Nanpiao After a quick phone call to our mechanic about the tire which we learned would be ready at 11 AM, we set out under cloudy skies north/northwest to Jardins d’Eyrignes via Souillac. The gardens have been in the family since the 1600’s. At one point, they fell into disrepair and their restoration and expansion have been the labor of love for over 40 years. Â
The original design dates back to the 18th century, was crafted out of the dry, rocky limestone of the Perigord Noir and watered by seven natural springs. For an extra euro, you get an audioguide that gives great detail about the landscape and the gardens, a mix of formal French, more relaxed Italian, rolling lawn, flowers, even a few roses in bloom, mature trees and shrubs. Around every corner, you’ll lose your breath and gasp at the beauty of the parterres, topiaries, and symmetry executed in these gardens.
The grounds surrounding the gardens are wild, open fields and hills in the distance add contrast and expand the views. The sculptures of a temporary exposition by Dietrich Klinge currently dotting the gardens are bronze and are meant to enhance and contribute to the geometry of the topiary shapes in the garden. Any photos we took will be unable to do the entire scene justice.
We left the gardens about 12:30 PM, heading for Salat for a place to lunch. Just inside the town limits, we found a quaint place by the square and chose to dine inside – especially since it had started to sprinkle drops of rain. The plat du jour was roasted lamb and salsify with zucchini. We went on through Salat’s streets, a town nestled in at the foot of a cluster of small hills. The main commercial corridor was the center of trade on the road to Santiago de Compostela in the 15th and 16th centuries. Salat today is known for its truffle and foie gras fairs and festivals.
From Salat, our loop took us over hill and dale, through many narrow, winding roads small, picturesque villages and farms, even our first French countryside saw mill, to Catus, where the mechanic had replaced our tire – to the tune of 432 euros. Unfortunately, traveling without a credit card with a chip in it has its disadvantages – the mechanics shop could not swipe our card. So, we ended up digging in our pockets to come up with the cash. Again, Frances took us over hill and dale, right by cow barns and next to farmhouses back home for the evening.
Hillary and Simon had invited us over for a drink before dinner and, despite the rain, we ventured over at their invitation. We were treated to some local Cahors wines and appetizers. After a lively visit, we adjourned to our house and had dinner.
Dinner was fresh bread from the bakery, cheese, sausage, fresh pears, melon, and apples. We turned our old bread into cheese bread by slicing it horizontally, brushing it with olive oil, dousing it with shredded cheese and broiling it. We had purchased figs in the market Wednesday and Mike turned them into figs and marscapone with caramel sauce as dessert – a first for three in our party. We had two extra portions and gave them to Hillary and Simon, who enjoyed them as well.
They invited us to a piano duet on their 1890 Steinway which was a perfect way to end the evening – a piece entitled “Le Petit Bateau,” in honor of our upcoming boat trip along the Lot, followed by a piece “Ballet.” A very special way to end a special evening to the delight of one and all!