French by Choice – Our Travels | The story of our travels through Paris, Europe & other parts of the World

DAY 13 February 07, 2023

Posted on February 7, 2023 by admin

http://prepaid365awards.co.uk/date/2014/12/24/ DAY 13 February 07, 2023

Lake Nassar

We made a quick stop to view the High Dam, built to control the flood waters of the Nile and generate electricity. This 13,000-foot-long and 3,200-foot-wide wall was built across the Nile between 1960 and 1970 with Soviet support. There is a visitors pavilion detailing its construction and at the western end there is a lotus shaped tower built to commemorate the Soviet Union’s support. It supplanted the British-built Low Dam of the 1900s and created the vast reservoir known today as Lake Nasser. Atop the High Dam ramparts, we viewed first-hand the complex structure and had a view of Lake Nasser one direction and on the other side the Nile. The lower dam was built to regulate the flow of the Nile and increase Egypt’s cultivable land and to provide hydroelectric power. It soon proved too small to control the rivers unpredictable floods. President Nasser’s solution was to construct the High Dam and create Lake Nasser. The resultant increase in in agricultural production and hydroelectricity have saved Egypt from famine but there have been environmental consequences: The rising water table is destroying ancient monuments and silt previously deposited in the Delta is now retained in Lake Nasser forcing Egypt’s farmers to rely heavily on chemicals.

During construction, the engineers devised a screening system to prevent the crocodiles from retreating back into the Nile from Lake Nasser. So the only crocodiles now are in Lake Nasser.

We viewed vastness of the impact of Egypt’s ancient dynasties as we flew 175 miles south from Aswan to visit the great twin temples of Abu Simbel. Along with the Temple of Isis at

Abu Simbel

Philae, they are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site known collectively as the Nubian Monuments. Here, imposing 70-foot statues of Ramses II and Queen Nefertari overlook the Nile. Originally carved out of the mountainside in the 13th century BC to commemorate Ramses II’s victory against the Hittites at the Battle of Kadesh, the huge rock relief figures at their entrances have become famous icons, and the sight of them is well worth the extra flight.

What makes them even more interesting, however, is that these enormous temples were not always found here. Between 1964 and 1968, a famous rescue mission — overseen by UNESCO — was undertaken to save them from the waters’ rise behind the Aswan High Dam. In an epic feat of engineering, the entire complex was carefully cut into large blocks, dismantled, lifted and reassembled in a new location – an artificial cliff almost 700 feet back from and 213 feet above their original position.

Buried in sand for centuries, the facade was discovered in 1813 by Swiss explorer Jean-Louis Burckhardt. The Ramses II Colossi are accompanied by carved images of captives from the north and south. The four colossi on the temple facade boast of a unified Egypt. Ramses names adorn the thrones in cartouche form. The broken colossi lost its head in an earthquake in 27 BC. Above the colossi, baboons greet the rising sun. The facade was intended to impress and frighten, while the interior revealed the union of god and king. Inside the Hypostyle Hall, the colossi in Osiride form (carrying crook and flail) on the southern pillars wear the upper Egypt crown while the northern ones wear the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. There was also a 33 foot high statue of Ramses as Osiris. Storerooms off to the side were to hold offerings to the gods and ritual items. In the inner sanctuary, Ramses II sits with Amun-Ra of Thebes, Ptah of Memphis, and Ra-Harakhty of Heliopolis. On two days of the year, the sun’s rays reach the once gold-covered faces of the statues.

Check out the flip hairdo!

A smaller temple adjacent is dedicated to his wife, Nefertari, and the cow headed goddess, Hathor, goddess of beauty and joy.

After marveling at the architectural ingenuity of both the past and present, we flew back to Aswan in time to enjoy lunch in the late afternoon (3:30 PM) on board the ship.

An optional trip to the the Old Cataract Hotel to view the suite Agatha Christie stayed in as she wrote portions of “Death of the Nile” was offered. The admission included a voucher to use to purchase a drink in the bar/lounge. Mustafa, one of the managers on board, formerly worked at the hotel and was leading the tour with tales of his experiences there. It is currently under management by Sofitel as one of its Legend hotels. It is an historic British-era Colonial 5-star luxury hotel built and developed by Thomas Cook to house European travelers to the area.

After dinner, we were treated to a Nubian Show in the Lounge/Bar.

Posted in Aswan | Tagged Hittites at the Battle of Kadesh, Ramses II and Queen Nefertari, Temple of Isis at Philae | Leave a comment

DAY 12 February 06, 2023 – On the Nile River. Egypt

Posted on February 7, 2023 by admin

Today we continued cruising up the Nile, arriving late morning at the Temple of Kom Ombo, situated on a small hillside right beside the river, just past fields of sugar cane and corn. After lunch, we went ashore to explore Kom Ombo, a small agricultural town that is home to many Nubians displaced by the creation of Lake Nasser. We explored the ruined yet imposing Greco-Roman temple’s unique “double” design, with symmetrical halves dedicated to two different gods who were brothers. It has two entrances, two halls, and two sanctuaries. Maget told us the story of the two brothers who became estranged and were brought back together in unity and ultimately represented Lower Egypt and Upper Egypt.

