It’s a bit overcast today mild temperature of 50-degrees but the wind is blowing at 25 MPH out of the west making it feel a bit colder than 50.  We decided to go back to the apartment and hang out, work on the blog and other trivial stuff.

Pat snapped some phots along the street and at the market.

Pat snapped a photo of Occupy Wall Street Paris Style.

Occupy Wall Street French Style

Dinner tonight will be wine, cheese and bread and other snacks.  We have a lot to eat last night and Pat determined not to gain weight and our step count is down for the day.

Steps = 4,545 or 2.1 miles (-230 calories)

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 4

This morning we went to the market on President Wilson Boulevard and enjoyed seeing a wide array of products and foods.

The new railing for the Pont

 

Locks of Love attached to a light post on the Pont de l’Archevêché

After a light breakfast/lunch we took the bus over to the Opera area, this was a big mistake, which turned out to be an adventure. It seems that the yellow vests were somewhere in the area and the City stopped the bus and took it out of service.  Stranded we headed for the closest metro station and continued our journey.  The opera area was mobbed so we headed down to the river and decided to check out the replacement railings on the Pont de l’Archevêché from the island where Notre Dame is located to the Left Bank. However don’t sell the lovers short where there is a will there is a way.

[Norte: Update on gilets jaunes (yellow vests) The march, which began at the Arc de Triomphe, at the top of the famed avenue, looped through both sides of the Seine River before ending at the top of Luxembourg Gardens on the Left Bank.]

Norte Dame Cathedral

 

Where there is not a  relation between the line on the cathedral floor and the movie the Da Vinci Code or so the sign inside says!

While walking around Pat snapped some photos along La Seine and one of Saint Sulpice which has become a well known location due to the movie the Da Vinci Code.

Again the bus stopped for no apparent reason without explanation so we navigated the metro back to the apartment not the most direct route but we made it back to pick up wine at Nicolas. 

For dinner we selected a local Italian restaurant (Le Crio Bistro Italian) for pizza and salads.  Pat had a house salad of arugula, tomatoes, dried tomatoes and parmesan cheeses, I opened to get the antipasto Ciro which was outstanding a bed of arugula with a mozzarella drizzled with a basil olive oil the size of a tennis ball, dried tomatoes, roasted egg plant, shaved fennel, a generous portion of Prosciutto, and fresh steamed artichoke hearts. The pizza, we ordered the Bufala e Parma, Tomate, tomates cerise, mozzarella di Bufala et jambon de Parme was a bit of a disappointment. It was  like the mozzarella and ham were added as an after thought so we will not be adding Ciro to our recommendation list unless you’re in the market for a lunch of salads. The bistro did get good reviews so it may have beens mixup in the kitchen.

Steps today = 16,206 or 7.4 miles (-821 calories)

 

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Paris 2019 – Day 3

First stop this morning La Pompadour for croissant and a pain au chocolate.  Then back to the apartment for breakfast.

About 10:00 we when for our morning walk we walked southwest towards the Jardins Ranelagh, about a 10 minute walk and a ½ of a mile.  We passed a flower shop we had seen on previous trips with a great outside decoration and 2 very cool fake like oak trees with lights and the bakery we frequent on Sundays when La Pompadour is closed.

Janey Waney by Alexander Calder 1969

We walked around the park for a while watched the ground keepers setting up a sprinkler, curious because it has pretty much rained a bit every day for the.past couple of weeks in Paris, go figure? We then headed back to the apartment to get Pat’s Navigo Pass (Metro) from her other coat.We walked down to Ave Henri Martin to catch the 63 bus and head down to the river for a walk to the Tuileries Garden, about a 1 hour walk from the Alma Marceau bus stop by the George V bridge. We entered the park and grabbed a couple of chairs about mid way in and enjoyed the sun and the people watching.  We were right by a piece of art by Alexander Calder (Janey Waney) an American sculptor who is best known for his innovative mobiles (kinetic sculptures powered by motors or air currents) that embrace change in their aesthetic and his monumental public sculptures.

Street sign in 2019

In route to the park we ran across the newest craze for “Locks of Love” attaching them to signs, during our  prior visits we noticed the locks starting to appear on basement window grates. You will recall back in 2012 we attached our lock to the original location at Pont de l’Archevêché. In 2015 we saw an article appear about the French

February 18, 2012

Bridge in 2015

Government removing the bridge sections due to damage from the excess weight. The article can be found here.

