Peche Merle, St-Cirq LaPopie, Wineries

Dandeli We started out this brisk, bright morning for Peche-Merle and got there in time for the first tour of the day at 9:45 AM.  This part of the Lot area of Dordogne must be known for its narrow, windy roads.  Meeting campers and buses is quite an experience.   Continue reading

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Market Day in LaBastide, Rocamadour, and Figeac

Tiko Morning dawned bright and sunny, slightly cool.

Our vehicle in the road in front of our gite: our car barely fits in this wide, wide road

Simon mentioned to us that every other Monday, and today is our lucky day! that a quaint market takes place in LaBastide’s town square.  He told us that the best parking would be by the church, that traffic would be altered through town, and then gave us detailed access and parking directions to Rocamadour.   Continue reading

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Rest Day in Puycalvel

We woke to a mist surrounding the entire countryside and our little stone house with its terraces.  Visibility was very, very limited. But in a couple of hours, the sun was peeking through and had burned off the mist, warming the stone terraces and the pool and opening up the views again. Mike prepared a lunch of omelets (Comte cheese, onions and mushrooms).

The entrance to our gite: the house we rented for the week from Hillary and Simon

The lovely house we called home in Puy Calvel

We learned a little about the area from Hillary and Simon and why they chose this spot 21 years ago. A short walk down the lane followed in the early afternoon. The group minus, Pat, made the decision to follow the undefined route from Puy Calvel to Lamothe Cassel a part of the three towns that make to the microscopic community here in the mid-Pyrnees.  We walked about 300 yards from the house in an easterly direction along the road and past the castle (acutally a ramshackled house that Dutchman hs been living in and restoring since the mid-sixties when the area was popular with and inhabited by hippies.  The road turned to a path and rambled throught the forest dropping sharply at about a 10% slope.  Of course, it occured to us that we would have to walk back up, if we did not reach Lamothe Cassel!  The shade of the forest helped to keep us cool, as we continued along the old road/path always keeping to the left as instructed by Hillary.

Lou finds a snail - but only one! Not enough for dinner!

The old wash trough uncovered on our walk

At the bottom of the long an winding path we came across and old wash trough where the women of the past did their laundry, fed by a spring even in the this present day.  In addition about 25-30 feet up the slope was an old spring house where the town would have stored their butter, and other perishable foods.  We then had two choices, continue on the road up the hill or (left) across an open field of beautiful green grass about 9-inches tall.  The group was getting a bit nervious about getting lost so we sent Lou ahead to check the road up hill. At this time we had been walking for about 35-minutes.  Lou returned with a good size snail, too late for the omelets.  The decision was made to retreat back to PuyCalvel, it took us about 50-minutes to return to the house, the walk was a bit more of a challenge up the hill on the return.  All returned in good spirits with a better understanding of the area, and sat around the pool.

The pool at our gite

Lavender at the end of its blooming season beside the stone terrace at our gite

Later, we indulged in Sandy’s appetizer of sundried tomatoes and goat cheese while on the rear terrace.  Mike began dinner: roast chicken, potatoes, and sauteed cabbage. All in all a great vacation day, especially since we were treated to a little bit of Simon’s singing through the walls.

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Onward to Dordogne, Puyclavel

We packed up early and met Christine shortly before 9:30 to give her the key to our lovely, spacious gite in St Siffret. We pulled up the car by the gite gate to pack four of our suitcases on the roof of our car using our new ceintures and rope from the BricoMarche to make more room in the compartment.   Continue reading

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The Camargue

We took the back roads to the Camargue, a flat, scarcely inhabited wetland with a huge natural preserve area, bordering the Mediterranean Sea. The Camargue is roughly southeast of Avignon. Continue reading

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Chateauneuf-du-Papes and Orange

It’s Thursday and after a breakfast of scrambled eggs or omelet, toast, and coffee, we set out for Chateauneuf-du-Papes, one of the best known of the Cotes-du-Rhone wines.  Along the way we passed down several roads lined on both sides by France’s well-known plane trees.   Continue reading

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Pont du Gard and Nimes

It rained agin last night, but the morning was bright and clear under sunny skies! We headed off to Pont du Gard, the aqueduct built by the Romans to carry water to Uzes.   Continue reading

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Les Gorges de Verdun

After breakfast, we headed across Provence to the Gorges du Verdun, or the Grand Canyon of Europe, one of the most spectacular natural phenomena of France. Mike, at the helm, did a great job navigating its mountainous path and its hairpin turns with narrow roads, barely two cars wide, with its sheer drop offs. Passing by Lac de Ste-Croix, we continued our treacherous path with fabulous views. We stopped at Gerous-les-Bains for lunch, a picturesque town with wonderful flower displays. Geroux is known for its thermal waters and baths which were built by the Romans in the 1st century. The plats du jour were pork chop or calf’s liver, we made our selections and enjoyed our meal.  We followed the tortuous, but scenic route, along the north edge of the gorges to Castellane where we split off and headed, on a much wider road, toward Digne-les-Bains.

Perched high on a peak above Castellane, was a church, named Notre-Dame-du-Roc, built in 1703, reached by a strenuous 30-minute walk from the town. Castellane is one of the main entrance points into the Gorges, known for its river activities like rafting, hiking, and climbing along the Verdun River. At Castellane, we stopped for postcards, a quick break, and baguettes and dessert for dinner.

Digne-les-Bains is the capital of the region and has been a spa town since Roman times. We picked up the high speed road and headed back to St Sifert, past Les Penitants des Mees, a rock formation of a series of columns, more than 300 feet high and over one mile long. Legend has it that the rock formation is a procession of monks who were banished by St Donat since they had developed a fancy for Moorish beauties.  We arrived back at our gite in St Siffert after dark for the first time, vowing never to do that again, since the approach to the gite is uphill through steep, narrow passages and parking is somewaht difficult. Just after we arrived, the sprinkles started.

Over a dinner of cold cuts, pate, fruit, bread and wine, we vowed that tomorrow would be a less intense drive. The sprinkles evolved to showers, then full-blown thunderstorms, all night long.

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Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Avignon, Wine-Tasting in Tavel

After a morning breakfast in our gite, we headed off down the hill, through the vineyards and olive groves toward L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with Lou at the wheel.  On the way, just outside St Sifert we saw hunters and their dogs at the edge of the road spaced at about 15 or 20 yards all along the road – nobody had bagged anything yet.

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From Nice to Uzes/St Siffret

After a quick bite at the local bakery, we loaded up the car – a feat in itself. We are six adults and six suitcases and our handbags/carry-ons – in addition to a seat not being used, but occupying premium space.   Continue reading

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