The southern half of the temple is dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek, god of fertility and protector against the dangers of the Nile, while the northern part of the temple is dedicated to the falcon god Haroeris, or “Horus the Elder,” patron god of the pharaohs. Construction was begun by Ptolemy VI in the 2nd century BC and mostly completed by Ptolemy XII during the 1st century BC. Roman Emperor Augustus added the entrance pylon around 30 BC. From the forecourt (largely ruined by floodwaters of the Nile) two doors lead to the hypostyle hall containing scenes relating to Haroeris on the left wall and Sobek on the right. The many columns are carved with the lotus or lily of upper Egypt and the papyrus of the Delta. A series of halls and vestibules lead to each sanctuary. In one of the halls we found bas reliefs depicting a birthing chair to ease delivery of babies and of medical tools, The carved stones of the temple were held together by sycamore (known for its natural oils) dovetails.

The path out of the temple complex leads to the Crocodile Museum, which houses a collection of mummified crocodiles and ancient carvings. We returned to the ship and sailed onwards to the city of Aswan. The cruise to Aswan gave us another opportunity to enjoy the view of the West Bank.

Before dinner, we were treated to a port talk and a documentary film about the move of Abu Simbel to save it from the rising waters of Lake Nasser and the worldwide Saving Nubia Campaign.

Posted in Egypt, Nile River Egypt | Tagged crocodile god Sobek, Crocodile Museum, Haroeris, Lake Nasser, or "Horus the Elder", Ptolemy XII, Temple of Kom Ombo | Leave a comment

DAY 11 February 05, 2023 – Depart from Luxor, Egypt

Posted on February 7, 2023 by admin

Very early in the morning to beat the crowds, we drove across the river to a range of low mountains. A series of rugged ravines in these hills are known today as the Valleys of the Kings and Queens. Part of the greater Theban Necropolis UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Valley of the Kings encompasses so far 63 tombs and burial chambers cut deep into rock cliffs over a 500-year span. 23 of those are royal tombs; the rest belong to queens, royal family members, and high officials.We explored some of these sacred chambers, and saw elaborate hieroglyphs and paintings that are almost as vivid now as when they were painted 3,000 years ago. We visited the tomb of Ramses IV, Ramses IX, Tutankhamun (the Boy King – including his mummy), RamsesV and VI (same tomb), a queen’s tomb. Tombs were plundered in antiquity and the only one found intact was that of Tutankhamun, discovered by Howard Carter in 1922. The tombs were cut out of natural rock in the limestone hills of Quran which is naturally shaped like a pyramid. Tombs were cut and decorated by skilled workers and artists who lived nearby in an area known today as Dier El Madina (called Ta Set Maat in ancient Egypt which means the place of truth). Most of the tombs were discovered in modern times after French expedition scholars published the 24 volumes of Description of Egypt (published in 19th century). Tombs are decorated with religious scenes about the journey to the afterlife. There are many mortuary temples as well on this west bank of the Nile where kings were worshipped after their death.

Making an alabaster vase

When we arrived we were the 4th bus, when we left there was a vast sea of buses! We made a quick stop at a family operated alabaster/basalt stoneware shop. The descendants of the young boy who alerted Howard Carter to the location to the entrance of King Tut’s burial chamber by stepping in a hole.

Our next stop was the terraced Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut (the Queen/King) whose Temple was built in the 18th dynasty by her architect Senenmut, who is buried nearby. It is an extraordinary monument which rises from the desert plain in a series of imposing terraces against a stark mountainous backdrop. It is decorated with scenes showing her divine birth, and an expedition to a foreign country called Punt, probably nowadays Somalia. Two of her granite obelisks had been transferred, one is still standing at Karnak. She ruled as a man, and was the longest-reigning female pharaoh.

On our way back to the ship, we stopped for a photo opportunity at the Memnon Colossi. They are 3400 year-old colossal statues of King Amenhotep III. Built of Quartzite sandstone, they originally stood in front of his mortuary temple.

Then finally lunch! 7 hours after we left for Kings Valley!

Today, the h/s Nebu set sail. As Luxor dwindled into the distance, we joined a procession of other cruise ships. This was the ideal opportunity to relax on the roof deck in 73 degree weather. As we passed tiny riverside villages and groves of date palms, we felt as if we’re witnessing scenes straight out of biblical stories. Glimpses of sand dunes and bare cliffs just beyond the slender strip of agricultural land attest to the life-giving importance of the Nile to this desert land

Posted in Cairo, Luxor | Tagged Luxor Temple, Luxor — the ancient Egyptian city of Thebes., NEBU | Leave a comment

DAY 10 February 04, 2023 – Luxor, Egypt

Posted on February 6, 2023 by admin

Fly to Luxor to embark the h/s Nebu

After a very early breakfast, we transferred to the Cairo airport at 5:00 am for our flight to Luxor — the ancient Egyptian city of Thebes.