We took the metro back to the apartment and had a lunch of salad with leftover rotisserie chicken.

Chef Hugo Wolfer

The evening opened with a metro ride to La Cordonnerie for dinner, we had reservations at 8 PM for our usual table in the kitchen. We spent some time catching up with Hugo while he prepared dinners for other guests.

Yellow Cod with Creamy celery and scallop potatoes

Foie Gras with a cream balsamic sauce

Lamb stew with mastered potatoes and steamed zucchini

We started by sharing the special appetizer of Foie Gras in a balsamic cream sauce, this sauce was exceptional. We had all good intensions of having Steak and
Frites, but almost always we opt for the “specials.” Pat selected the Yellow Cod steamed with grainy mustard, celery in a light cream sauce and scalloped potatoes  and for me the lamb stew.  The lamb breast was trimmed nicely and stews to tender and then was cooked in a demi-glase that was the highlight of the dish.   I wanted to lick the plate, fortunately there was plenty of crusty bread to absorb the remaining sauce. This was all washed down with a carafe of Gamay** wine.  For dessert we shared Hugo’s chocolate fondant, a dish created by his father when he ran the restaurant, its basically a slice of chocolate mousse on a bed of sponge cake which Hugo places in the oven briefly and the surface melts creating it own sauce and the decorated with a drizzle of dark bitter chocolate.  We departed the restaurant at about 10:30 PM.  We have reservation for the next 3 Friday nights so we may have another shot at steak frites.

Today’s steps = 15,583 or 7.1 miles

** Gamay is a Burgundy grape that has existed since the 14th century. For fear of competition with the pinot noir of Burgundy, gamay is finally ripped and planted in Beaujolais , from Mâcon to Lyon. These siliceous and granitic soils suit him perfectly, and here he gives the best of himself . But it is also planted everywhere in France like in Lorraine, in the Valley of the Loire, in Bugey, in Savoy, in Auvergne.It is a black grape with white juice and bunches and juicy berries of medium size. Gamay is early and very produ ctive and needs to be limited in order for quality to outweigh the quantity . The short size of the vines in winter and the high density of vines per hectare are the methods that allow it to produce very fruity, fresh and greedy red wines . Also very noticed in red wine primeur , gamay gives wines of the vintage of the Beaujolais with the characters and the potential of guard quite interesting.

AOC Cremant-de-Burgundy , Mâcon , Anjou , Touraine , Rosé Loire , Côtes-d’Auvergne , Saint-Pourçain , Bugey , Gaillac , Côtes du Luberon 
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Paris 2019 – Day 2

Our first full day in Paris began a bit late.  We woke to the bright sun light streaming in through the second floor windows.  It was late, some time around 0930, so I think we may have adjusted to Paris time with the help of ambien and Tylenol PM and some wine.  We made coffee and enjoyed some of the bread from yesterday and I made and egg for Pat.

We showered and dressed and headed out.

Our plan was to explore around the neighborhood see what changed, and what was added. The bistro on the corner of Rue de la Pompe was closed but only for renovation, we looked in through the open door and noticed a total gut job, don’t think we will be enjoying a glass of wine on the street at this place this trip.  Paul, a huge bakery chain also opened up on the opposite corner in what  I believe was a household store previously.  While the bread at Paul is very good and they offer some interesting whole grain breads we will mostly visit the La Pampadour. While on our walk we came across a very interesting bakery, “Aux Merveilleux, by Fred” by a baker we have never heard of, not that we know them all but we have heard of the most noteworthy one in Paris. The bakers name is Frederic Vancampe, and it a very interesting story and his creation including the Merveilleux.

Merveilleux

Merveilleux

 

 

 

Pat snapped some photos along the route of some of her favorite architectural styles:

Including a photo she sent to Martin and Paula hoping they would purchase the apartment for sale.

Buy me, Buy me!

 

Seems like the shopping choices in the area have increased with more choices for produce, fish and meats, let’s not forget wine but its hard to forgo Nicolas for good wine at great prices. We walked up to Rue Passey and got there about 12:55 just as the Passy Market was closing, we made a quick round of one of our favorite indoor markets and the headed back to the apartment.

After about a 3 mile walk we returned to the apartment for a nature break and then off on an adventure.  We took the metro (9) to the RER (A) to Gare Lyon.  Exited Gare Lyon and walk up to a very cute street name Rue Crémieux which has been popularized by social media, and not in a good way.  It seems that it has turned into a nightmare for the residents. See the attached article. The street has petitioned the City to install gate for residents only it has become such a problem.

