http://wendykeithdesigns.co.uk/shooting_stockings/possum-merino/ On our last day before we check in our car, we took Simon’s advice and routed a loop northwest to include Gramat, Autoire, Loubressac, and Castelnau-Bretenoux. Frances, our GPS, took us over two-lane roads this time – at least as far as Gramat, a cute little town nestled in the countryside. Â
The day had started out with sun, but a mist on the hills back at Puy Calvel, giving the farmland behind the gite a magical air. By the time we were on the road, we were covered by clouds and the air was heavy in mist. Optimistically, we hung clothes out to dry and hoped the sun would break through.
By the time we reached Autoire, a medieval village known for its waterfall flanked by limestone cliffs, visibility was very reduced and it began to mist. Undaunted, we parked below the town, walked through Autoire, admiring the residents’ flowers and the town square with its fountain.
We set off on the 1.4 km trek through the woods, over a rocky trail with mud, wet leaves and moss, for the waterfall.  Over halfway we passed a sign that advised us we were entering a beautiful area but dangerous, unaccompanied children under 10 were not permitted, we should take care for our own security. We pressed on beyond that point. We turned back with less than .2 km to go because the path became too treacherous to navigate – on the expected return (down slippery steep rocks covered with leaves and mud).
Back through town toward the car, we stopped at a wine store run by Benjamin Frayez, whose sommeliere was his girlfriend Aveline Blanchard. He explained the differences between French Malbecs and Argentinean – or at least, why he thinks they are better. For one, there are more vintners – hence more styles and the vines are older. We ended up buying Muscadelle (white), rose made out of Malbec, and a pure Malbec from 2005, that Mike and Pat liked the best so far. We hauled our wine back to the car just as the clock was striking noon. We set back up the hill to the pull off nearer the falls to check them out.
Then off to Loubressac to find a place for lunch. The restaurant Lou Cantou was open, but before we arrived a bus load had been seated, as well as a table of 14/16 workmen. The volume in the restaurant was so loud, we decided to search town for another spot.
The town is beautiful, with sweeping views of the Cere, Bave, and Dordogne valleys. No other spots were open so we went back to Lou Cantou with its panoramic views – but the terrasse was closed. The menu du jour was tabouli, shoulder of lamb, potatoes and an apple tart. Lamb two days in a row was too much for some, ( Mike and Shoe who can never get enough lamb) who elected to have filet of trout accompanied by potatoes, haricot verts, ratatouille, and grilled stuffed tomato. Sandy and Lou were convinced to order profiteroles with chocolate sauce – their very first. Lunch was wonderful and we were glad we had decided to return.
We headed off down the road toward Castelnau-Bretenoux. On the way, we passed a herd of sheep grazing beside the road. When we stopped to take a photo, they all noticed us and decided to come over to the fence and check us out. We laughed as they crowded over as if to say “take my picture, take my picture, please!”
Castelnau-Bretenoux has a fortress built on a hill. The fortress was reddish in color and very clearly military in heritage. It was built in the 12th century by the barons of Castelnau. After a quick loop around the castle, restored in the 19th century with funds provided by tenor, Jean Moulierat, we headed back to Puy Clavel, with Frances, our GPS taking us past farmhouses, through fields of cows and even a donkey, over tiny one lane roads. Once at Gramat, we retraced our path back to the gite.
So far, we have clocked 2,729.6 km since we left Nice on Saturday, September 4. Frances, our GPS, calculated we spent over 53 hours moving, average speed 51.3 km/h, 75 1/2 hours on the road, and over 22 hours stopped. However, Frances was not operating all the time – but this is as close as we could approximate!
We had hoped to have internet access the past two weeks but it has been intermittent at best. Hopefully, you realized that we were keeping up with posts – just not able to upload them. Every chance we had, we uploaded previous posts. Tomorrow, we check into our boat on the Lot River and we don’t expect to have internet access until a week from tomorrow when we arrive in Paris. So, we’re going dark!
A Â Bientot until Paris!
Our hosts at Puy Calvel: Simon and Hillary