Our stateroom aboard Nebu

Upon arrival, drove through lush farmlands to the Nile waterfront, where the Vantage-owned ship h/s Nebu waited for us to climb aboard for our Nile cruise. We were greeted with a taste of hibiscus juice which they drink either tart or sweet. We checked in to settle into our spacious suites with bed, dressing area, sitting area and bathroom. Before lunch, we explored the decks of the boat, ending up on the sundeck with its pool. Buffet lunch was served in the restaurant consisting of assorted fruits, vegetables, meats, and pasta. For a first this trip, ice cream found its way to the dessert buffet – mango ice cream.

After lunch, we had our safety briefing in the lounge and a discussion of the rest of the day’s activities. Then, we were treated to a documentary detailing egyptologists discoveries in the Valley of Kings including highly detailed graphic representations of the kings’ crossing of the Netherworld with the sun god, RA (basically when they take to their solar boat and travel with RA through the night to rebirth).

Since our bags had to be out in the hall at the hotel at 4 am, they gave us 2 hours to take a power nap and get ourselves together for a visit to the Luxor Temple complex.

The first pylon to the Luxor Temple

A walkway lined with rams-head sphinxes leads all the way from the Karnak complex to the 3,500-year-old Luxor Temple complex. Dedicated to the Theban Triad of Amun, Mut, and Khonsu, Luxor’s graceful inner courtyards are lined with Rameses colossi and graceful columns covered in carvings and hieroglyphics. It is an elegant example of Pharaonic temple architecture. It was largely completed by the 18th dynasty pharaoh Amenhotep III and added to during the reign of Ramses II in the 19th dynasty. The temple was further modified by later rulers, including Alexander the Great. Its design is remarkably coherent compared to its neighbor the sprawling complex of Karnak. During 3rd century AD it was occupied by a Roman camp and was subsequently abandoned. Over the centuries, it was engulfed in sand and silt and a village grew up within the temple walls. Then in 1881 archaeologist Gaston Maspero rediscovered the temple but before excavation could begin the village had to be removed. Only the Abu al-Haggag Mosque built by Arabs in 13th century was left intact standing high on the layers of silt accumulated over the years. Fronting the entrance to the temple, the gigantic first pylon is decorated with scenes of Ramses victories over the Hittites in the battle of Qadesh. Two enormous colossi of Ramses and a huge 82 foot high pink granite obelisk flank the gateway to the temple. The obelisk was one of a pair, the other was removed in the early 19th century and re-erected in Place de la Concorde in Paris, a gift from Egyptian ruler Mohammed Ali to the people of France. Beyond the first pylon lies the Court of Ramses II with Abu al-Haggag Mosque towering over the courtyard to the east. The height of the mosque over the stone floor is a visual indication of the depth of debris that once covered the entire temple. The western corner of the court incorporates an earlier barque shrine (to house the god’s sacred boats) dedicated to the Theban Triad. A double row of papyrus bud columns encircles the court, interspersed with huge standing colossi of Ramses II. More giant black granite statues of Ramses guard the entrance to the original part of the temple, which begins with the majestic colonnade of Amenhotep III with its avenue of 14 columns. The walls here were embellished during the reign of Tutankhamen and depict the Opet festival when the images of Amun, Mut, and Khonsu were taken in procession from Karnak to Luxor. The western wall shows the outward journey to Luxor and the eastern wall the return to Karnak. The colonnade leads to the Court of Amenhotep III noted for its double rows of papyrus columns, the best preserved in the temple. In 1989 work on the foundation led to discovery of 22 New Kingdom statues now on display in the Luxor Museum. The hypostyle hall on the southern side served as a vestibule to the main temple. It has 32 papyrus columns in 4 rows of eight bearing the later cartouches of Ramses II, Ramses IV, Ramses VI, and Seti I. The antechamber beyond was converted to a church by the Romans 4th century AD, its Pharaonic reliefs plastered over and covered with Christian paintings. A second smaller antechamber, the offerings chapel, leads on to another columned hall with the Sanctuary of the Sacred Barque in the center. It had been rebuilt by Alexander the Great. The birth room to the east has reliefs depicting the divine birth of Amenhotep III, intended to validate his claim to be the son of Amun. Behind the Sanctuary, another hall leads to a small damaged sanctuary that once housed a gold statue of Amun.