Rue Crémieux

Rue Crémieux

Rue Crémieux

We decided to take the bus back and jumped on the 63 all the way back to the apartment.

For dinner we selected a…………wait for it………rotisserie chicken, Pat’s favorite along with the potatoes roasted in the bottom and some haricot verts from the market.

Tomorrow’s adventure, who knows, however we have dinner reservations at 2000 hours at Hugo’s restaurant La Cordonnerie.

Today’s steps = 9,937 or 4.6 miles

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Paris in 2019

It’s been 5 years since we have been to Paris, time moves fast and with all of the changes in our life we have not had time to get back to the City of Light.

Monday night we had a bit of difficulty checking in and were never able to complete the process, it appears that United was having some difficulty with their data scanning and was giving me error message.  However when we entered our passport in the scanner at Dallas everything when fine.

We are here now, we arrived at about 6:20 Paris time.  The sun was not even up as we taxied to the terminal at Charles de Gaulle Airport outside of Paris.  We cleared immigration, retrieved our bags and headed for the RER station to charge our metro passes for the month, only to find out that they had expired in 2017.  We were initially told that they would expire in 5 years but the never happened and were were not here on the 10th cut the photo from the anniversary.  In any case we were prepared with new photos, but they were not required the lady in the glass enclosure took everything in stride, filled out the new card, cut out the photo from the old card, placed it in the new, charged the new card an were were ready to go in a matter of minutes.  We jumped on the RER B and took it to St-Michel N-Dame where we transferred to the RER C and got off at Avenue Henri Martin and was the one short block to the apartment, entered the code walked through the gate and Wilson and who was awaiting our arrival.  Alex had Wilson pick up some bread from Pauls and 4 Cheeses, fruit and a bottle of wine.  We got the key from Wilson and he was on his way, probably one of his easiest checkins.

We unpacked and headed out to the grocery store via the 52 bus for coffee, half-half or Demi-Cream as this is called in France.  When we checked our of the Carrefour using out credit card they asked to see my passport which was secure in the apartment, a drivers license worked, just something new to annoy tourists.  Back on the 52 bus to the apartment.

So far the weather has been overcast a a bit dreary but I’m sure we will get a few nice days in the coming weeks.

Plans for the remainder of the day; hang out at apartment, make a farmers salad for dinner and take a sleeping pill and get on French time.

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Planning Begins

It not even 2019 yet but we have both our apartment reservation and airfare reservation for our trip to Paris in March.  We have opted to forego Space-A this trip due to a fair amount of accrued travel miles resulting from the renovation of the cottage  Presently our plans are to spend 27 days visiting old haunts, friends and acquaintances in the City of Lights.

We have invited our sister-in-law to join us for a week and we may take a two-day trip to Riquewihr to visit the fountain where I dispersed some of my brothers ashes.  As many of you know my ancestor are from Alsace Lorraine.

Keep watching for updates as we flesh out our plans and itinerary.

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3 Village Squares in Paris

Yeah, sure, okay. We get it, starting from now, you’re all going hunting for a spot in the outdoors. So we couldn’t possibly just give you one sunny square to relax in, you need at least 3. These city squares are picturesque, cheerful and super sun-drenched.

The most charming It may not be the prettiest one, but it’s definitely the most lively. Admire its church, its old-school drinking fountain and its passers-by. Get close to Ménilmontant, go up Rue Etienne Dolet and settle yourself on the terrace of L’Emir before ordering shisha with mint tea. It’s tanning time.
Place Maurice Chevalier, 20th arrondissement. Metro stop: Ménilmontant. Another terrace: La Pétanque Bar.

The one for early birds This one is best in the morning, preferably with a croissant in hand. Of course, it’s already well-known, but have you ever thought about having breakfast in the sun at Le Bar du Caveau?
Place Dauphine, 1st arrondissement. Metro stop: Cité. Another terrace: La Rose de France.

The most ‘Provençal’ “Keep your eyes open, this one tends to play hide-and-seek,” said the nice little florist who showed us the way here. And he was right to warn us: turns out Place Sainte Marthe is as lively as it is hidden. Take a seat at nearby bar La Sardine and make sure you choose the blue table (hint: it enjoys a permanent ray of sunshine.)
Place Sainte Marthe, 10th arrondissement. Metro stop: Belleville. Other terraces: Le Sainte-Marthe, Le Galopin.

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