The Boat-NEBU

The custom-built h/s Nebu offers the finest and newest accommodations sailing the Nile today. With just 40 cabins, it was the most luxurious and exclusive way to sail this ancient waterway. We could cruise to legendary archaeological sites, relax on the sun deck, take a dip in the swimming pool, savor delectable cuisine, or relax in our spacious cabin. Staterooms offered private bathroom with bathtub and hair dryer, sitting area, individually controlled air-conditioning, minibar, safe, telephone, and TV with video channels.

Staterooms (counting suites): 40
4 Supplement-free solo cabins
A restaurant featuring sumptuous international cuisine
A bar/lounge, perfect for socializing or enjoying onboard entertainment
A sun deck and swimming pool on the top deck
Top-deck breakfast dining
A fitness center, actually a treadmill and a stationary bike
An elevator
Onboard spa
All staterooms feature a private bathroom and hairdryer, sitting area, large windows for optimal views, individual temperature controls, minibar, safe, telephone, and TV with video channels

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Posted in Cairo, Luxor | Tagged Amenhotep III, and Seti I, Egyptian ruler Mohammed Ali, NEBU, Ramses, Ramses II, Ramses IV, Ramses VI, Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, Valley of the Kings | Leave a comment

DAY 9 February 03, 2023 – Cairo, Egypt

Posted on February 6, 2023 by admin

Saqqara – the step pyramid

Before we delved into Cairo’s historic quarter and the story of Egypt’s predominant religion, we headed off to Saqqara or Sakkara Step Pyramid complex. Maged, our guide, shared a history of the development of pyramids including that the earliest indications of ancient Egyptians to build a pyramidal shaped tomb trace back to the 27th century BC. The step pyramid is the earliest structure in the world built entirely out of large stone blocks. It was built as the mortuary complex for King Djoser (Zoser) who was the founder of the Third Dynasty (Old Kingdom) by his architect Imhotep. Imhotep was a notable character in his own right, forward-thinking, ahead of his time, and a physician and high priest as well as architect. Up until this time, Kings were buried under a mound type structure called a mastaba. King Djoser added to his mortuary complex a court called Heb-Sed to be able to renew and extend his rule in the afterlife that included the buildings and features of his current everyday life. There is a colonnaded corridor of pillars leading to the Great South Court featuring a frieze of cobras. Maged even re-enacted the ritual where King Djoser would fight the ox (his High Priest in a mask) to assert his right to continue to rule. This complex was restored in modern times by the French archeologist and architect Jean-Phillip Lauer.

After a brief stop at the carpet school where we learned that each silk thread of native silk they use has 1200 strands of silk. The rugs were beautiful but none are coming home with us.

Inside the St Sergius Church

After lunch we visited Old Coptic Cairo walking the crowded streets and alleys and markets with all those off for Friday. First stop was the Church of St Sergius and St Bacchus famous for the widely held belief that the Holy Family sheltered in a cave here during their flight into Egypt. The cave is preserved as a crypt, but it can flood with underground water. Another cave can be viewed through opening in the floor.

Next we stopped at the gates of the Ben Ezra Synagogue for a briefing by Maged. It is known as the site where some 400,000 medieval secular and sacred manuscripts were found in the 19th century. Jewish history in Egypt dates back to the era of the Old Testament and the stories of Moses and persecution by the pharaohs. After the Roman expulsion of Jews from Jerusalem in the 1st century AD, Alexandria became the world’s most important center of Judaism. As recently as the 20th century, the Jewish community in Egypt remained significant and prominent. This, of course, changed drastically with the creation of Israel in 1948. Those Jews who had not already left Egypt were forced out when Egypt and Israel went to war. Though legend link Ben Ezra Synagogue with Moses, it was in fact a former church built in the 8th century. About 300 years later it was destroyed and the the site and its ruins were given to Rabbi Ben Ezra, a 12th century rabbi of Jerusalem. Repairs in the 19th century unearthed Hebrew manuscripts from the treasury. In Egypt any paper bearing the name of God had to be preserved. This resulted in a legacy of thousands of documents dating largely to the 11th century providing a detailed chronicle of life in medieval Cairo.

Suspended or Hanging Church end of 4th century

Then, our tour continued with a trip to the Hanging Church, one of the oldest churches in Egypt, so called because it was built on top of the Water Gate of the old Roman Fortress of Babylon. Built as early as the 4th century AD, it was destroyed and rebuilt in the 11th century. The facade surmounted by its distinctive twin bell towers is a relatively recent addition dating from only the 19th century. The sanctuary screen is carved from cedar wood and delicately inlaid with ivory and screens that shields the main altar from view. It is considered the finest of its kind in Egypt. The marble pulpit rests on 13 columns representing Christ and his disciples. In the interior, three barrel vaulted roofs are supported on columns with Corinthian capitals, indicating they were recycled from earlier structures. The Roman Towers belonged to the southwestern bastion of the original Roman fortress of Babylon and date from the 1st century AD.

Central dome with its four quarter domes and gorgeous chandelier

Our tour of Islamic Cairo, featuring visits to the fortified, medieval Citadel (home to Egypt’s rulers for almost 700 years) and the Great Mosque of Muhammad Ali (dating to the 19th century). The grand, domed mosque is built in the Ottoman style and is partly clad in translucent alabaster, hence its nickname “the Alabaster Mosque.” The ornate clock in the courtyard near the entrance to the mosque was a gift from King Louis-Phillipe of France in exchange for the obelisk in Place de la Concorde in Paris. The clock was damaged on delivery and has yet to be repaired. Mohammed Ali is regarded as the founder of modern Egypt. When he came to power in 1805, Egypt was a backwater province of the Ottoman Empire. By the time he died in 1849, Egypt was a regional superpower. His body rests in a marble tomb to the right near the entrance to the vast space of the prayer hall. We had our phone’s capture the panoramic views of the city from the Citadel’s hilltop site, where, on our clear day there, we could see all the way across to the Pyramids.

An insightful lecture by Maged on Islam helped our understanding of its history and culture

Posted in Cairo | Tagged Alexandria, Ben Ezra Synagogue, Citadel of Cairo, Hanging Church, Islamic Cairo, Islamic Cairo and the Old Town, King Djoser, Old Coptic Cairo, Ottoman Empire, Sakkara, Sakkara Step Pyramid, Saqqara | Leave a comment

DAY 8 February 02, 2023

Posted on February 2, 2023 by admin

The photos from today speak for themselves! Especially the Giza Pyramids and the Sphinx.

Entrance to the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization

But first, we stopped at the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization. It is where the 16th-11th century Royal Mummies were moved in the Celebration YouTube we posted yesterday. It also focuses on Egyptian civilization and cultural development through historical times. Built with joint funding by UNESCO, it was started in 2002 and completed in 2017, The additional hall to display the Royal Mummies was added in 2021. Photography was not allowed in the Hall of Royal Mummies and silence and respect for the deceased is expected. Each mummy was displayed out of its sarcophagus and along with its sarcophagus. Each had signage describing the name, parents if known, dates of reign, accomplishments of the individual and what had been determined about their physical attributes and cause of death, including bone cancer, gangrene, even disabilities like poliomyelitis. The exhibit is very dark and temperature controlled with all the latest technology.

Afterwards we entered those exhibits tracking the development of agriculture, tools, metals, weapons, jewelry and life along the Nile. Then we moved on to the Hall of Textiles to see the development of clothing, weaving, embroidery, etc.

Mike in front of the Great Pyramid

Finally we started an exciting excursion to the Giza Plateau in the southwest outskirts of Cairo, to see Egypt’s iconic Pyramids of Giza and the Great Sphinx. Constructed as tombs for the pharaohs Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure, each of the three stone structures was built by hand using finely tuned ancient techniques that remain a mystery today. They were built by successive generations of the same family and each began construction on their own pyramid when they assumed control so that their burial chamber would be ready when each needed it. The Great Pyramid of Giza — or Pyramid of Khufu — is the oldest and largest of the three, dating back to 2580–2560 BC and reaching 455 feet high. Each pyramid was part of a complex consisting of a mortuary temple, valley temple, causeway connecting the two temples, boat pits surrounding the main pyramid, and smaller, subsidiary pyramids for Queens. The three temples are surrounded by mastaba (Arabic word for bench) shaped tombs for other family members and high officials.

Since public schools are on winter break, the scene was chaotic with tourists, families with children, and vendors hawking “authentic Egyptian goods” from China. We stopped first to get close to the great pyramid, where Maget gave us discussion on the construction of the pyramids. Construction is currently establishing a new entrance and visitor center. Then we moved on to a panoramic overlook where we could view all three. Of course, camel rides were available!

Dining Beduoin Style at 9 Pyramid Lounge

Beduoin style dining

We ate lunch at the 9 Pyramid Lounge of traditional appetizers, grilled chicken, rice, and vegetables, and a rice pudding type dessert. From this location, we could see 9 pyramids: the three large pyramids, three smaller to the left, and three smaller in a row on the right.

The Sphinx

Located nearby on this otherworldly archaeological site, you’ll also see the mystical Sphinx, a huge limestone statue of a reclining lion with the head of the pharaoh Khafre, sited so that, through eternity, he can guard his family cemetery. It is actually the form of a solar god called Horemahket.

Tonight’s dinner will be aboard a stationery restaurant boat on the Nile

Posted in Egypt, Giza | Tagged and Menkaure, Giza Pyramids, Khafre, King Djoser, pharaohs Khufu, Pyramids, Step Pyramid, the Sphinx | Leave a comment

DAY 7 February 01, 2023 – Egypt

Posted on February 1, 2023 by admin

Following a buffet breakfast at the hotel, our first full day in Egypt started with a 2 hour briefing to meet our guides and our fellow travelers, to gain an overview of our activities in Cairo, and a bit of Egyptian history in addition to housekeeping and logistics details like dividing us into 2 groups of about 30. Maged (we call him Magic) ended up being our guide and even gave us homework about the three kingdoms (periods of unity and power: old, middle, and new kingdom), made up of 30 dynasties, covering 3000 years before we head over to the Grand Egyptian Museum after lunch.

The Grand Egyptian Museum took the better part of the remainder of the day. This vast state-of-the-art repository, the largest archaeological museum in the world, is the home of the country’s most valuable antiquities, including the iconic, gold funerary mask and 5,000 other items uncovered in the tomb of the boy-king Tutankhamun. It was the concept of French architect and archeologist, Auguste Marietta. He founded the Egyptian Antiquities department in 1858 and was its first director with the goal of eventually building a museum to house the artifacts being discovered across Egypt. It opened in 1902, designed by French architect, Marcel Dourgnon, in a Neo-classical style. It was built by the Italian company Garozzo Zaffarani. Since the museum houses the largest collection of Pharonic antiquities, we saw artifacts fro the Predynastic Period to the Greco-Roman era. The museum has two floors: the ground floor has items arranged in chronological order while first floor items are grouped according to subject or material.

Our homework studies had covered the unification of Upper and Lower Egypt by Upper Egypt King Mena through the defeat of lower Egyptians, considered by historians as the beginning of Ancient Egyptian History, about the time that making paper out of papyrus was discovered. The periods of unity were disrupted by periods of disorder (intermediate periods of foreign occupation or civil wars) which brought about the collapse of the kingdoms. We saw various representative artifacts from each kingdom including the golden mask of King Tutankhamoun, as well as his throne and footstool. We also saw the best preserved mummies, which had not been transported to the Museum of Egyptian Civilization.

Afterwards more homework in preparation for tomorrow’s visit to the Museum of Egyptian Civilization. This video:

Rădăuți Included Feature:

Grand Egyptian Museum visit

Posted in Cairo, Egypt | Tagged Grand Egyptian Museum, pharaohs Golden Parade, Tutankhamun | Leave a comment

Day 6: Bethlehem to Cairo, Egypt

Posted on February 1, 2023 by admin

It was raining today, off and on torrential downpours. We borrowed an umbrella from the hotel room to stave off some of the rain. We climbed aboard our bus and headed to Bethlehem. On the ride toward Bethlehem, Michal filled us in on the history of Jews in area and the migration of authority over time. Once we approached the border of the Palestinian Authority, as an Israeli, she left us and went back to Jerusalem.

In Bethlehem, the Church of the Nativity

On the other side of the line, Johnny, a Greek Orthodox Christian, boarded our bus to serve as our guide. We drove through a small town known as Shepherd’s Valley to Bethlehem. Once in Bethlehem, we visited the Church of the Nativity, built atop the grotto where Jesus was born. This is the oldest site continuously used as a Christian place of worship. The writings of St Justin Martyr around AD 160 first identified this site as Jesus’ birthplace. In 326, emperor Constantine ordered a church to be built and in 530 it was rebuilt by Justinian. The crusaders redecorated the interior, but much of the marble was looted in Ottoman times. In 1852, shared custody of the church was granted to the Roman Catholic, Armenian and Greek Orthodox churches.

Touching the silver star marking the place where Jesus was born. The manger however was not available since the Catholics were celebrating Mass

The exact spot where Jesus was born is supposedly marked by a 14-point silver star. The steps down to the grotto were fairly precarious, so Mike stayed topside. I knelt and touched the silver star for a blessing. The differences, between each of the responsible religious organizations, are very marked. The Greek Orthodox is very opulent, over the top, highly decorated. The Catholics control the manger area and were conducting a service so photos not allowed. Subsequent to the partition of the space, the Catholics built an entire church connected to the Church of the Nativity. The Armenian area was more similar to the Greek Orthodox but a bit simpler. While we waited to descend into the grotto to view the birthplace, the Greek Orthodox monks were cleaning their sanctuary with mops and brooms having just concluded a service.

The pope mobile left in Bethlehem under the care of the Franciscans after Pope Francis’ visit

From there, we popped into a small cafe for coffee and to catch sight of the “popemobile” in a plexiglass specially built enclosure . It was left here when Pope Francis came for a visit. Because of the rain it was all steamed up, but I took a photo anyway.

Johnny escorted us to the Shepherd’s Tent, a restaurant overlooking Shepherd’s Valley, for lunch. He left us there to tend to a leaking roof at home. Our driver, Surya, drove us back through the border to Jerusalem to the hotel to pick up our bags and rejoin Michal.

3 more Chagall windows in the synagogue in the Haddassah. Joseph is the one in the center.

She was escorted by her son, Jonathan, to visit the stained glass windows of Marc Chagall in the Hadassah Hospital synagogue. Created by Marc Chagall in 1960-61, depict the 12 tribes of Israel; Joseph was my favorite for its bright colors. They were installed in 1962. Tradition associates each of the 12 tribes with a symbol, a precious stone, and a social role. These elements are all represented in Chagall’s imagery and choice of color. During the six days war, several were damaged and replaced graciously by Chagall. It took him a year and a half to complete the repair project. He always considered these windows his gift to the Jewish people.

We left Hadassah and headed to Tel Aviv to catch our flight to Cairo. We had no issues with security but our flight was delayed a bit. We finally boarded, taxied out to the runway and a thunderstorm with lightening struck. We are placed on a ground hold until it was safe to take off. We took off very late, arrived in Cairo a little after 10 pm, and arrived at our hotel the Nile Ritz-Carlton around 11 pm. Upon check-in we found dinner waiting for us in our room

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Day 5 Jan 30 -Jerusalem

Posted on January 30, 2023 by admin

Men gathering at the Western Wall. The smaller stones sat the top are later additions, the oldest are lower, huge blocks.

We began our day by entering the gate in the wall closest to the Western Wall. After passing through security, Michal gave us instructions about how to proceed. This particular area is under the control of the Orthodox Jews. We had written notes/prayers on slips of paper, folded them into tiny squares. Women went to the right, separated from men by a wall. We each approached the wall, placed our hands on the wall, said a little prayer, and inserted our prayer note in a crack in the wall. Next door in the men’s section the same thing was going on. Since it was Monday, 13 year old boys and their families were coming to celebrate their bar mitzvah and read for the first time from the torah – with the women on one side of the wall and the men on the other. The women, dressed to the nines, for this special occasion stood on benches to peer over the fence.

Dome of the Rock on Temple Mount

Next we proceeded to Temple Mount, venerated as a holy site for thousands of years by Jews, Christians, and Muslims alike to go through security again. Gazed on the magnificent golden Dome of the Rock under which, according to Jewish tradition, lies the foundation stone of the world, and where Abraham almost sacrificed his son Isaac. The Dome of the Rock was built in AD 688-91 and was one of the first and viewed as the greatest achievements of Islamic architecture. It was intended to proclaim the superiority of Islam and provide an Islamic focal point in the Holy City. The dome was originally copper but is now covered with gold leaf thanks to the support of the late King Hussein of Jordan to get on the good side of Muslims world-wide. It took 176 pounds of 24-carat gold to re-gild the dome in 1993. Since we were not Muslim, we were not permitted to enter either building. The Dome of the Rock is supposedly the spot where Mohammed rose into heaven. Michal referred to the Temple Mount as the belly button of religion. We did walk all around the Dome of the Rock and we spent some time in front of El-Aqsa Mosque learning more about the Muslim faith. One interesting note was that Muslim women pray at the Dome of the Rock, while Muslim men pray at the El-Aqsa Mosque.

Crown of Thorns in the ceiling of the Church of the Flagellation along the Via Dolorosa

We strolled by the entrance to the Cotton Market to leave by a northern gate to reach the Old City, we followed the Via Dolorosa (which traditionally traces the last steps of Jesus from where He was tried to Calvary where He was crucified) west to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre on Calvary, where we saw the two holiest sites in Christianity: the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and the empty tomb from where He is said to have resurrected. Our trail started at the Monastery of the Flagellation which is under the control of Franciscans and climbed up on steep streets to Calvary. The Via Dolorosa’s path has changed over the years but many pilgrims walk the route, pausing at the Stations of the Cross. On Fridays, the Franciscans lead a procession along the route. The 14th Station is the Holy Sepulchre itself. The first basilica of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre was built by Roman emperor Constantine between AD 326 and 335 at the urging of his mother St Helena. It was destroyed by Fatimid sultan Hakim in 1009, rebuilt in the 1040s, enlarged by crusaders in 12th century, and damaged during a fire in 1808 and an earthquake in 1927, requiring extensive repairs. At the heart of the church, a marble shrine known as the Aedicule encloses the place where Jesus’ body was laid to rest after his death. The Stone of Unction commemorates the anointing and wrapping of Jesus’ body. We saw many people placing gifts on the stone to receive a blessing of the gifts they want to give to others, thereby transferring the blessing to gift recepient. This church is under control of Greek Orthodox, Catholics, Armenians, Copts, Ethiopians and Syrians. They have physically taken control of specific areas and we saw various sects taking part in various customs and focus. The church actually houses the 10th to 14th Stations of the cross: Golgotha/Calvary where Jesus is stripped of His garments, Jesus is nailed to the Cross, Jesus dies on the Cross, Jesus taken down from Cross, and Jesus is laid in the tomb.

After a traditional falafel lunch, we continued on, exploring the Christian Quarter, the Arabic Quarter, and the Armenian Quarter. Each of the quarters had several Roman ruins.

Tower of David, also Herod’s palace

Off we go to visit the Tower of David, also known as Jerusalem’s Citadel. The archaeological ruins date back 2,700 years. The museum uses multimedia (maps, holograms, and models) to present 4,000 years of Jerusalem’s history. A walk around the ramparts offered spectacular views of the city. There is a lot to see here, and they have designated three routes: observation route runs along ramparts and has best views of Jerusalem; the excavation route concentrates on the archaeological remains in the courtyard; the exhibition route takes in the displays and dioramas tracing the city’s history.

The travel group in Jerusalem.

Posted in Jerusalem | Tagged and the Armenian Quarter, Christian Quarter, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Temple Mount, the Arabic Quarter, Tower of David | Leave a comment

Day 4 January 29 – Jerusalem

Posted on January 29, 2023 by admin

Mount Herzl’s Memorial: the National memorial for all soldiers who gave their lives establishing and defending the State of Israel

On our way to the museums, we passed “bureaucratic hill” where the Knesset, Israel’s Parliament, meets – which provoked a bit of discussion about Israeli politics. Mount Herzl is a high hill named after Theodor Herzl, the man considered to be the founder of Zionism, who is buried at the top of the hill. The slopes are a large cemetery, similar to our Arlington National Cemetery, where Israel’s military can be buried in the main military cemetery. The entrance was filled with young military persons out for a day of learning about their history.

We visited the Yad Vashem, Jerusalem’s official museum of the holocaust remembrance. Its very name, taken from Isaiah, means a memorial and a name. It is an archive, research institute, and a monument to perpetuate the memory of the more than six million Jews who were killed during the holocaust. The entrance is along the Avenue of the Righteous Among Nations, which is lined with plaques bearing the names of 23,000 Gentiles who put their own lives at risk by helping Jews, including Oskar Schindler.

The dome in the Hall of Remembrance in Yad Vashem

Photos were not allowed inside the museum. Exhibits in the museum include 2,500 personal items donated by survivors. The Hall of Remembrance bears the names of 21 of the main death camps on flat, black basalt slabs. At the center is a casket of ashes from the cremation ovens. Above it is an eternal flame. The Hall of Names records the names of all those Jews who perished along with as much biographical detail as possible. We were guided by David, a museum guide originally from Baltimore, now living in Israel. Our tour lasted about 2 ½ hours as he recounted stories of the history of the rise of Hitler, Nazism, and the development of the “final solution to the Jewish problem.” Visitors are expected to dress appropriately – no shorts or miniskirts!

We had lunch at the restaurant at Yad Vashem, called Modern. We were served a first course of traditional Middle Eastern nibbles: hummus, quinoa, beets, roasted vegetables, pita quarters. The second course was chicken schawarma (dish that finds it roots in the Ottoman Empire) and an Arabic dish called upside down (eggplant, rice, vegetables, and shredded beef) – all served family-style.

After lunch we visited the Israel Museum one of the world’s leading museums of art and archaeology, where some of the Dead Sea Scrolls are displayed in the incomparable Shrine of the Book. The design of the shrine was inspired by the lids of the jars in which the scrolls were found. The white dome and the black basalt wall depict the battle between the Sons of Darkness and the Sons of Light described in the War Scroll. The jets of water symbolize the ritual purity of the community that wrote the scrolls.

The model of old 2nd Temple era Jerusalem

Before we entered the museum, Michal gave us a history lesson as we viewed the Second Temple Model, which depicts the city in Jesus’ time. It is now in a open air location and easy to walk around and to view the model from many angles.

After our history lesson we entered the Book of the Shrine to see Dead Sea Scrolls – in 1947, a Bedouin shepherd discovered jars containing seven ancient scrolls. Over the next 20 years, fragments of some 800 more were found in 11 caves and the nearby settlement of Qumran was uncovered. The scrolls date to between the 3rd century BC and AD68, with some containing the oldest existing versions of biblical scripture. The main chamber under the dome, reached after passing through a long passageway with an exhibition on life in Qumran, contains a facsimile of the Great Isaiah Scroll, the only biblical book that survived in its entirety. Its 66 chapters were written on strips of parchment, sewn together to be 23 feet. one of the display cases contained part of the real scroll.

On the Shrine’s lower level, is the 10th century Aleppo Codex, the oldest complete Bible in Hebrew.

We had some time remains so we spent about 30-minutes in the archeological section, and saw of the three Bronze busts of Emperor Hadrian (one is in the Louvre, and one in the London Museum), we Also saw Herod’s Tomb and a burial box with an ankle bone with a spike through it indicating additional crucifixions were more common than thought.